Shooting mode for weddings actual day


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Suddenly this phrase comes to mind:

When in doubt. JUST ZHUA. :bsmilie:
 

Suddenly this phrase comes to mind:

When in doubt. JUST ZHUA. :bsmilie:

But must remember to have sufficient ammo... and dun overheat the barrel... :bsmilie:
GPMG tactics come into mind here....
 

Suddenly this phrase comes to mind:

When in doubt. JUST ZHUA. :bsmilie:

I dun really agree with machine-gun shooting mode.

If the shoots are bad, no matter how many shots the photographers fired, all will end up in trash and wasted the shutter count.

Having many shots will only just help to capture any possible missing actions.
 

I dun really agree with machine-gun shooting mode.

If the shoots are bad, no matter how many shots the photographers fired, all will end up in trash and wasted the shutter count.

Having many shots will only just help to capture any possible missing actions.

This is more of a paparazzi tactic, squeeze and hope for a few good ones. With a good buffer, high fps rate, you can easily get 10 shots in a quick burst. Now, only if the flash can keep up. Normally it doesn't. SO, the next best thing, 2 shot bursts.

You may get some nice coverage this way, you may miss the important ones. This is up to the photog to decide on tactics.
 

btw, 2.3k is raw plus jpg right?

yes.2.3k is raw + some jpeg.i shoot the pegs when i know i wont even bother to pp it.

zac, shu,
i agree.machine gun is not the way to go.but i rather have some good candids 'at the moment' pics at the expense of exposure, composition or 'whatever bad points'.
this is because i can easily do cropping later.

i was on continuous low shots mode, which can give me about 3 frames per sec.

my quantum turbo allows 5 frames continuous with flash output.anything more than 5, the batt cant charge it up fast enough.
really love my quantum.:heart:

btw:i've edited paul's pic in my previous post.dont talk to me like i'm a easy pushover.i guess in a forum like this, mutual respect is the way to go.
 

But must remember to have sufficient ammo... and dun overheat the barrel... :bsmilie:
GPMG tactics come into mind here....

actually zac, nikon should invent a bracket to hold 2 flashes over the dslr.so that in situations like this, maybe the flash can alternate fire?

1st it might help to get more frames per second all with flashes,

2nd, will it save the flash from exploding?:dunno:

just a tot
 

actually zac, nikon should invent a bracket to hold 2 flashes over the dslr.so that in situations like this, maybe the flash can alternate fire?

1st it might help to get more frames per second all with flashes,

2nd, will it save the flash from exploding?:dunno:

just a tot

2 flash ? u very strong hor :bsmilie:

Think u dont need to burst shot to get wat u want bah? maybe can ask those working pro, do they burst often.

if like that, might as well go into videography. no need burst, scared flash spoil. scare sync not fast enuff
 

2 flash ? u very strong hor :bsmilie:

Think u dont need to burst shot to get wat u want bah? maybe can ask those working pro, do they burst often.

heard of something called monopod?

i dont care how pro shoots since i'm not pro and will never be.
 

heard of something called monopod?

i dont care how pro shoots since i'm not pro and will never be.

monopod... lol. maybe u try liao let us know if it help or slow u down even more.

with monopod, I think my movement will be slow down by it for sure.

u might as well get afew more light stand, get afew more flash,get the SU800, put the flash stationary. ah damn.so mafan, might as well ask them brighten up the whole place :bsmilie:
 

anyway, let's get back to topic.

i noticed shooting manual mode is good.cos exposures are consistent.
however, this is only good for scenes which has constant lightings.(eg, indoors and no revolving spot lights).

for outdoors where you move around to get your compo, your angle, i find using A mode best.all you worry is the aperture to get teh DOF you want.let the camera handle the rest.i tried shooting M outdoors, but i'm simply not fast enough to switch/dial in the correct exposure.by the time i did, i had already missed countless of shots.

SB800:i find iTTL better than iTTLBL.cos it seem to correctly expose my subjects.for the latter, it seems to overexpose the subjects.maybe i dont really know how to control it well, or where to meter.but most of the time, i'm on center weighted metering and it's only outdoors where it's lit then i'll use matrix metering(matrix metering right?:bsmilie: i maybe wrong).:embrass:
 

monopod... lol. maybe u try liao let us know if it help or slow u down even more.

with monopod, I think my movement will be slow down by it for sure.

u might as well get afew more light stand, get afew more flash,get the SU800, put the flash stationary. ah damn.so mafan, might as well ask them brighten up the whole place :bsmilie:

best is bring continuous tungsten light.:thumbsup: :bsmilie:
 

anyway, let's get back to topic.

i noticed shooting manual mode is good.cos exposures are consistent.
however, this is only good for scenes which has constant lightings.(eg, indoors and no revolving spot lights).

for outdoors where you move around to get your compo, your angle, i find using A mode best.all you worry is the aperture to get teh DOF you want.let the camera handle the rest.i tried shooting M outdoors, but i'm simply not fast enough to switch/dial in the correct exposure.by the time i did, i had already missed countless of shots.

SB800:i find iTTL better than iTTLBL.cos it seem to correctly expose my subjects.for the latter, it seems to overexpose the subjects.maybe i dont really know how to control it well, or where to meter.but most of the time, i'm on center weighted metering and it's only outdoors where it's lit then i'll use matrix metering(matrix metering right?:bsmilie: i maybe wrong).:embrass:


TTL and TTL Balanced are for 2 different purposes. You can find the answer in your user manual.
 

TTL and TTL Balanced are for 2 different purposes. You can find the answer in your user manual.

i know.prob is,i never like reading manuals...:bsmilie:
ya ya...i'm lazy.:embrass:
 

actually zac, nikon should invent a bracket to hold 2 flashes over the dslr.so that in situations like this, maybe the flash can alternate fire?

1st it might help to get more frames per second all with flashes,

2nd, will it save the flash from exploding?:dunno:

just a tot

Well, some of them actully bring out both flashes attached to a Quantum 2x2. They will switch the flashes around to allow it to cool down between usage...
 

Well, some of them actully bring out both flashes attached to a Quantum 2x2. They will switch the flashes around to allow it to cool down between usage...

oic.cool!
 

anyway, let's get back to topic.

i noticed shooting manual mode is good.cos exposures are consistent.
however, this is only good for scenes which has constant lightings.(eg, indoors and no revolving spot lights).

for outdoors where you move around to get your compo, your angle, i find using A mode best.all you worry is the aperture to get teh DOF you want.let the camera handle the rest.i tried shooting M outdoors, but i'm simply not fast enough to switch/dial in the correct exposure.by the time i did, i had already missed countless of shots.

SB800:i find iTTL better than iTTLBL.cos it seem to correctly expose my subjects.for the latter, it seems to overexpose the subjects.maybe i dont really know how to control it well, or where to meter.but most of the time, i'm on center weighted metering and it's only outdoors where it's lit then i'll use matrix metering(matrix metering right?:bsmilie: i maybe wrong).:embrass:


When I use program (P) mode my exposures are constant indoors too. I don't think it has anything to do with manual or not. i-TTL has become advanced enough not to force you to do compensation, unlike last time when I shot film wth the silly manual flashgun.
 

i noticed shooting manual mode is good.cos exposures are consistent.
however, this is only good for scenes which has constant lightings.(eg, indoors and no revolving spot lights).

Are you sure??? :bigeyes:

Though lightings maybe the same, but the amount of light bounced off from objects of different reflectivity and colours will be different.
 

Are you sure??? :bigeyes:

Though lightings maybe the same, but the amount of light bounced off from objects of different reflectivity and colours will be different.

I believe it's more of manual camera settings and iTTL for the flash. The flash corrects for all other exposure
 

Are you sure??? :bigeyes:

Though lightings maybe the same, but the amount of light bounced off from objects of different reflectivity and colours will be different.

yes.very sure.
 

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