Sillica gel; thirsty hippo; dry boxes; dehumidifier lamp in a cupboard which one?
- Thread starter slaam
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Right now I keep all of my gear in a Kata DR 467 backpack with 3 cans of rechargeable silica gel.
It's neat because it's blue and you can find out if it's hydrated by looking to see if it's pink. When it turns pink, you just put the can back in the oven for 3 hours at 300 degrees. It then turns blue again because it's de-hydrated and ready to suck up moisture.
I use the Adorama one right here: http://www.adorama.com/ZZSGC.html
It has low ratings because it didn't come with instructions and people don't know how to use it so they just rate it low.
Here's one that's the same thing but just different brands: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/242571-REG/Pelican_PC1500D_Silica_Gel.html
It's neat because it's blue and you can find out if it's hydrated by looking to see if it's pink. When it turns pink, you just put the can back in the oven for 3 hours at 300 degrees. It then turns blue again because it's de-hydrated and ready to suck up moisture.
I use the Adorama one right here: http://www.adorama.com/ZZSGC.html
It has low ratings because it didn't come with instructions and people don't know how to use it so they just rate it low.
Here's one that's the same thing but just different brands: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/242571-REG/Pelican_PC1500D_Silica_Gel.html
I wonder if buying one of those UV lights for busting insects will work since UV effectively kills off fungus spores. Alternatively is to put the lens out in the sun once a week in a see through container.
I think it also kills the lens itself too and not just the fungus. But I could be wrong.
Hi Everyone
There IS something that all of us can I that I am using now. It is called BAMBOO CHARCOAL. You can find it at most hardware shops in the heartlands. Each pack comes with 2 bags. Either in purple, blue or green. Many of us might have seen it but thought nothing of it. In fact, these do not need changing like silica gels. Just place say, 4 of these (depending how big your dry box is) into your drybox and that's it!
You see, these bamboo charcoals do not leak. In fact, they absorb moisture when it is... humid and "release" moisture when it gets too dry whilst in the box. So, in other words... it is a self-regulating product.
Each bag can last up to a year, so take note when you buy them. I have been using these for the past 2 years and everything is good. I place my old 35mm developed negatives in the drybox too. You do not have to worry about static electricity or moisture anymore.
The best thing of all, these 2 bags cost only around $4.50.
Here are the links to back up what I said:-
http://www.blacktonature.com/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bamboo_charcoal
Cheers everyone!
LeDave has a point:
Some guys like to keep their gear in a bag bcos leceh to bring in and out of dry box/cabinet. So, using some silica gels in the bag sounds like a great idea, bcos u cannot put 'thirsty hippo' because if u forgot about it in a couple of months, the container would have a lot of fluid and spill all over your babies! Wif silica gel, no risks of spilling.
Anyways, I wouldnt buy thirsty hippo as it is really expensive- there's a lot of cheap alternatives out there working just as well costing 60cents to 90 cents per box (450g +/-) and about 30-50cents for a 200g box: Ideal for bros with tight budget: Save the pennies for better lens and equipment.
Those with money to burn, go for dry cabinet.
Some guys like to keep their gear in a bag bcos leceh to bring in and out of dry box/cabinet. So, using some silica gels in the bag sounds like a great idea, bcos u cannot put 'thirsty hippo' because if u forgot about it in a couple of months, the container would have a lot of fluid and spill all over your babies! Wif silica gel, no risks of spilling.
Anyways, I wouldnt buy thirsty hippo as it is really expensive- there's a lot of cheap alternatives out there working just as well costing 60cents to 90 cents per box (450g +/-) and about 30-50cents for a 200g box: Ideal for bros with tight budget: Save the pennies for better lens and equipment.
Those with money to burn, go for dry cabinet.
Those insect buster don't use UV to kill, they lamp (blue light with minute UV) is to attract insect while the wire mesh surrounding the lamp zaps the insect with electricity or stickers.
The UV light that is used for sterilization is intense harmful UV rays of different bandwith. Short term exposure causes skin burn while mid term causes cancer. Yes it kills fungus and the person but leaving the spores unharmed.
The UV light that is used for sterilization is intense harmful UV rays of different bandwith. Short term exposure causes skin burn while mid term causes cancer. Yes it kills fungus and the person but leaving the spores unharmed.
FYI.
A big air tight tuberware + 50% load of item inside, with 2x thirsty hippo = 14%-19% (reading from a digital hygrometer after 3 days.)
A big air tight tuberware + 50% load of item inside, with 2x thirsty hippo = 14%-19% (reading from a digital hygrometer after 3 days.)
I was referring to general application and not industrial. UV asterilizers are used together with pre-filter because particles can impede the effective of UV within the chamber. The filters traps all particles and spores.
As I interpret from text, spores encased require much longer time exposure which in most case not practical for running water and air filter. So most apply UV at the ionic mesh (but not effective for attracting heavy or charge inert particles) but pre-filtration still a must.
Water filter gets even harder. The water itself, color tint and particles reduce UV penetration, thus water is store temporary, UV it and flow. Continuous flow will face the same problem killing only thin organism and photosensitive chemical.
As I interpret from text, spores encased require much longer time exposure which in most case not practical for running water and air filter. So most apply UV at the ionic mesh (but not effective for attracting heavy or charge inert particles) but pre-filtration still a must.
Water filter gets even harder. The water itself, color tint and particles reduce UV penetration, thus water is store temporary, UV it and flow. Continuous flow will face the same problem killing only thin organism and photosensitive chemical.
Hehe, actually if you set aside $10 a week, you should be able to get a Digi-Cab (based on 30l) in like 3 months (one week $40), and you can buy a dry cabinet
.Hey guys.
I was thinking about how to control or maintain the humid level in a Air Tight Box(E.g Lock n Lock).
Before you guys start to say buy dry cabinet, why can you afford a few k camera but cant buy dry box etc.
Hear me out..
Is it possible that:
Step1 - Put a Hgdrometer in a Lock n Lock with your camera and a small amount of Slica Gel
Step2 - Read off the meter and wait till the reading is about 50%. Quickly take out the slica gel and lock the box back.
If the meter rise back too much.. Repeat step 1 and instead of 50% reading, wait till 30+% and repeat step 2.
From what i know, as long as the box is 100% airtight, the humid level should not change at all.
Any thoughts?
Anyway, I know a dry cabinet is better but I have my own reasons that having a dry cabinet isnt the ideal solution.
Thanks!
I was thinking about how to control or maintain the humid level in a Air Tight Box(E.g Lock n Lock).
Before you guys start to say buy dry cabinet, why can you afford a few k camera but cant buy dry box etc.
Hear me out..
Is it possible that:
Step1 - Put a Hgdrometer in a Lock n Lock with your camera and a small amount of Slica Gel
Step2 - Read off the meter and wait till the reading is about 50%. Quickly take out the slica gel and lock the box back.
If the meter rise back too much.. Repeat step 1 and instead of 50% reading, wait till 30+% and repeat step 2.
From what i know, as long as the box is 100% airtight, the humid level should not change at all.
Any thoughts?
Anyway, I know a dry cabinet is better but I have my own reasons that having a dry cabinet isnt the ideal solution.
Thanks!
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anyway..
found a website that says calibration of hygrometer.
in case anyone is interested.
hxxp://exoticpets.about.com/od/herpresources/ss/hygrometer_8.htm
found a website that says calibration of hygrometer.
in case anyone is interested.
hxxp://exoticpets.about.com/od/herpresources/ss/hygrometer_8.htm
hm.. i'm using sillica gels in lock n lock.
coz i use my cam very often thus they are always not inside the container.
meaning to say, i seldom open it .. mayb say,, 1once a week. but they stil turns pink. No container is 100% airtight. for wad i know lock and lock is not. mayb those more expensive box for underwater activities are but if thats the case then Dry cab will b better.
not too sure on the RH level now in the box.. wanna get 1 but i dun think i got space for cam+lens+grip+batts,, in the box + 1more meter next time haha. that will depend on how big the meter is.
Cheers!
i just got myself a dry box with a analog hgdrometer..
I used thirsty hippo to lower the reading to about 60 and then i took out hippo..
currently the hgdrometer is still the same..
Lock and lock is airtight. if not how can it be water proof?
I used thirsty hippo to lower the reading to about 60 and then i took out hippo..
currently the hgdrometer is still the same..
Lock and lock is airtight. if not how can it be water proof?
Here is my version of observation after doing some test.
There is a difference between empty box and one that has things inside. Not every material give up water easily as easily as paper and cloth. Silica gel when well spread (and qty), has the most efficient drying power. Anything item surface will dry in days.
Sachet/box form calcium desilicate has the area of the item itself, thus does not dry the content fast and perhaps never will achieve critical low unless stored for a very long time (1/2 year maybe unopened). But if you spread more packs across, it will achieve equivalent of silica gel spread. Mean surface area.
Do not just trust on 1 hygrometer, it can be wrong.
There is a difference between empty box and one that has things inside. Not every material give up water easily as easily as paper and cloth. Silica gel when well spread (and qty), has the most efficient drying power. Anything item surface will dry in days.
Sachet/box form calcium desilicate has the area of the item itself, thus does not dry the content fast and perhaps never will achieve critical low unless stored for a very long time (1/2 year maybe unopened). But if you spread more packs across, it will achieve equivalent of silica gel spread. Mean surface area.
Do not just trust on 1 hygrometer, it can be wrong.
Check that the hygrometer is working properly. Sometimes, the needle stuck, especially if it is the cheapo type that comes with the dry box.
btw, water proof is not the same as airtight. Try adding water into a balloon and check if it leaks. No right? so the balloon is water tight. Next, blow the balloon until it is big and round, and leave it for a few days. The balloon will deflate right? If it is air tight, how does the air escape?
In reality, there is no consumer containers that is really "airtight".
For the vacuum drybox, try pumping out the air and leave it for a few days. The pressure indicator will slowly indicate that the pressure inside will rise to outside pressure within, say, about a week.
btw, water proof is not the same as airtight. Try adding water into a balloon and check if it leaks. No right? so the balloon is water tight. Next, blow the balloon until it is big and round, and leave it for a few days. The balloon will deflate right? If it is air tight, how does the air escape?
In reality, there is no consumer containers that is really "airtight".
For the vacuum drybox, try pumping out the air and leave it for a few days. The pressure indicator will slowly indicate that the pressure inside will rise to outside pressure within, say, about a week.
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