LX2 going to ROCK...


Status
Not open for further replies.
kross said:
f camp is calling u then...;p
would depends greatly if ur subject is static like landscape or dynamic subject like dancer. if ur subject is static i think @ ISO400 + OIS(about 3stops worth) then it is pretty much comparable to the F30 ISO1600 infact if OIS is to help 3 stop it will make shooting under such condition even easier since F30 @ ISO1600 is only 2 stops ahead of ISO400. but if subject is dynamic then its the other way round.
 

kross said:
f camp is calling u then...;p
Learnt my lesson... I will be bringing along a F30 (and a DSLR of course) for my coming holiday in Yunnan next month :)
 

ExplorerZ said:
would depends greatly if ur subject is static like landscape or dynamic subject like dancer. if ur subject is static i think @ ISO400 + OIS(about 3stops worth) then it is pretty much comparable to the F30 ISO1600 infact if OIS is to help 3 stop it will make shooting under such condition even easier since F30 @ ISO1600 is only 2 stops ahead of ISO400. but if subject is dynamic then its the other way round.
Tried that... didn't work.
Also, if you are shooting a street scene at night, even if OIS allow you to get the buildings reasonably sharp, the slow shutter speed will ensure that all the moving people will be blurred. If the 'ghost' effect is what is desired, then fine... if not :thumbsd:
With a F30 at ISO1600, the shutter speed might just be fast enough to avoid blurring the people too much. In other word, OIS is not really very effective at night.

If you guys have seen my comparison shots of F30 at ISO1600 and D-Lux2 at ISO400 and still feel that LX1/LX2 is good enough as an all-purpose camera, then I would say that the LX1/LX2 are for you. ;)
 

weekh said:
Unfortunately even Fuji has not produced a cam with ISO 12,800 and sensor as noiseless as ISO 100 yet.

Even so, it still cannot let me handheld a cam to produce traffic /star trail for prolong exposure.

Forturnately a simply tripod will or a cam support will solve the problem.
Don't you think that that's quite an extreme demand to place on a digicam. Not even a DSLR can be handheld to take photos of traffic/star trail. If that's the only kind of night shots that you take, then probably any reasonably specified digicam on a tripod will do... don't even need the LX1/LX2.
 

ExplorerZ said:
would depends greatly if ur subject is static like landscape or dynamic subject like dancer. if ur subject is static i think @ ISO400 + OIS(about 3stops worth) then it is pretty much comparable to the F30 ISO1600 infact if OIS is to help 3 stop it will make shooting under such condition even easier since F30 @ ISO1600 is only 2 stops ahead of ISO400. but if subject is dynamic then its the other way round.
I find that the OIS on LX2 is still not as good as Nikon's VR on the P4.
 

Not sure why u say your shots with LX2 are not usable. What sort of shots do u take?
Does LX2 not produce up to ISO 1600?

What's your ISO limit? I wouldn't use LX2 above ISO 400 if possible and F30 above ISO 800. One stop isn't going to make a big difference to me.

And as far as possible, night shots /low lights will be on tripod or some solid support. Fill flash to freeze subjects if necessary. Or simply go with the flow for blurry shots if the shutter speed is too slow to freeze subjects.

Of course, F30 will have a slight advantage with less noise at higher ISO but I don't think that LX2 is that far behind, espeically if the output is small print and reduced size.
 

tomcat said:
Tried that... didn't work.
Also, if you are shooting a street scene at night, even if OIS allow you to get the buildings reasonably sharp, the slow shutter speed will ensure that all the moving people will be blurred. If the 'ghost' effect is what is desired, then fine... if not :thumbsd:
With a F30 at ISO1600, the shutter speed might just be fast enough to avoid blurring the people too much. In other word, OIS is not really very effective at night.

If you guys have seen my comparison shots of F30 at ISO1600 and D-Lux2 at ISO400 and still feel that LX1/LX2 is good enough as an all-purpose camera, then I would say that the LX1/LX2 are for you. ;)
Even a DSLR will not help you in this aspect... You have to know what you want to shoot. If you need to freeze motion at night, then it's advisable to use a flash.

For example, this shot below is deliberate.. and that's where OIS can come in useful to keep what's supposed to be still still and allow motion to be recorded.

ISO100 1/15s
LX2-Test07s.jpg
 

lsisaxon said:
I find that the OIS on LX2 is still not as good as Nikon's VR on the P4.
they will perfect the image stablization when the lens/sensor compensation is done frictionless.... :bsmilie:
 

lsisaxon said:
Even a DSLR will not help you in this aspect...
A DSLR at ISO1600 and a fast lens eg. 20D with EF 50mm f/1.8 will definitely help ... and will definitely do better than the F30 ;)
 

tomcat said:
A DSLR at ISO1600 and a fast lens eg. 20D with EF 50mm f/1.8 will definitely help ... and will definitely do better than the F30 ;)
Yeah.. Probably on a brightly lit street you can get the people to be frozen.. but if you need to use the f/1.8 aperture.. I think the depth of field will be quite narrow and you may get the people blur because of OOF instead of motion blur.. ;)

It really depends on what people wants. I'm someone who likes to use motion blur to portray motion to give the mood.
 

would like to ask anyone out there do they have any night taken pics using lx2 .. as so far i have only seen daytime pics using lx2.. any replies is well appreciated
 

bern820001 said:
would like to ask anyone out there do they have any night taken pics using lx2 .. as so far i have only seen daytime pics using lx2.. any replies is well appreciated
i'm interested to see too... especially night shots straight out of the box for all iso.......:)
to prepare myself for d-lux 3...:bsmilie:
 

bern820001 said:
would like to ask anyone out there do they have any night taken pics using lx2 .. as so far i have only seen daytime pics using lx2.. any replies is well appreciated

Edit: Shucks.. I didn't even realise that there were 2 people sitting there in the corner crop until now.
ISO100 night shot resized
LX2-Test08s.jpg


100% centre crop
LX2-Test08cc.jpg


100% corner crop
LX2-Test08cd.jpg
 

not bad....handheld right?
 

lsisaxon said:
Even a DSLR will not help you in this aspect... You have to know what you want to shoot. If you need to freeze motion at night, then it's advisable to use a flash.

For example, this shot below is deliberate.. and that's where OIS can come in useful to keep what's supposed to be still still and allow motion to be recorded.

ISO100 1/15s
LX2-Test07s.jpg
Surely it can't be advisable to use flash at night ! A flash has very limited reach and will only result in a brightly lit foreground subject against a dark to black background, killing off any ambience of the night scene whatsoever. Would probably have to use high ISO (800 or 1600) to retain some background in the photo.

And yes you are right... if you want to take picture of motion-blurred subjects against a stationary background, OIS would help. Ultimately, the point is that people should buy the type of cameras that suit their particular style of photography... and not someone else's style. :)
 

Regardless your shooting style, I doubt F30 will help much if LX2 failed to deliver.
 

tomcat said:
Surely it can't be advisable to use flash at night ! A flash has very limited reach and will only result in a brightly lit foreground subject against a dark to black background, killing off any ambience of the night scene whatsoever. Would probably have to use high ISO (800 or 1600) to retain some background in the photo.

And yes you are right... if you want to take picture of motion-blurred subjects against a stationary background, OIS would help. Ultimately, the point is that people should buy the type of cameras that suit their particular style of photography... and not someone else's style. :)
Of course, you can try to balance the flash illumination against the background. I know it's tough. It's still quite tough with a DSLR to get perfectly still humans even with ISO1600, probably at a speed of about 1/60s for a f/1.8 lens..

The image of the people crossing the road was shot at 1/15s, so 1/60 might still not be quite sufficient to freeze these fast paced people.. You'll probably need 1/125 or 1/250 depending on the focal length of the lens you use.

Then again, one of the image in my previous post did manage to capture 2 humans sitting still there in something like a 2s exposure. ;)

Yes. That's why it is important to know what would suit your style before paying for the features. I think many people just buy based on what's marketed without thinking if something actually suits them. :)
 

U prompted me to check out the cam at ISO 1600.

Actually LX2 at ISO 1600 not that bad if u shoot RAW and run noise reduction:


1600-compare.jpg


1600-compare-1.jpg
 

kross said:
not bad....handheld right?
No.. It's tough to handhold a 2s exposure. I supported the camera on my window grille for this shot. ;)
 

Status
Not open for further replies.