How do you minimize camera shake?


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boogle

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May 29, 2006
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Hi,

I have a 20D and found that I am prone to camera shake as the second pressure for the trigger button seems a little hard to press. In my PnS, I used to use timer delay to counter that and set the delay to 2secs. However, it seems that 20D only got a 10sec delay (I read the manual and there does not seem to be a way to change this, please correct me if I missed something) and that is a bit long for me to wait.

I also used to do burst mode with my PnS which was doing about 3 shots per sec. However the 5 shots per sec on 20D is wasteful on storage just to try and counter cam shake.

I have also tried mirror lockup but I think the "trigger snatch action" is a bigger prob than the mirror flip vibration and so I still have "shaken image syndrome"

Recently I purchased a remote cable but it only helps if I use tripod or something similar to mount or place the cam. However, I had a crazy idea and put the remote between my lips and used my mouth to trigger it while hand holding the cam. It seems to give me more stable shots. So at the moment, that seems to be the most convenient solution for me.

Just wanted to check if there are any other techniques or ideas on how to minimize cam shake at low light for hand held shots. Please do share your ideas. Thanks!
 

However, I had a crazy idea and put the remote between my lips and used my mouth to trigger it while hand holding the cam. It seems to give me more stable shots.
Interesting... :bsmilie:
 

Interesting... :bsmilie:

hahahah... yes but I think if I do it for too long, the thing will short circuit cos there would be too much drool on it.:embrass:
 

If you have gone through army, you would have learnt the "hold your breathe when you squeeze the trigger" technique. It applies the same to photography.

Another thing to take note is, do not frame your picture for too long as this will tire your hands. In shooting (rifle), you rely alot on your instinct once your weapon is zeroed. So same for photography, reply on your instinct. The picture is composed in your head first, not through the view finder.

Also, keep your both eyes open when you squeeze the shuttle. This way, you will know whether you have moved or shaked with reference to the environment. If you close your non-focusing eye, your entire reference will be on the viewfinder. This way, you do not know whether you have moved or shaked.

Once you have mastered this, you will be a better shooter using SLR. But the real fun of photography comes in when you use rangefinders. The length of the lens and the construction of the body is lighter than SLR. I shoot at 1/8s with no visible shake from my pictures.

- chiif
 

One of the National geographic photographer had told me that 90% of his picture was shot on a tripod with no centre coloum,he said don't trust your eye,tripod is the safest method.BTW I met him in my home town,sabah during his assigment in borneo island.
 

Guess MLU with Timer is 2 sec delay?


Hi,

I have a 20D and found that I am prone to camera shake as the second pressure for the trigger button seems a little hard to press. In my PnS, I used to use timer delay to counter that and set the delay to 2secs. However, it seems that 20D only got a 10sec delay (I read the manual and there does not seem to be a way to change this, please correct me if I missed something) and that is a bit long for me to wait.

I also used to do burst mode with my PnS which was doing about 3 shots per sec. However the 5 shots per sec on 20D is wasteful on storage just to try and counter cam shake.

I have also tried mirror lockup but I think the "trigger snatch action" is a bigger prob than the mirror flip vibration and so I still have "shaken image syndrome"

Recently I purchased a remote cable but it only helps if I use tripod or something similar to mount or place the cam. However, I had a crazy idea and put the remote between my lips and used my mouth to trigger it while hand holding the cam. It seems to give me more stable shots. So at the moment, that seems to be the most convenient solution for me.

Just wanted to check if there are any other techniques or ideas on how to minimize cam shake at low light for hand held shots. Please do share your ideas. Thanks!
 

Hi,

I have a 20D and found that I am prone to camera shake as the second pressure for the trigger button seems a little hard to press. In my PnS, I used to use timer delay to counter that and set the delay to 2secs. However, it seems that 20D only got a 10sec delay (I read the manual and there does not seem to be a way to change this, please correct me if I missed something) and that is a bit long for me to wait.

I also used to do burst mode with my PnS which was doing about 3 shots per sec. However the 5 shots per sec on 20D is wasteful on storage just to try and counter cam shake.

I have also tried mirror lockup but I think the "trigger snatch action" is a bigger prob than the mirror flip vibration and so I still have "shaken image syndrome"

Recently I purchased a remote cable but it only helps if I use tripod or something similar to mount or place the cam. However, I had a crazy idea and put the remote between my lips and used my mouth to trigger it while hand holding the cam. It seems to give me more stable shots. So at the moment, that seems to be the most convenient solution for me.

Just wanted to check if there are any other techniques or ideas on how to minimize cam shake at low light for hand held shots. Please do share your ideas. Thanks!
Use tripod. Full stop.
 

Take a burst sequence of 3 shots. The middle shot should be the sharpest of the bunch. Someone wrote an article on this and claimed you can get like 1-2stops better handholding this way. You can always delete the first and last shot in the sequence.

Of course if you're going for crazy shutterspeeds of like <1/2s then you really should use a tripod.
 

Guess MLU with Timer is 2 sec delay?

OK. Did not realise that. Thanks for the good tip. Was doing the one press lockup next press snap thing.
 

hahaha interesting indeed. I have the same problem... why didnt I think of this. :think:

Hmm... wonder if I'm going to see a lot of pple with remote triggers in their mouths this week when I go round shooting on the weekend... :bsmilie: BTW, remember to keep swallowing your drool or it will get messy... hehehe....
 

If you have gone through army, you would have learnt the "hold your breathe when you squeeze the trigger" technique. It applies the same to photography.

Another thing to take note is, do not frame your picture for too long as this will tire your hands. In shooting (rifle), you rely alot on your instinct once your weapon is zeroed. So same for photography, reply on your instinct. The picture is composed in your head first, not through the view finder.

- chiif

:thumbsup: Yes. I agree with that.
 

also make sure u have enough glucose in your blood. when u haven't eaten for a while, ur body relases adrenalin and you'll start to shake slightly.

if all else fails, use a tripod =P
 

thats for legshakes, try chicken wings
That's for wing shakes.

Btw boogle, to add to the list on invaluable advice here, I would add, 'practice'. Keep practising. You'll get the hang of it. Using contraptions like tripods, IS lens, remote release are all good. But it's such a shame if you need to depend on these contraptions, as you wud miss so many opportunities without them. Correct handling technique will see you a long way in maximising that 20D of yours.
 

Another technique would be to use shutter speed is faster than 1/actual focal length. Pumping up the ISO is usually necessary to get the necessary shutter speed when in low light condition. This means that a tripod is necessary if you're shooting at a much slower shutter speed than 1/actual focal length even after you've pumped up the ISO. This is assuming no image stabiliser.

This indirectly also means that below a certain shutter speed (e.g. 1/4), a tripod or some forum of firm support is absolutely necessary.

Mirror lock-up is only effective if the camera is mounted on a tripod and triggered by a remote. This is because any hanshake or pressing of the shutter release button would generate virbations which far exceed those caused by the mirror flips.
 

Hi all,

Thanks to all the valuable and sometimes also entertaining advice. Will definitely try out the suggestions and practice as often as I can. Hope to get to a stage where I am confident enuf to post some shots from this cam for C&C. :D
 

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