my first thoughts on the k20d

[longko]

Guys you have to remember that flash EV controls the flash and normal EV controls both the flash and Av/Tv values.
So if you are on Av priority, +1EV(normal EV) will increase the flash output AND slow the Tv to achieve 1 stop over.
If you are on Tv, +1EV will increase the flash output AND open(if it can) the Av to achieve 1 stop over.
But if you are on manual, it can't adjust the Av and Tv, so it will just increase the flash to get 1 stop over.

If you are using FLASH EV comp instead, it will only control the output of the flash and ignore the background(it has to be far enough) light level.
So if you set flash +1EV, the result will be something like the fill flash will be 1 stop over and yet the background exposure remains.

Of course to test this out, you have to do it outdoor when there is enough light for correct exposure. Then by changing the flash ev, you can control the amount of fill flash. However if you change the normal EV instead, it will change both the fill flash and the background exposure level.

In a dark room, there is no available light; the only source is the flash, so both type of EV will behave the same way.

Hope this helps

Think flowerpot is more interested on the fact that the problem of ceiling bounce with P-TTL can be resolved with the EV in M mode.

 

[night86mare]

I know how to do that, but that is beside the point. I had to hand over all the RAW files to the designer. I shouldn't make him adjust each and every file right? I had to get the exposure as perfect as possible so that I don't hear 'complain' that my pictures have to be 'touch up' in Photoshop because I cannot even get the exposure correctly. :nono:

It is 1 thing to be shooting for fun/myself. It is totally different if you are shooting on assigment. With digitals, photos are viewed immediately on the notebook in the studio, where everyone, including the client will see the results. You don't want to be giving excuses like ' oh, you can edit that out in Photoshop' kind of things. You get condemned on the spot as a photographer.

Of course these things can be done in Photoshop, but I am just saying tongue-in-cheek humour how good the K20D DR is. Sorry if you didn't get it.

ahhh, paiseh, didn't know it was for work. was just trying to help..

guess upping contrasting in camera also won't help.. the settings in-cam on k20d seem to be relatively less aggressive, i think.

 

[sbc]

f8 ? then my subject also washout leh, the strobe enough power, just that using light meter adjust strobe output till f16, suppose to be strong enough to wash out the white back drop, but my cam still pick up a tiny little grey...maybe light meter not accurate...:bsmilie:

Ok now I understand. Please ignore what I said about the f8 thingy.

 

[sbc]

ahhh, paiseh, didn't know it was for work. was just trying to help..

guess upping contrasting in camera also won't help.. the settings in-cam on k20d seem to be relatively less aggressive, i think.

Hey no problem man. I am just using the K10D and K20D to illustrate how good the K20D's DR is and also how sometimes we can turn the K10D's DR weakness into a strength.

 

[night86mare]

Hey no problem man. I am just using the K10D and K20D to illustrate how good the K20D's DR is and also how sometimes we can turn the K10D's DR weakness into a strength.

mmm, i'm really, really loving the DR though.. i have not had to use hdr so far for the k20d..

 

[sbc]

Yes, it is much easier to use outdoor. Before cameras like the K20D, D300 and D3 (mentioned them to be fair) appear, it is hard not to get burnt out skies or black shadows, making us choose between preserving highlight or shadow details.

 

[sbc]

Think flowerpot is more interested on the fact that the problem of ceiling bounce with P-TTL can be resolved with the EV in M mode.

I don't see why not. Indoor, if the available light is not enough, the flash is the main source of light. The normal EV comp will control the flash to achieve the exposure you desire.

 

[flowerpot]

Guys you have to remember that flash EV controls the flash and normal EV controls both the flash and Av/Tv values.
So if you are on Av priority, +1EV(normal EV) will increase the flash output AND slow the Tv to achieve 1 stop over.
If you are on Tv, +1EV will increase the flash output AND open(if it can) the Av to achieve 1 stop over.
But if you are on manual, it can't adjust the Av and Tv, so it will just increase the flash to get 1 stop over.

If you are using FLASH EV comp instead, it will only control the output of the flash and ignore the background(it has to be far enough) light level.
So if you set flash +1EV, the result will be something like the fill flash will be 1 stop over and yet the background exposure remains.

Of course to test this out, you have to do it outdoor when there is enough light for correct exposure. Then by changing the flash ev, you can control the amount of fill flash. However if you change the normal EV instead, it will change both the fill flash and the background exposure level.

In a dark room, there is no available light; the only source is the flash, so both type of EV will behave the same way.

Hope this helps

you are absolutely right but many ppl dun understand this part actually...using +/-EV and using flash +/- is different...anyway what do i noe...im still learning...

Think flowerpot is more interested on the fact that the problem of ceiling bounce with P-TTL can be resolved with the EV in M mode.

Yes :thumbsup:

 

[longko]

you are absolutely right but many ppl dun understand this part actually...using +/-EV and using flash +/- is different...anyway what do i noe...im still learning...



Yes :thumbsup:

Think with this at last I can be happy with Pentax P-TTL:bsmilie: I'm looking it at strobist POV. Image what u can do now with better control of P-TTL:bsmilie: I'm excited to have my AF-540FGZ back.

Kevin if u reading.. when's mine coming back from Jap?

 

[flowerpot]

Think with this at last I can be happy with Pentax P-TTL:bsmilie: I'm looking it at strobist POV. Image what u can do now with better control of P-TTL:bsmilie: I'm excited to have my AF-540FGZ back.

Kevin if u reading.. when's mine coming back from Jap?

for control shoot i still prefer manual setting, pttl the results like ?? dunno how to describe :bsmilie:

still yet to try pttl on events... still lacking tele zoom sianz...

anyway my wireless trigger still not here yet cannot start playing
everynite just test flash my vivitar everyday to run in the capacitor...:bsmilie:

 

[longko]

for control shoot i still prefer manual setting, pttl the results like ?? dunno how to describe :bsmilie:

still yet to try pttl on events... still lacking tele zoom sianz...

anyway my wireless trigger still not here yet cannot start playing
everynite just test flash my vivitar everyday to run in the capacitor...:bsmilie:

It's not that bad lah especially with +EV on body. Here's a quick shot I did with my "god-son".

ISO400 f8 1/180s. Trigger with Pentax P-TTL in-build flash. Background head light AF-360FGZ at P-TTL EV-1.0 with snoot grib. 45 degree left Metz 48-AF1 with umbrella P-TTL EV+1. Body I recall it as EV+1 or 2

Straight out from K20D JPEG

After PP

Edit: This is just a quick setup with nothing really planned. Just grab what I have, argar setup then shot. lol

 

[faisalee]

I hate the K20D because its forcing me to buy DA* and Limited lens ;p. Overall I'm very happy with the K20D in terms of image quality and the amount of customisation that you can do.

Pros (as compared to the K10D) :

1) Lower noise level
2) Slightly faster AF in low light (but not that much)
3) I can use back my old battery grip !
4) Softer shutter mirror slap
5) Improved AWB
6) New 21fps feature (I'm really having fun with this)
7) Lens adjustment, so no need to go bother Kevin anymore haha.
8) Better integration with SDM lens
9) Amazing details from the 14.6 sensor (needs to buy higher resolution monitor hehe)

Cons :

1) Like everyone here said, freaking big file size. 70% of the time I'm shooting at 10mp on non-critical photography to save space.
2) Still... 3fps
3) Really need to RTFM on some of the features in the menu
4) No dedicated WB button on the cam, still need to press the Fn button first
5) Same goes to changing from 1fps to 3fps, no dedicated button, still need to press the Fn button first

Ditto

I was given a 16mb SD card to test the K20D at OP :bsmilie:
Click... Zoom Preview... Delete All... Click... Zoom Preview... Delete All :bsmilie: HUGE Jpeg but for a 14mp its ok

 

[dnaxe]

guys . you know - saving jpg with "4 stars" is almost pointless. Moving to 3 stars is highly recommended.

 

[faisalee]

guys . you know - saving jpg with "4 stars" is almost pointless. Moving to 3 stars is highly recommended.

Good idea :thumbsup: