lighting ratios (outdoors)
- Thread starter jeanie
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Will, using TTL with spot metering work? Meter for ambient, then set -3EV. Then use spot meter with TTL, should get the correct exposure for the subject, right? Haven't tried it out, just a hypothesis.
well no one... like i said in my last few post... she din mention what subject she is shooting... so GND is one of the option assuming it is landscape.
Are you refering to manual exposure? If so, yes.
If you are refering to exposure compensation at -3EV with auto metering (P, A or S), then it is wrong. You will then get the subject to be underexposed by 3 stop.
To do it with manual exposure (M mode), find the shutter speed and aperture with spot metering on the background. Then set the aperture 3 stop smaller and shoot with spot meter on the subject with TTL flash (but I am not sure whether TTL works with spot metering or not).
BC
jeanie, say you want to do something like this
http://forums.clubsnap.org/showthread.php?t=245560
from my own thread :bsmilie:
The background was about 1/125, f4
Subject is shade measures about 1/30, f4
I wanted to underexp the background by 2 stops, so I shot at 1/250, f5.6
Obviously now the subject will be very much underexposed, something like 4 stops.
What I did was I had a strobe firing at about f5.6, so I get the subject properly exposed with a underexposed background. I had a light meter with me, though I seldom use it anymore. Can just guesstimate nowadays. Using a normal speedlite, you can roughly do the same, just compensate and +EV either through your ETTL/ITTL wateva or manually.
http://forums.clubsnap.org/showthread.php?t=245560
from my own thread :bsmilie:
The background was about 1/125, f4
Subject is shade measures about 1/30, f4
I wanted to underexp the background by 2 stops, so I shot at 1/250, f5.6
Obviously now the subject will be very much underexposed, something like 4 stops.
What I did was I had a strobe firing at about f5.6, so I get the subject properly exposed with a underexposed background. I had a light meter with me, though I seldom use it anymore. Can just guesstimate nowadays. Using a normal speedlite, you can roughly do the same, just compensate and +EV either through your ETTL/ITTL wateva or manually.
actually, the easiest thing is, go out with one of the masters, get a model, then experiment. :sweat: :sweat: :sweat:
It's always easier to show than to write. :sweatsm:
splut i dont get it.u fire the subject at f5.6, but you mentioned it's already 4 stops under.you mean you set your flash to f5.6 manually?then what about shutter speed?
and when u mention subject is in shade and measures about 1/30 f4, is that with flash or just ambient spot metering on face?
Flash exposure is not affected by shutter speed. (The flash duration is very much shorter than the shutter speed.)
The idea is to underexpose the background. The background is not illumnated by flash (or strobe). Therefore, when the camera is set to 1/250 f/5.6 (ambient is 1/125 f/4), the background will be underexposed by 2 stops.
Now you set the flash (or strobe) to f/5.6 to illuminate your subject. (Since now your camera is set at 1/250 f/5.6 and subject is in shade with ambient metering of 1/30 f/4 which is 4 stops under w/o flash.)... or use TTL.
BC
so if i set my flash to 5.6, it will be underexposed by 1 stop isnt it?since the correct reading for the subject is f4 1/30s?no?:dunno:
also, since flash is not affected by shutter speed, why does my camera has this flash FP to sync with the flash?:dunno: :dunno: :dunno:
i totally LOST season 3.
FP has nothing to do with exposure... but syncronisation...
This one is a long story... have to explain to you another time.... :sweat:
BC
Apply the theory of KISS - Keep It Simple S.....
I'll repeat what I wrote earlier
Use your camera to meter the ambient.
Go to M mode on your camera, and adjust your settings so that ambient is 3 stops under.
Put your flash to standard TTL (or AA mode will also work) - don't mess with manual flash unless you know what you are doing.
Fire away.
I'll repeat what I wrote earlier
Use your camera to meter the ambient.
Go to M mode on your camera, and adjust your settings so that ambient is 3 stops under.
Put your flash to standard TTL (or AA mode will also work) - don't mess with manual flash unless you know what you are doing.
Fire away.
read already.
Now you set the flash (or strobe) to f/5.6 to illuminate your subject. (Since now your camera is set at 1/250 f/5.6 and subject is in shade with ambient metering of 1/30 f/4 which is 4 stops under w/o flash.)... or use TTL.
so, whether i set to 5.6 on flash or not, has absolutely no relevance on my initial reading of 1/30 f4?:dunno:
cos it doenst matter what the initial reading for subject is SINCE i'm going to set to the final ambient exposure(what i wanted, in this mentioned case, 2 stops under) aperture of 5.6 right?
so what's the relevance of stating the 4 stops under without flash?
Now you set the flash (or strobe) to f/5.6 to illuminate your subject. (Since now your camera is set at 1/250 f/5.6 and subject is in shade with ambient metering of 1/30 f/4 which is 4 stops under w/o flash.)... or use TTL.
so, whether i set to 5.6 on flash or not, has absolutely no relevance on my initial reading of 1/30 f4?:dunno:
cos it doenst matter what the initial reading for subject is SINCE i'm going to set to the final ambient exposure(what i wanted, in this mentioned case, 2 stops under) aperture of 5.6 right?
so what's the relevance of stating the 4 stops under without flash?
explain flash FP to me.till now, i still dont really know what the hell it does other than to let me sync my shutter speed with the flash.:dunno:
yu have my email.
I think what Splutter is trying to say is that without the flash, but with the subject in the shade, the subject will be underexposed by 4 stops... therefore he used a strobe to light the subject at f/5.6...
BC:sweat:
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