i don't think the VF will affect the exposure, but i read elsewhere that light entering the VF will affect the metering.
I am so poisoned by night86mare's long-exposure shots......
- Thread starter FrozenRiver
- Start date
i don't think the VF will affect the exposure, but i read elsewhere that light entering the VF will affect the metering.
Override2Zion
Senior Member
I have encountered problems with VF unsealed on one occasion, there was some kinda strange banding on the final image without the VF shut. It has been reported by several other CS members here as well, http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/showthread.php?t=749566&page=2. Perhaps your test might not have been conclusive enough or it could be difficult to replicate the environment where such problems can occur.
Here is the extract from that thread
...the banding is because of stray light entering the viewfinder, i did a confirmatory test, nowadays i don't experience banding anymore...
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I dunno about flares. But according to page 205 of the manual for Canon's EOS 550D: "If you take a picture without looking at the viewfinder, light entering the eyepiece can throw off the exposure." The manual suggests using the eyepiece cover to prevent this. Though it does point out that it's not necessary when using live view.
If it only affects the exposure, does it mean that the eyepiece cover isn't necessary if exposure is set manually? :think:
Override2Zion
Senior Member
Heres another post with some photo evidence, not for Nikon or Canon but this problem should be regardless of model and brand
http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-dslr-discussion/70135-k20d-banding-long-exposure.html
Here are the results from that test that "BigG" (from pentax forum) performed, credits to him
30 seconds, f/4, B+W ten stop.
30 seconds, f/4 B + W ten stop - this time shining a torch into the viewfinder for a few seconds.
http://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-dslr-discussion/70135-k20d-banding-long-exposure.html
Here are the results from that test that "BigG" (from pentax forum) performed, credits to him
30 seconds, f/4, B+W ten stop.
30 seconds, f/4 B + W ten stop - this time shining a torch into the viewfinder for a few seconds.
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Thanx. There's an obvious difference. I guess to be safe, I should start using my cam's eye piece cover.
a ND4 & 8 is sufficient enough for general usage... this thread reminds me that i've a set of super underutilized tianya filter lying around... need to use them more... hahah...
Still pending my own final decision... B+W is famous for its quality, while the Tianya set is really cheap... Plus it is a set of filters, rather than a single copy...
Sigh.:bigeyes:
Sigh.:bigeyes:
Do you mean that if I've gotten the budget, I should go for B+W? Then I think I am going for that...
Thanks dude.
Did tests again, my findings.
30s, ISO800, using a 3W Lumiled torch (pretty bright, the spot), shining continuously into the VF and varying all the angles up down left right, none of that banding. Pitch dark image.
30s, ISO800, using my 35W metal halide (this bugger can illuminate something that is as far as 3km away with the big 8" reflector), can get the thing illuminated. Same thing, up down left right. Even though its metal halide which is pretty efficient and little IR, I still risk burning my eyepiece. :sweat: Its HOT!
Camera, stupid little old D200. :sweat: This little guy surived falls in which the Nikkor 17-55 also buang till cannot repair, SB-600 hotshoe also buang till cannot repair. Since purchased in Dec 2005 prob it went through about 400 weddings. Still going strong, way past shutter count expiry.
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I guess so. My D200 only get the problem with some crazy conditions. I have a 100mW laser as well. :bsmilie:
yep. so its a good habit to shut off the viewfinder when doing LE. a simple small piece of gaffer tape does the job. a trick i picked form another member here
7D seems to be another one that has no VF light leak issues.
If you did a 30 minute exposure with halogenlight though... Maybe your camera melt.
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Interesting discussion.
I have had a ND4 Hoya filter. However was introduced to the variable ND filters about 6 months ago and have been using them. So far so good.
I used the first versions from fader filters. Paid about $140 for the 77mm ones.
I think there are 3 companies making them now.
Cheapest - most expensive
1) Fader filters
http://faderfilters.com/
I have their version I
They have now release markII versions which seem a little bit more expensive.
2) Lightcraft Workshop
http://www.lightcraftworkshop.com/site/page1000.aspx
Impression is that the ones from fader filters are the same as these.
3) SinghRay
http://www.singh-ray.com/varind.html
Sounds like the best and original quality optics and of course most expensive.
Pros:
2 to 10 stops variability in 1 single filter.
I sometimes have this on top of the Hoya ND4.
Allows me to take flowing water in bright sunlight.
(photos in my flickr stream)
I have used this on a variety of lenses from the toki 11-16, nikon 50, 24, 35-70
Cons:
the front section is bigger than the mount size. So eg if you buy 77mm to fit most of your lenses then be prepared to find a 82mm filter cap. Actually I still dont know what size the front filter cap is.. going to a shop to find it tomorrow.
Also there can be vignetting on your wide angle lens.
In my case with the Tokina 11-16mm on my D90, I have to use the lens at 13mm
Hope this helps.
I have had a ND4 Hoya filter. However was introduced to the variable ND filters about 6 months ago and have been using them. So far so good.
I used the first versions from fader filters. Paid about $140 for the 77mm ones.
I think there are 3 companies making them now.
Cheapest - most expensive
1) Fader filters
http://faderfilters.com/
I have their version I
They have now release markII versions which seem a little bit more expensive.
2) Lightcraft Workshop
http://www.lightcraftworkshop.com/site/page1000.aspx
Impression is that the ones from fader filters are the same as these.
3) SinghRay
http://www.singh-ray.com/varind.html
Sounds like the best and original quality optics and of course most expensive.
Pros:
2 to 10 stops variability in 1 single filter.
I sometimes have this on top of the Hoya ND4.
Allows me to take flowing water in bright sunlight.
(photos in my flickr stream)
I have used this on a variety of lenses from the toki 11-16, nikon 50, 24, 35-70
Cons:
the front section is bigger than the mount size. So eg if you buy 77mm to fit most of your lenses then be prepared to find a 82mm filter cap. Actually I still dont know what size the front filter cap is.. going to a shop to find it tomorrow.
Also there can be vignetting on your wide angle lens.
In my case with the Tokina 11-16mm on my D90, I have to use the lens at 13mm
Hope this helps.
Thank you... It sounds really fancy... But a B+W at S$135 is right at my psychological price limit. Thanks for your nice recommendation anyway. Maybe I'll consider it when I feel the need (ie when my skills are sophisticated enough).
Override2Zion
Senior Member
Hi bro, no sweat about that. Glad to be of some help. I guess different cameras might give varying results, general test simply shows it affects some cameras more than others. Btw, D200 is a great camera and I'm still using it till now even after upgrading to full frame.
On aperture-priority mode, IT WILL AFFECT YOUR EXPOSURE.
Encountered this problem on both my 5D Mk1 and Mk2.
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I personally have 2 B+W NDs. A 3-stop, for when the light is getting rather dim so I don't have exposures that go into the tens of minutes, and a 10-stop, for when I'm shooting in broad daylight.
Some examples:
This one was done with a 3-stop (Because I still wanted to retain some detail in the water flow instead of having "one big mess of white".
This one was done with a 10-stop (when I wanted a perfectly smooth sea.)
Hope this helped
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