You don't need HDR to perform this actionMy explanation above.
hmmm...I wasn't referring to HDR, but more of layering and masking.
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How to take picture if background is brighter den foreground?
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hmmm...I wasn't referring to HDR, but more of layering and masking.
Are you using Nikon body ? If you are then the following instruction will allow you
to meter different from your focus point.
On your body, there should be a AF-ON button. In your menu, set it to lock exposure only.
What you do switch to spot or weighted metering. Point the focus spot at the sky area, hold on to the AF-ON button, you will observe a AE-L wording lit up in your viewfinder display. Then shift your focus point to your subject, half depress the shutter release button to engage the focusing mechanism and fully depress when you are ready to capture.
That will allow you to expose on different parts of the scene and perform a recompose and capture procedure.
Another more manual approach is point your focus point to the point u want to meter, using spot or weighted metering. Observe the shutter speed and aperture used, switch your mode to manual and use these values. Then point at your subject, half depress shutter release button to focus and shoot.
Both will give you the same results.
Metering is just a action to tell you what shutter speed and aperture to use and any moment to properly expose the scene.
Correct me if I am wrong, but this meters only either the subject or the sky right? How would it solve the problem of a strongly backlit sky?
Well that's why I mentioned quite a few threads back you need a fill light isn't it ?
hen you meter the sky, the sky will be correctly exposed with all the colours and details there. If it's a bright day, quite unlikely you have anything brighter than it. So your subject which isn't as bright will becomes underexpose with a BAO GONG face. So you need to lit it up. If the day is bright enough, you use a reflector to reflect the ambient light into the subject face, another approach is on your flash, switch to high speed sync mode because it is almost 100% the fastest sync speed at 1/250 for good cameras is not fast enough shutter for a bright day. Use the AP sync mode to allow higher shutter speed and also power down the flash at the same time. The flash will be just right with a iTTL balance flash from Nikon to give the sufficient light to lit up the under exposed face of your subject. There you get a nice looking face with the background preserved. So don't be curious why you find photographers use flash in broad day light. That's for this purpose
Well that's why I mentioned quite a few threads back you need a fill light isn't it ?
hen you meter the sky, the sky will be correctly exposed with all the colours and details there. If it's a bright day, quite unlikely you have anything brighter than it. So your subject which isn't as bright will becomes underexpose with a BAO GONG face. So you need to lit it up. If the day is bright enough, you use a reflector to reflect the ambient light into the subject face, another approach is on your flash, switch to high speed sync mode because it is almost 100% the fastest sync speed at 1/250 for good cameras is not fast enough shutter for a bright day. Use the AP sync mode to allow higher shutter speed and also power down the flash at the same time. The flash will be just right with a iTTL balance flash from Nikon to give the sufficient light to lit up the under exposed face of your subject. There you get a nice looking face with the background preserved. So don't be curious why you find photographers use flash in broad day light. That's for this purpose
Ah... got it. Cause I mistakenly read it as you could solve the issue by just metering for either the subject or the sky.
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