whatever happened to the good ol' calculation by the GN?
nowadays autoeverythinggoes, where got need to do manual calculation one. :bsmilie::bsmilie:
whatever happened to the good ol' calculation by the GN?
got! when you set to manual!nowadays autoeverythinggoes, where got need to do manual calculation one. :bsmilie::bsmilie:
got! when you set to manual!
Then just need to know how to press a different button - on a light meter can liao!
AUTO Calculate everything all over again! No need to use blains! :bsmilie:
this is a work around. suppose that the desired effect is for the light to come in straight from the side and not fall from the top or it is outdoors without any ceiling. Then the suggestion will not work.I think Kniveswood had a good idea, can you bounce it off the ceiling or a wall to deflect it's harshness instead of having to place your flash just right? I suppose if you have the time though, you can move it back a bit and possibly angle it for the shot but than you may be looking at an unwanted shadowing affect on your subject.
Hi guys,
Sorry if this sound stupid, but I'm new to using off-camera flash.
I have a 430ExII with an ebay trigger on manual mode, dialed to the lowest setting it can go (1/64).
I'm using a 17-55 at 55mm for a tight headshot. The flash is 3 ft away from the subject, with an omnibounce. Nearer = softer, right?
Problem is, the flash is too powerful, resulting in the subject being overexposed. Since the power is already at the minimum, what can I do to lower the flash output? In ETTL mode it's really easy using flash compensation.
Thanks, and cheers!
this is a work around. suppose that the desired effect is for the light to come in straight from the side and not fall from the top or it is outdoors without any ceiling. Then the suggestion will not work.
Also, TS problem is with flash being "too powerful" (I always wished that I had a more powerful flash)that over exposed his shots and not about light being too hard.
GN given on flash lights have a purpose. Do read up on it. It'll serve everyone to understand your equipment better and not need to change your art direction due to the lack of proficiency on your equipment.
Hi guys,
Sorry if this sound stupid, but I'm new to using off-camera flash.
I have a 430ExII with an ebay trigger on manual mode, dialed to the lowest setting it can go (1/64).
I'm using a 17-55 at 55mm for a tight headshot. The flash is 3 ft away from the subject, with an omnibounce. Nearer = softer, right?
Problem is, the flash is too powerful, resulting in the subject being overexposed. Since the power is already at the minimum, what can I do to lower the flash output? In ETTL mode it's really easy using flash compensation.
Thanks, and cheers!
Hi guys,
Sorry if this sound stupid, but I'm new to using off-camera flash.
I have a 430ExII with an ebay trigger on manual mode, dialed to the lowest setting it can go (1/64).
I'm using a 17-55 at 55mm for a tight headshot. The flash is 3 ft away from the subject, with an omnibounce. Nearer = softer, right?
Problem is, the flash is too powerful, resulting in the subject being overexposed. Since the power is already at the minimum, what can I do to lower the flash output? In ETTL mode it's really easy using flash compensation.
Thanks, and cheers!
what do you mean by flash too harsh?hi guys,
after reading this thread. i have a key take-away. pls confirm my understrand is correct or not:
when u find that flash is too harsh, by turning down the shutter speed u cut ambient light, it doesnt affect flash harshness.
re-read my post #30, orto reduce hashness, either point flash to the sky with omnibounce (lose 2 stopes), or manually adjust down the flash power. if all fail, use a big big diffuser.
right?
Hi TS,
since you are already handholding ur flash, why not get the Canon Off-Camera Shoe Cord OC-E3. With this, u have the flexibility of handheld ur flash while retaining the ETTL function. Of coz ND filter does help, but using it will also cutting down on ur ambient light, which may not be the most desirable solution.
Actually TS encountered a problem in making the light softer and by moving the flash closer to his subjects, he created a second problem with the minimum flash output being too powerful.
By using a suitable size diffuser, he would be able to create softer light for his subject and also bring down the power of his flash
you can just use ND gels over the flash if you just wanna reduce its output..
Let me try and give you a simple work flow... but this is not a rule but a guideline. You can adjust any of the settings, but just something to start you off with...
1. Set ISO to the required level (normally I start at lowest).
2. Use the camera to meter the scene when you adjust the aperture and shutter speed by looking at the +/- section.
3. Set aperture to the required amount (aperture controls the amount of light, esp. from the flash).
- 3.1 If you want to use wide aperture (e.g. f/2.8), you can decrease flash power, decrease ISO, or use ND filter.
4. Set to a shutter speed that does not pass the max sync speed (normally 1/200s). The shutter speed controls ambient light.
- 4.1 If you need more ambient light, decrease shutter speed.
--- 4.1.1 If shutter speed is so slow that cannot be handheld, use a tripod.
- 4.2 If you need less ambient light, increase shutter speed.
--- 4.2.1 If the shutter speed is at the max (e.g. 1/200s), you can use ND filter and/or decrease ISO.
5. Set the flash sync speed to an amount and try it out.
- 5.1 If you need more light from the flash, increase it or move the light closer (inverse sq law).
--- 5.1.1 If you are at max power and need more light, you can add another flash, and/or increase ISO and/or decreased aperture f-number (bigger aperture).
- 5.2 If you need less light from the flash, decrease it or move it further from the subject (inverse sq law).
--- 5.2.1 If you cannot decrease it anymore, you can use ND filter, and/or decrease ISO, and/or increase aperture f-number (smaller aperture).
6. If you want softer light, the size of the light source should be bigger in comparison to the subject and also the distance from the subject.
Hope this helps