Can't focus using close up filter

[just_league]

I just bought a Hoya X4 close up filter and attached it to my 28-200mm nikkor G lens on a d50. I can't get it to focus and it's pretty blur once the filter is attached? Compatibility problem , lens problem or camera problem? :think:

 

[espn]

I find that hoya filters close ups doesn't really produce clear images as whole because it acts like a magnifying glass.

The resolution power on a DSLR probably magnified it's flaws as well as it's image(s). If you want a close up filter, I suggest you look at Nikon 4,5,6T filters and/or Canon 250D/500D.

Don't flame me. I'm just a newbie :embrass:

Please consult with the pros who refer to MTF charts and those who don't comment much :embrass:

 

[just_league]

thks, just trying out, i found the problem, me also newbie, should have posted in the newbie forum, sorry Will look into the nikon ones

 

[espn]

thks, just trying out, i found the problem, me also newbie, should have posted in the newbie forum, sorry Will look into the nikon ones

You suan me, I more newbie than you :embrass:

 

[just_league]

no lah, really newbie ;p :thumbsup:

 

[justarius]

I just bought a Hoya X4 close up filter and attached it to my 28-200mm nikkor G lens on a d50. I can't get it to focus and it's pretty blur once the filter is attached? Compatibility problem , lens problem or camera problem? :think:

I think it's a combination of all. The 28-200 isn't an excellently sharp lens to begin with. Stick a so-so Hoya 4X on it, sharpness is only going to get worse. When doing close ups, best is to manual focus; AF will either take a long time, or it will take a long time and still be inaccurate.

I second espn's suggestion for getting the better closeup filters... those have two elements, and gives better results.

 

[glay78]

thks, just trying out, i found the problem, me also newbie, should have posted in the newbie forum, sorry Will look into the nikon ones

So what causes the prob?? Can share?

 

[just_league]

So what causes the prob?? Can share?

Not close enough, stupid me :embrass:

 

[Artosoft]

I just bought a Hoya X4 close up filter and attached it to my 28-200mm nikkor G lens on a d50. I can't get it to focus and it's pretty blur once the filter is attached? Compatibility problem , lens problem or camera problem? :think:

Can I check with you, did Hoya put X4 on the filter? AFAIK, they put +4.

Regards,
Arto.

 

[just_league]

Can I check with you, did Hoya put X4 on the filter? AFAIK, they put +4.

Regards,
Arto.

yes yes, it's a +4, sorry dude ;p

 

[Artosoft]

yes yes, it's a +4, sorry dude ;p

Hehehe...

Because if X1, no magnification :bsmilie: .

Close up filter is a magnifying glass. Close up +4 mean 1m(100cm)/4 = 0.25m(25cm). That's the focus distance. Or you can call it focal length of +4 is 250mm. If you put +4 under the sun, it will focus the sun light, you can get one single bright spot, and that 25cm from the +4.

If you put +4 on the lens and set lens focus at infinity, your focus become 25cm (from +4). So your working distance is <=25cm (from +4), depends on your lens focus.

I forgot the math for optic calculation, so I can't give you the calculation if you set your lens focus to min distance.

Hope that help.

Regards,
Arto.

 

[just_league]

Hehehe...

Because if X1, no magnification :bsmilie: .

Close up filter is a magnifying glass. Close up +4 mean 1m(100cm)/4 = 0.25m(25cm). That's the focus distance. Or you can call it focal length of +4 is 250mm. If you put +4 under the sun, it will focus the sun light, you can get one single bright spot, and that 25cm from the +4.

If you put +4 on the lens and set lens focus at infinity, your focus become 25cm (from +4). So your working distance is <=25cm (from +4), depends on your lens focus.

I forgot the math for optic calculation, so I can't give you the calculation if you set your lens focus to min distance.

Hope that help.

Regards,
Arto.

Stress...chim... anyway thks, i'll try the nikon ones next time to see any difference

 

[Artosoft]

Stress...chim... anyway thks, i'll try the nikon ones next time to see any difference

I bet Nikon (4T?) will give the same result as Hoya +4. Both are magnifying glasses. Unless if Nikon one is apochromatic/achromatic one, it will reduce chromatic aberration. But the difference is only a little.

Regards,
Arto.

 

[espn]

no lah, really newbie ;p :thumbsup:

Why you suan me :cry:

I second espn's suggestion for getting the better closeup filters... those have two elements, and gives better results.

Erm I might be wrong.. I'm only a newbie :embrass: Do check with the pros around first. It might be crap.

Can I check with you, did Hoya put X4 on the filter? AFAIK, they put +4.

Regards,
Arto.

What's the difference between X4 and +4 :embrass: Can explain to a newbie?

 

[longkangman]

I lost :dunno:

 

[Artosoft]

What's the difference between X4 and +4 :embrass: Can explain to a newbie?

I don't know :dunno: . I am just feel the correct one for Close Up filter should be +4 instead of X4.

As a newbie try to explain to newbie, let me try:
Because if people say X1 for Close Up filter +1, it doesn't make sense, since X1 is equal to no magnification. That what I think.

Maybe need pro to explain :embrass: .

Regards,
Arto.

 

[cerebrus]

Errr... let me try. Ill use my Raynox DCR 250 as an example.

A little bit of maths:
that +# is refered to as the diopter.
focal length(in meters) = 1/diopters
magnification = dipoters/4 + 1

So for mine:
Diopter = +10
focal length = 0.1m = 100mm
magnification = 3.5x

So there is no such thing as a X4 filter, unless you are getting cheated by some company.

 

[cerebrus]

Just noticed Artosoft's post, so I reposted some of the stuff he said ;p

 

[ywh]

Hoya CU diopters though not excellent in quality, is usable on your lens. How far were you from the subject when you were trying to focus? Low quality filters will still allow you to get in focus, just that the image is not sharp.

 

[macross]

I bet Nikon (4T?) will give the same result as Hoya +4. Both are magnifying glasses. Unless if Nikon one is apochromatic/achromatic one, it will reduce chromatic aberration. But the difference is only a little.

Regards,
Arto.

Nikon 3T and 5T are +1.5, 4T and 6T are +2.9.