Any good film p&s cemara?


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CMan

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Jul 31, 2003
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Hi guys,

Just wanna know any good film p&s cemara to recommmend whether zoom or no zoom? Me saw some threads on Ricoh gr1v. Quite good reviews on it.

Thanks!
 

hi CMan,

Non Zoom: Olympus Mju II (Low price, sharp photo), F2.8 bright lens,
1/1000 - 4s shuttle speed.
Yashica T4/T5
Mid zoom: Olympus Mju Wide Zoom 80 Deluxe (28mm to 80mm), Minolta Riva
28-75mm, Pentax 105SW/120SW,Yashica T4 zoom
 

Yes, the Contax T3 (35mm) is a GREAT PnS, the images are very sharp and you get the beautiful colours that are so typical of Carl Zeiss lenses. In fact, the glass is sharper than what you get out of most SLR lenses.

I have tried a Ricoh GR1V (28mm) and GR21 (21mm), of which both exhibit nice sharp images, but the Contax's colour is better. Prices for Ricoh's GR1v and GR21 have been skyrocketing recently as they are getting harder and harder to come by, and they have been out of production for quite a while already. In fact, the GR21 has doubled in price over the past two years, simply because only about 5000 were ever produced.

I have also tried a friend's Leica Minilux (40mm) and the photographs are very very good, not as sharp as the Contax, but very smooth feeling to the photographs. The replacement of the Minilux is the CM, and you should be able to try one out at local dealers.

For the cheaper PnS with zoom, try this link, where I put up onto Clubsnap when I was looking for an idiot proof setup. For a little more money, you could try the Leica Minilux zoom (35-70mm), which I don't really like simply based on its specifications and price (never tried it before), or the Contax TVSII (28-56mm), which I simply love to use owing to its manual zoom. Unfortunately, this camera is no longer produced, and second hand ones in good condition are expensive. The original TVS is still widely available, but has a smaller and darker viewfinder. Most people say that the glass on the Minilux zoom is better than the TVSII e.g. light falloff at the corners typical of wider angled lenses, but the TVSIII should easily beat the Minilux zoom. Problem with the TVSIII is the awful drawbridge design.

The Fuji Silvi f2.8 Black (24-50mm) is another favourite, but it is only available in Japan and can get expensive depending on which part of Japan it is purchased from. The no exposure compensation silver cououred version is sold very very cheaply in Singapore as Fuji ZoomDate f2.8, and is still available in Singapore.

Of all the cameras that I have listed above, I feel that the Ricohs comes with the best camera body specifications combination and is the most user friendly. In terms of glass, it should be a straight fight between the Contax T3 and Leica CM (I think so, cause I was told that the CM has a better galss than the Minilux owing to the better coating, but then again, I don't even know if we are able to see the difference in most circumstances). BTW, I read somewhere that there is a recall on the Leica CM, owing to some fault, but I cannot confirm this.

Each film PnS has it's unique stength, so there is not one which is outright better than the other. At the end of the day, it really depends on your style of photography or the specifications that you place more emphasis on.
 

I'm a great P&S fan - unobtrusive, easy to carry around, quick operation.

Here are my thoughts on the P&S cameras I own:

1. Olympus mju II - undoubtedly the best value. Cheap ($130-$150), small, light, easy operation, great lens. The exposure program is biased towards a large aperture (f2.8) and fast shutter speeds, so as to reduce camera shake. At the same time, gives you nice subject isolation (ie background blur) because of this. Has a spot meter, though I hardly use it. Max shutter speed is 1/1000 (which is pretty good for a P&S) allowing you to use high-speed film even in broad daylight. Very easy to turn on and off (clamshell design). Beautiful design - I love just fondling this camera. Active autofocus (use infrared beams) - very fast. There's a slight shutter lag (the camera locks AF on half-press shutter, but only moves the lens to the focus position on full shutter press, just before the shutter is released). AF and film advance is a bit noisy, but by the time the subject hears you the picture has already been taken. The flash is on auto by default, and requires two presses of the tiny button before switching to no-flash mode. But in daylight, the auto flash usually does not go off anyway.

2. Ricoh GR1V. A bit over-rated, but works as advertised. Small and compact, though not that light. Has a nice feel because of the slightly elongated body - easy to hold when shooting. Fairly silent operation, flash is set by a switch on the body and remains in the mode you selected. AF is passive contrast detection, so you can shoot through glass, just like an SLR. A bit slow to achieve AF, though, especially in low light. The viewfinder lets you know if AF has not been achieved. Nice wide 28mm lens, significant (non-barrel) distortion at the edges. The ability to set ISO is nice if you roll your own B&W film. Fairly sharp lens, but the contrast is not that great. The "P" exposure program selects f4 as a default - to use f2.8 you have to turn the dial, but then you risk overexposure if you forget to turn it back, because max shutter speed is 1/500 (1/250 at f2.8 if I remember correctly).

Will give my thoughts on Konica Hexar in another post. Have to run now.
 

3. Konica Hexar - not exactly a compact camera (it's about the size of a rangefinder like a Leica M), but definitely a point and shoot. The photo.net and cameraquest.com reviews of this camera basically say it all. I like the program mode a lot - you set the aperture at, say f2.0, and it will give you f2.0 aperture priority, unless it gets too bright, then it will go to a smaller aperture. I like the fact that there's no built-in flash, so you don't have to worry about the flash ever going off accidentally. It is REALLY quiet, even with the silver version I have, that does not have the stealth mode. It looks VERY handsome - makes me feel like James Bond when I'm wearing a suit and it's hanging around my neck.

If there's anything I can fault it for, it's the fact that the shutter button is a little too sensitive. It takes a very light touch to do the half-press shutter, and I have accidentally squeezed off an unintended shot quite a few times while trying to lock focus and recompose. It works best if you have the subject right in the centre and just press the shutter - a true point and shoot.
 

If you really wanted a good P&S with excellent optical quality, you should get Contax T3. Comes with a very good Carl Zeiss 35mm f2.8! And it had enough features for a little camera that makes it my fav.!
GR1v's 28mm is too wide of my normal snap-shoots and Leica Minilux's shutter lags are not for me.
Here is the link to some of the pictures that I had taken with it! :lovegrin: http://forums.clubsnap.org/showthread.php?t=64754
 

Wah, thanks all for your comments! MY friend got a Ricoh which he took some pics. Looks sharp. Will look at pics of Contax T3 and olympus mju II, Minilux and the Fuji 2.8
 

StreetShooter said:
I'm a great P&S fan - unobtrusive, easy to carry around, quick operation.

Here are my thoughts on the P&S cameras I own:

1. Olympus mju II - undoubtedly the best value. Cheap ($130-$150), small, light, easy operation, great lens. The exposure program is biased towards a large aperture (f2.8) and fast shutter speeds, so as to reduce camera shake. At the same time, gives you nice subject isolation (ie background blur) because of this. Has a spot meter, though I hardly use it. Max shutter speed is 1/1000 (which is pretty good for a P&S) allowing you to use high-speed film even in broad daylight. Very easy to turn on and off (clamshell design). Beautiful design - I love just fondling this camera. Active autofocus (use infrared beams) - very fast. There's a slight shutter lag (the camera locks AF on half-press shutter, but only moves the lens to the focus position on full shutter press, just before the shutter is released). AF and film advance is a bit noisy, but by the time the subject hears you the picture has already been taken. The flash is on auto by default, and requires two presses of the tiny button before switching to no-flash mode. But in daylight, the auto flash usually does not go off anyway.

2. Ricoh GR1V. A bit over-rated, but works as advertised. Small and compact, though not that light. Has a nice feel because of the slightly elongated body - easy to hold when shooting. Fairly silent operation, flash is set by a switch on the body and remains in the mode you selected. AF is passive contrast detection, so you can shoot through glass, just like an SLR. A bit slow to achieve AF, though, especially in low light. The viewfinder lets you know if AF has not been achieved. Nice wide 28mm lens, significant (non-barrel) distortion at the edges. The ability to set ISO is nice if you roll your own B&W film. Fairly sharp lens, but the contrast is not that great. The "P" exposure program selects f4 as a default - to use f2.8 you have to turn the dial, but then you risk overexposure if you forget to turn it back, because max shutter speed is 1/500 (1/250 at f2.8 if I remember correctly).

Will give my thoughts on Konica Hexar in another post. Have to run now.

SS,

sorry to OT.... which of the three do u use most in your street shooting?
 

CMan said:
Hi guys,

Just wanna know any good film p&s cemara to recommmend whether zoom or no zoom? Me saw some threads on Ricoh gr1v. Quite good reviews on it.

Thanks!


I have been using a Nikon 35 Ti to take family photos. Most of the time, the results are quite decent. In my opinion, a lot depends of the type of film you use and your framing. Its definitely a bonus to have manual control of some sorts.
 

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