All About The Olympus E-510 Thread


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Attended workshop by Lei Antonio on 26/7/07
He recommends general settings for newbies as follows:
1. picture mode- vivid or natural
contrast -2
sharpness +1
saturation +1
2. graduation -normal
3. use raw
4. use iso100 where possible
5. noise filter -low or standard
6. noise reduction off
7.focus centre spot
8. S-AF
9. anti-shock on
10. AF illum on
11.color space -sRGB
12.X-sync 1/125
13,AEL/AFL memo on
14.AEL metering -spot
PS: if errors above then it is my misunderstanding.
I will e-mail him to clarify if necessary

Why would you want anti-shock on for newbies? Does not make sense at all.

He did not recommend 'on' at all time lah... only in certain situation when needed... I went for a 'E-410 / E-510' workshop yesterday, 6th Aug. Strange there were ppl with E-330 & E-500, didn't they go a yr or more ago when they had the camera? Or maybe they bought it used & paid for this workshop... actually, if i have to pay for this workshop... i wouldn't go... ;p
 

Anyone knows whats the lowest temperature the E510 can operates in??... Will be going overseas at year end.... and its winter over there.... will it kena froze bite???

As long as you not going EXTREME places sure can work one. Else how you expect olympus to sell to places with winter climates??
 

I asked about Oly Studio 2.0. Keith said to about US$50, purchase online. I tried, but at the registry screen, don't have our country, so select other. The pricee listed is EURO 83.95 which is more than 2x US$50 :confused:
 

Internally, the condensation problem is real. And the circuits suffer. But then again, in temperate countries, the weather is dry, especially during winter. It is spring and summer that is worrying.

The U.S.A. is a pain, especially in November or April. I can drive from Florida where it's humid and rainy to somewhere north, where there is already snow and ice within just a few hours. You certainly have to let the equipment become acclimated to the local environment before using it.
 

What he meant was, when in LV x7 or x10, it is over exposed. I find that when in 7x or 10x, the brightness is auto adjusted. In his case, could be the moon did not cover the entire screen so it becomes over exposed and not able to see any details. Did your 200mm able to cover the entire screen when in LV x7 or x10 ? if so, can you see any details ?

The moon is not too bright tonight, will try when it's brighter...some other day..

any news splim? looks like no one here has actually encountered what i had.
 

any news splim? looks like no one here has actually encountered what i had.

Come to the next Kopi session lah.... and bring along the Moon :sweat: (a torch light and/or something that can create something like a moon) then can compare with others who has E510. The moon seems to be hiding around these day of the month.
 

Have been using the E510 for birding and so far find the IS performance effective for long lens, and in my case, with the Bigma (Sigma 50-500mm) at 500mm. It is possible to get sharp images as low as 1/60s. But of course the lower the shutter speed, the success rate is lower, but nevertheless even at 1/60s, it is > 50% sharp handheld, which I can never achieve without IS. For me, the main issue is hand holding the Bigma can be very tiring. I've used C brand in-lens IS and I can say Oly's in-camera IS is at least as good as C's. Only difference is the in-camera IS effect cannot be viewed thru the viewfinder, hence composing the shot is a little more difficult though it's just a matter of getting used to it.

Here's a sample shot at 1/60s, 1/100s and 1/250s:

1/60s
P7141667%20copy.jpg


1/100s
P8041876%20copy.jpg


1/250s
P8041871%20copy.jpg
 

Have been using the E510 for birding and so far find the IS performance effective for long lens, and in my case, with the Bigma (Sigma 50-500mm) at 500mm. It is possible to get sharp images as low as 1/60s. But of course the lower the shutter speed, the success rate is lower, but nevertheless even at 1/60s, it is > 50% sharp handheld, which I can never achieve without IS. For me, the main issue is hand holding the Bigma can be very tiring. I've used C brand in-lens IS and I can say Oly's in-camera IS is at least as good as C's. Only difference is the in-camera IS effect cannot be viewed thru the viewfinder, hence composing the shot is a little more difficult though it's just a matter of getting used to it.

Here's a sample shot at 1/60s, 1/100s and 1/250s:

1/60s
P7141667%20copy.jpg


1/100s
P8041876%20copy.jpg


1/250s
P8041871%20copy.jpg

wow.... great pics... 500mm hand held @ 1/60 still can be sooo sharp... ***bow***
is there any special training involve??... like yoga lessons etc??.
 

Awesome birding pics, Red-I!
I think I need to know what sort of handholding technique you use...
I can hardly manage to get a sharp picture below 1/50s (with IS) with my 50-200mm at its 200mm focal length.
 

mm they look unnaturally sharp... maybe it's just me. :dunno:
 

Have been using the E510 for birding and so far find the IS performance effective for long lens, and in my case, with the Bigma (Sigma 50-500mm) at 500mm. It is possible to get sharp images as low as 1/60s. But of course the lower the shutter speed, the success rate is lower, but nevertheless even at 1/60s, it is > 50% sharp handheld, which I can never achieve without IS. For me, the main issue is hand holding the Bigma can be very tiring. I've used C brand in-lens IS and I can say Oly's in-camera IS is at least as good as C's. Only difference is the in-camera IS effect cannot be viewed thru the viewfinder, hence composing the shot is a little more difficult though it's just a matter of getting used to it.

Good to see you back with Oly for birding!

P.S: the 50-200mm is doing a fantastic job for me. :thumbsup:
 

mm they look unnaturally sharp... maybe it's just me. :dunno:

I agree. There is a little over-sharpening in post. Might have to pull back about 30-40% to make it more natural.
 

wow.... great pics... 500mm hand held @ 1/60 still can be sooo sharp... ***bow***
is there any special training involve??... like yoga lessons etc??.


haha.... not yoga... but IS. Oly IS does work. :)
 

Awesome birding pics, Red-I!
I think I need to know what sort of handholding technique you use...
I can hardly manage to get a sharp picture below 1/50s (with IS) with my 50-200mm at its 200mm focal length.


Thanks cjtune. No special technique. Usually I try to rest my elbow on my tummy (a belly helps) and hold my breath. :)
 

Good to see you back with Oly for birding!

P.S: the 50-200mm is doing a fantastic job for me. :thumbsup:

Yes I'm back to Oly camp :) IS and high ISO performance of the E510 really helps when it comes to birding. Also, the Bigma provides sufficient reach now. I'm waiting for the new 50-200mm for flight shots. Can't wait to see how the new AF works.
 

Thanks cjtune. No special technique. Usually I try to rest my elbow on my tummy (a belly helps) and hold my breath. :)

haha u got tumi? :) hey back to Oly for birding....;)
 

Thanks cjtune. No special technique. Usually I try to rest my elbow on my tummy (a belly helps) and hold my breath. :)

I see... Maybe I can use my Lowepro Slingshot slung in front to approximate the usage of a large belly in this case...
 

Hi Schon and microcosm. Perhaps overzealous sharpening. The last step in my usual workflow is applying USM after reducing image size for web, setting at 150%, 0.5 pixel, 4 levels threshold.

Ok, now the image below is at 50%, 0.5 pixel instead:

P8041871%20copy2.jpg
 

haha u got tumi? :) hey back to Oly for birding....;)

Haha... a little bit of tummy lah... yes back to Oly. The IS and the ISO performance of the E510 really makes a difference. One last issue I have with Oly is the flash. It really eats batteries. But on balance, it's the lightest handholdable setup I can find. I don't have the physique to lug along a 5KG setup. Still have the C equipment. Will let go soon. :)
 

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