I can't remember whether it TOTALLY filled the LCD... but I definitely did not experience what schon did.
But basing on the size of the moon on the uncropped image, 10x probably would have about filled it... probably... :bsmilie:
All About The Olympus E-510 Thread
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I can't remember whether it TOTALLY filled the LCD... but I definitely did not experience what schon did.
But basing on the size of the moon on the uncropped image, 10x probably would have about filled it... probably... :bsmilie:
yup at 10x enlargement the moon did fill the screen entirely.
shouldn't the brightness during lv at 7x and 10x follow that of at 1x? :think:
btw nice shot of the moon there, albeit noisy.
yup at 10x enlargement the moon did fill the screen entirely.
shouldn't the brightness during lv at 7x and 10x follow that of at 1x? :think:
btw nice shot of the moon there, albeit noisy.
Can't be helped there; heavily cropped with noise filter off.
200mm just don't get you the magnification for moonshots.
E-410 may be a better buy than the E-510 if the IS yields a marginal result only.
http://www.popphoto.com/cameras/4380/camera-test-olympus-e-510-image-stabilization-page2.html
"We tested the full horizontal/ vertical IS in our lab, using DxO Analyzer 2.0 to analyze blur differences. These tests found that the E-510 added 1 to 1.5 stops of steadiness for handheld photos shot with a 300mm (equivalent) lens. (Our test lens was the 40-150mm f/4-5.6 kit lens set to 150mm for a 300mm equivalent field of view)."
http://www.popphoto.com/cameras/4380/camera-test-olympus-e-510-image-stabilization-page2.html
"We tested the full horizontal/ vertical IS in our lab, using DxO Analyzer 2.0 to analyze blur differences. These tests found that the E-510 added 1 to 1.5 stops of steadiness for handheld photos shot with a 300mm (equivalent) lens. (Our test lens was the 40-150mm f/4-5.6 kit lens set to 150mm for a 300mm equivalent field of view)."
That's not the real life experience I have with the IS of the E-510. It is much better than what's reported in Popular Photography. Of course, a lot also depends on how steady the photographer is when shooting hand-held.
I think for telephoto the effect for in body stablilzation is not that good. Common sense, there is only that much you can move the sensor.
But my experience with more regular focal range suggest more than 2 stops, around 2-3 stops. I think depends on individual but the IS of E510 is something which I was pleasantly surprised. The live view of the E510 though is a pale shadow of what is implemented in E330.
I second Tomcat's view here. I got very nice result from 14-54, 50mm and 150mm in real life too that I couldn't get in the past. Steady hand will further complement the IS.
1 more thing is E-510 is still better to hold compared to E-410 for me. When you are more comfortable with camera holding, you naturally get better steady shots too.... (Do I already missing my E-1....)
1 more thing is E-510 is still better to hold compared to E-410 for me. When you are more comfortable with camera holding, you naturally get better steady shots too.... (Do I already missing my E-1....)
Erm, should this logic apply to in-lens "OIS" stabilisation too? There's only so much you can move a floating lens element...
bousozoku
Senior Member
I've tried both and the feeling with the E-410 is that it's a replacement for the OM-1 or a glorified point-and-shoot, which it's not but it's meant to fill that gap. The E-510 feels more like a professional camera with its size, weight, and balance.
I'm not sure how much the IS really helps, but I'm sure it's better than what Popular Photography says. They've always been a joke of a magazine and haven't changed to my knowledge. It's okay to read it, I guess, but don't believe too much.
Aren't most of these 'popular' photography magazines (and websites... dpreview comes to mind) the same? Most of these reviews tend to swing according to how much ad revenue they receive from the manufacturer.
no, in lens stabilization allows you to tilt the angle of the light coming in. Not sure if it is done but theoretically it is possiblt to do it with in-lens stabilization. By tilting the angle, the focal length doesn't really matter.
I think this was what was written in one of the canon white papers regarding the adv of in-len stab over in-body stabilization. They say that their IS is optimized for DIFFERENT focal lengths. Different focal lengths requires different stabilizations.
I just realise the E510 Auto ISO works differently from E330. E330 auto ISO does not work in aperture more and now the E510 auto ISO works in aperture mode
Now I just set the ISO to Auto and it will choose between ISO100 and ISO400. It does not seems to take into account of IS though and tries to keep shutter speed faster than 1/2xfocallength.
Would be nice to be able to program the Auto ISO logic so that it keeps to like 1/focal length instead or something.
I was shooting something at 80mm (160mm eq) on my 40-150 and I realise that I can handhold 1/13 pretty easily. The IS seems to work really well for me IF I don't go below like 1/8. Beyong that it doesn't really help much.
Now I just set the ISO to Auto and it will choose between ISO100 and ISO400. It does not seems to take into account of IS though and tries to keep shutter speed faster than 1/2xfocallength.
Would be nice to be able to program the Auto ISO logic so that it keeps to like 1/focal length instead or something.
I was shooting something at 80mm (160mm eq) on my 40-150 and I realise that I can handhold 1/13 pretty easily. The IS seems to work really well for me IF I don't go below like 1/8. Beyong that it doesn't really help much.
bousozoku
Senior Member
It's partly true. I think dpreview only swings if the camera being reviewed is a Canon.
I read What Digital Camera because they tell it like it is. I still remember Popular Photography from the 1970s when I started with an SLR and they got simple things wrong. Someone on another website recently posted "an excellent article" they did on the Olympus macro lenses. They started off by reversing the timeline of the lenses. Yes, I like precision.
The E-510 (and the E-410) is a really nice camera at the price point and I think that's obvious to a lot of people, including the product planners at Nikon, otherwise there probably wouldn't be a D40x. The E-510 makes the Canon 400D look overpriced.
Anyone knows whats the lowest temperature the E510 can operates in??... Will be going overseas at year end.... and its winter over there.... will it kena froze bite???
I have used the Olympus cameras, both pro and prosumers at sub temperatures as low as -5 C and had no problems. But watch out for condensation as you move from cold to warm... warm to cold... water trapped inside the camera, and move outside, can cause ice to form. So this is something to watch out. Also, if you are really operating the cameras in such extreme temperatures, you should be wearing gloves just in case. Thin glove with thick outer to fight the weather. There was a lengthy discussion sometime back, and you can search the forums for the information.
My oly 5050 has gone thru winters as cold as -30 to -40 deg C. It has even been out in the car overnight in such temperatures. It continued to work and did not break down. However, at these cold temps, the LCD and the battery start to perform suboptimally. For example, you will see significant lag on your LCD and the battery life may become very short. However, for most parts if you keep the camera near you, even if the temp is -10 deg C, your body heat will help warm it up some. The issue of condensation is real and is more of a nuisance because of lens fogging. I am not sure in the long run, there is a concern of rust etc. The 5050 did not give any problems to suggest that.
Internally, the condensation problem is real. And the circuits suffer. But then again, in temperate countries, the weather is dry, especially during winter. It is spring and summer that is worrying.
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