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thought they looked familiar ;) http://www.dpreview.com/news/0309/03092201pentaxistdsamps.asp

I haven't tried developing b&w negatives at room temp, but IMO it isn't too difficult or messy to achieve the exact temps required for developing. Here's what I do for the developer. It's usually cold due to refridgeration (<20 degrees) but when its mixed with tap water (usually at 1+2...

Some tanks require only 600ml 2 rolls so you could probably survive on 400ml for 1 roll. If you're developing 1 roll, do remember to put the 2nd empty reel in as well. The empty reel will of course be on top of the reel with film. An excellent website containing many developing times is...

I'm quite satisfied with the results from this lens, its great value for money, getting HSM on a 180mm f3.5 macro. The pictures on this webpage were taken with the lens, though some of the more closeup ones were with a PK13 tube added on...

well, the lens isn't out yet, so I guess the poster's right as of now. any idea when this lens is coming out?

i used to use KJ extensively but stopped after realising (from slide scanning) that my slides were sometimes scratched! switched to RGB which was cheaper as well. you'll get a discount on E6 if you're a SAFRA member.

you might want to mess around with the dutone / tritone options as well... you can also get a sepia effect, but with more control over the shade of sepia.

nice clouds! would look super on infrared b&w :-)

There's just no substitute to getting B&W prints done yourself in a darkroom. No Noritsu is going to replicate those results for you! You'll have to weigh in the additional effort and cost needed to print those pictures yourself though. IMHO, prints done at the shop lack contrast and texture...

I'll second that... the 20mm AFD f2.8 lens is the wtg

The differences between a 2.8 and 4 lens would be more pronounced at longer focal lengths because you'd be able to see better bokeh effects and shallower DOF. However, 2.8 lenses are usually infused with all the goodies a lens mfg can also offer. So regardless of focal length, you usually get...

Yeh the shop on 2nd floor of Peninsula Plaza (forgot the name, but its the one directly in front of the escalator from 1st to 2nd floor)... can't recall price either, but its some ridiculous amount.

Does anyone know when these 2 babies will be released in Singapore?

With ISO1600 film loaded, you set your camera's ISO dial to ISO3200 to push by a stop. Pushing usually brings out more grain, higher contrast and some color shift. Good luck with the shoot :) yeah nick came from B5... still disappointed they canceled the spinoffs.

That is: 1600x1200 (2MP) is best viewed with 800x600 screen, 2048x1536 (3MP) is best viewed with 1024x768 screen. Hmm, I'm not sure how screens work, here's my take, see if it makes any sense. That means you're viewing the image at less than 100% magnification. It might appear sharper...

i'd recommend the Fuji Superia 1600 or its professional equivalent. you can even push both by a stop if necessary.

a faster lens will only offer you 1-2 stops more light, which might not be enough even with faster film. if the light is really low, getting the camera to AF may be difficult at best. a flash however, will give you the exposure you need provided the subject is within the flash's output...

You're taking a risk using expired films, "problems" such as color shifts (slide films) and loss of contrast (black & white films) usually occur. Unless your subject matter doesn't justify buying a fresh roll of film, or you're cross-processing (then expired films become the choice film), I'd...

the lens specs not so good leh... quite a slow zoom :(

Anything to do with computers and you have to follow Moore's Law. I wouldn't be surprised if, at Photokina 2005, Kodak announces a 88 Mpixel sensor. It seems to be however, that we're going to hit a limit whereby the camera lens becomes the limiting factor to resolution.