CANON G10 techniques...anyone?

[ddaktiv]

Hi All,
I just bought a canon g10 ... i was wondering if at night what setting do i use for fast moving cars? how about moving subjects?
I got a few shots but most were blurry...
I'm new to photography...been reading a few books but so far still couldnt get it right... i know g10 isnt exactly dslr yet but is it really that not-able?

 

[ZerocoolAstra]

fast moving cars at night? Wow... I think that's damn near impossible with a DSLR, let alone a G10.
Try in the day first, when the light is better.
Are you trying to 'freeze' the moving subject and make the background blur?
Then you have to practise your panning action. Track your moving target in your viewfinder and follow it. Fire off the shutter release whilst tracking. Still need a fairly quick shutter speed.

 

[HHenrYY]

TS is trying to do panning or do night photography with the tail-lights due to long shutterspeed one?

 

[Snoweagle]

fast moving cars at night? Wow... I think that's damn near impossible with a DSLR, let alone a G10.
Try in the day first, when the light is better.
Are you trying to 'freeze' the moving subject and make the background blur?
Then you have to practise your panning action. Track your moving target in your viewfinder and follow it. Fire off the shutter release whilst tracking. Still need a fairly quick shutter speed.

Who ever told u that?? Have u owned a DSLR and tried it before??

 

[ZerocoolAstra]

Who ever told u that?? Have u owned a DSLR and tried it before??

oooops. My bad. :sweat:
Didn't consider all the possibilities I guess.
I was imagining the TS trying to catch pictures a-la Formula 1, but without the big floodlights.
Do tell how I could capture such a shot, say of a car moving at 50km/h along Orchard Road at 10pm, with the ambient light and my pop-up flash. Am interested to know.

 

[Snoweagle]

oooops. My bad. :sweat:
Didn't consider all the possibilities I guess.
I was imagining the TS trying to catch pictures a-la Formula 1, but without the big floodlights.
Do tell how I could capture such a shot, say of a car moving at 50km/h along Orchard Road at 10pm, with the ambient light and my pop-up flash. Am interested to know.

If F1 nite race without the floodlights, who would dare to even race?? :dunno:

In fact, SG's street lightings are pretty adequate and u dun even need to use flash in some cases. Just put to AI Servo mode, open to the largest aperture and bump up your ISO.

 

[rgy1993]

If F1 nite race without the floodlights, who would dare to even race?? :dunno:

In fact, SG's street lightings are pretty adequate and u dun even need to use flash in some cases. Just put to AI Servo mode, open to the largest aperture and bump up your ISO.

good luck

 

[Snoweagle]

good luck

Hello, i said street lighting, not HDB flat lighting.

 

[Rashkae]

Hi All,
I just bought a canon g10 ... i was wondering if at night what setting do i use for fast moving cars? how about moving subjects?
I got a few shots but most were blurry...
I'm new to photography...been reading a few books but so far still couldnt get it right... i know g10 isnt exactly dslr yet but is it really that not-able?

Have you read your manual? I believe it describes the concept of "panning", especially in the section describing the autofocus modes.

 

[calebk]

If F1 nite race without the floodlights, who would dare to even race?? :dunno:

In fact, SG's street lightings are pretty adequate and u dun even need to use flash in some cases. Just put to AI Servo mode, open to the largest aperture and bump up your ISO.

Show us an example please.

 

[ZerocoolAstra]

ok ok... just to establish my initial assumption, which may or may not be right.
When I read TS' first post, I assumed that he meant to capture a moving object by panning and firing, but at night using just his G10.

So my first thoughts were a road like Orchard road, fairly well lit but nowhere near like the Marina Bay F1 circuit during the race.
Based on my previous attempts with my DSLR in the day [so that sort of answers the point of "have you owned a DSLR and tried it before?"], I required a fairly high shutter speed of at least 1/125s to sufficiently freeze the 'target'. I seriously doubt I can achieve such a shot with my DSLR kit in the night, hence my conclusion "damn near impossible with DSLR".
Maybe if I had a 5D with f/1.2L lens, might be possible la, coz I could bump up the ISO really high. But I haven't struck 4D yet...

 

[bomby929]

ok ok... just to establish my initial assumption, which may or may not be right.
When I read TS' first post, I assumed that he meant to capture a moving object by panning and firing, but at night using just his G10.

So my first thoughts were a road like Orchard road, fairly well lit but nowhere near like the Marina Bay F1 circuit during the race.
Based on my previous attempts with my DSLR in the day [so that sort of answers the point of "have you owned a DSLR and tried it before?"], I required a fairly high shutter speed of at least 1/125s to sufficiently freeze the 'target'. I seriously doubt I can achieve such a shot with my DSLR kit in the night, hence my conclusion "damn near impossible with DSLR".
Maybe if I had a 5D with f/1.2L lens, might be possible la, coz I could bump up the ISO really high. But I haven't struck 4D yet...

It can be done.. even at super low light.. just bump the ISO to 25,600.. but no one saying much have super picture quality with clean zero noise... ;p

 

[aryanto]

for panning shot you rely on slower than normal sutter speed.
panning shot is never easy to get, even under bright sunlight, you could pan faster than the object in focus and dont get it.
you could pan slower than the object in focus and dont get it.
the object in focus could change speed and you pan with constant speed.
you could choose wrong place to pan and object move in curve that is not cylindrical and suay suay your DOF is not enough to compensate
it is moving object and your cam focus at wrong object while you pan (well this can be fixed by using center focus AF only)
object moves erratically (eg car overtaking suddenly, breaking suddenly).

if you just want good movement effect, try slower shutter speed, and 2nd curtain flash. You will get car shot with tail light trail but the background is sharp (not blur like panning shot)

 

[skyfokker]

The G10 suffers from a long list of 'problems' compared to DSLRs making it a less than ideal candidate for action, especially sports photography.

1) Shutter lag
2) High signal to noise ratio (noisy)
3) Slow and inefficient AF
4) slow continuous drive

However, it is possible to take some decent pictures of action (even F1) provided you do a few things:

1) Ensure the scene is lit at a constant illumination level. (not in sunny day when sun pops in and out of the clouds). Even street lights are acceptable.

2) Shoot at ISO between 400 and 800 (higher ISO makes the files pretty nasty)

3) Shoot from a 3/4 front on angle as this angle makes freezing action much more possible and easier than from the side/profile.

4) Set your camera on manual exposure and manual focusing, max aperture and continuous. Shoot off a few shots prior to the moment to ensure your focus and exposure are spot on.

5) Try to be physically as near as possible to the action and not zoom in all the way as IS is not as effective and max aperture has been reduced.

You will probably not get great pictures but perhaps good and nice ones from there.

 

[ZerocoolAstra]

It can be done.. even at super low light.. just bump the ISO to 25,600.. but no one saying much have super picture quality with clean zero noise... ;p

errrr.... I turn and turn the command dial, but how come I don't see ISO 25,600??
Oh..... not enough $$$$, that's why....

The G10 suffers from a long list of 'problems' compared to DSLRs making it a less than ideal candidate for action, especially sports photography.

1) Shutter lag
2) High signal to noise ratio (noisy)
3) Slow and inefficient AF
4) slow continuous drive

However, it is possible to take some decent pictures of action (even F1) provided you do a few things:

1) Ensure the scene is lit at a constant illumination level. (not in sunny day when sun pops in and out of the clouds). Even street lights are acceptable.

2) Shoot at ISO between 400 and 800 (higher ISO makes the files pretty nasty)

3) Shoot from a 3/4 front on angle as this angle makes freezing action much more possible and easier than from the side/profile.

4) Set your camera on manual exposure and manual focusing, max aperture and continuous. Shoot off a few shots prior to the moment to ensure your focus and exposure are spot on.

5) Try to be physically as near as possible to the action and not zoom in all the way as IS is not as effective and max aperture has been reduced.

You will probably not get great pictures but perhaps good and nice ones from there.

thumbs up! Good techniques. Will try when possible.

 

[ortega]

you can also use flash to freeze the moving subject

 

[ZerocoolAstra]

i tried that before... the driver thought I was a copper (coz it was quite dark) hiding in wait. Saw the flash, hit the brakes... haha.

 

[bomby929]

you can also use flash to freeze the moving subject

Flash not power enough.. and I think (not too sure) F1 cannot use flash..

 

[osocan]

i tried that before... the driver thought I was a copper (coz it was quite dark) hiding in wait. Saw the flash, hit the brakes... haha.

 

[ZerocoolAstra]

Flash not power enough.. and I think (not too sure) F1 cannot use flash..

yeah I think F1 cannot use flash.... although I'm not sure leh. I'm sure there must have been hundreds of 'idiots' with their PnS cameras set to night mode, trying to capture the action.

anyway I don't think TS is referring to F1 exactly. Maybe he's trying to photograph his car, or his friend's car travelling along a street, in the evening (i.e. street lighting).