Why like that?

[GmbH.]

well, flash and focus assist light is 2 diff things.
and even if u on ur focus assist light, subject A will still not be focused if u AF lock on subject B

there is something called using a smaller aperture and hyper focussing.
also you can always prefocus or recompose.

 

[longkangman]

well, flash and focus assist light is 2 diff things.
and even if u on ur focus assist light, subject A will still not be focused if u AF lock on subject B

:lovegrin: :thumbsup:

 

[ah.zeep]

yes it would be out of focus if ur AE-lock button is also ur AF-lock/Shutter-release button.
tat is to say, if u have to AE lock by aiming to the sky, half press shutter and hold, re-compose. then yes, u would not be focusing on the sky. if ur camera does not have different buttons for AF-lock and AE-lock, sorry, i cannot think of a way to help u at the moment.... ill post if i think of a solution.

sorry

The EXIF data from the JPG indicate it's a Canon Powershot A75... I suppose this is one of those models that can do separate AE/AF-locks? Dunno, I dunno anything about Canon...

 

[Zaknafein]

there is something called using a smaller aperture and hyper focussing.
also you can always prefocus or recompose.

the TS just said he doesnt have manual exposure settings. if his camera does not have manual exposure settings, do u think TS will be able to hyperfocus?
i know there's such a thing as AF locking and recompose. but ur not getting the TS's question. pls read his question again.

 

[Zaknafein]

erm, nope i do not think A75 has seperate AE and AF lock buttons. i know my A95, which is a newer model of A75, doesnt have

 

[GmbH.]

the TS just said he doesnt have manual exposure settings. if his camera does not have manual exposure settings, do u think TS will be able to hyperfocus?
i know there's such a thing as AF locking and recompose. but ur not getting the TS's question. pls read his question again.

alright.
no need to be rude.

you can do the honour of answering and helping then.

cheers

 

[Zaknafein]

?? when was i rude man? :dunno:

 

[ExplorerZ]

since he using A75, and i assume all canon A serious got manual mode, all he got to do is focus as usually and decrease the ev compensation after the first shot which doesn't contain detail of blue sky. do trial and error and slowly get more accurate.

for TS, beaware that if you do this, or any of the other method mention by other (except for the merging and using of grad ND method) ur foreground will be underexposed. just to inform you before you post another thread on "why my foreground so dark?"

 

[Clockunder]

i was very disappointed when the skies came out like this even though it was supposed to blue sky.

That day was bright, and i was wondering what casued the sky to be so over exposed?

and how to correct that?






thanks in advance..

Just to add to what others have said.

The reason for the sky to appear over-exposed is that the tonal range (brightness level differences between the bightest and the darkest part) of the scene is far greater than what the camera's CCD image sensor can capture.

Most digital cameras can capture only about 6 to 8 stops of tonal (dynamic) range but your scene has much more than that (possibly 10 and above). So if you expose the foreground (which is far darker than the sky) correctly, then the sky would have a brightness which is beyond your camera sensor's max. limit. For all brightness beyond the max. limit your camera sensor can capture correctly, their data will be recorded as being having the maximum brightness (i.e. R=255, B=255 and G=255) and would therefore appear as white (i.e. over-exposed).

That also means that if you expose the sky correctly in this kind of high tonal range scene, you would get under-exposed foreground.

To avoid this, shoot when the tonal (dynamic) range of the scene within 6-8 stops ......... i.e. such as when the sky is not so bright relative to the foreground or when there is sun light illuminating the foreground.

As mentioned by others, other solutions are use a GND filter to cut down the brightness of the sky only or use a tripod to take a few pictures at different exposures and then do some digital combining (such as HDR (High Dynamic Range) merge or manually cutting + paste) or in some cases, lowering down the contrast in your camera settings.

 

[dawgbyte77]

Honestly I would agree with the decision your camera made and the exposure you have done. If you expose on the sky the rest will be dark and will even be worst... imagine blue sky and black something all over the photo. What I would do is use PS and then Hue and Saturation, and then use thr color dropper to select the sky and increase the blue.. can even use gradient so it looks more drama... alternately can use Color Range and "replace" your white sky to blue. No need to merge since either way is unrealistic anyway.

* The other ideas will also work but mine is the lazy-don't-wanna-carry-tripod and El-cheapo-don't-wanna-buy-filters-except-UV method.

 

[CasonLyn]

lets say theres people in the foreground, then if i focus on the sky, wouldn't the people be out of focus?

as mentioned, if you want the sky, best not to take at afternoon wif the sun out in full force.

If no choice, then maybe you can spot meter somewhere where brightness is in between the darkest and brightest part of the scene, then recompose and shoot.

Use AE lock also. Half press shutter to meter, press AElock button, release shutter, recompose and focus on you subject and shoot.

 

[CasonLyn]

erm, nope i do not think A75 has seperate AE and AF lock buttons. i know my A95, which is a newer model of A75, doesnt have

You can work around it by using the manual focus button. half press shutter to focus on your subject, press MF button to get focus lock, release shutter button, point to sky, half press shutter to get AE lock, recompose and shoot. hope it helps.

 

[janzguy81]

Hi, this is an interesting topic that every photographers might have faced in their shooting. Thanks!

Personally, I feel that merging of separate pics of different exposure levels wouldnt be realistic bcos there might be human or moving subjects in the scene. It is still a feasible method though.

I havent used a grad ND filter so can't comment on that.

Usually, I would just underexpose the scene and use PS to adjust the curves to bring up the underexposed scene.

Now I am wondering, does taking the pic in raw format helps? I thought it may include all details at a higher tonal range?

Cheers,
janz

 

[Del_CtrlnoAlt]

for anything else... there is still photoshop...

if got any color cast or watsoever... dun blame me, cos i can't see colors hor...

 

[ortega]

i kapo add on to what DCA did

 

[pai]

the TS just said he doesnt have manual exposure settings. if his camera does not have manual exposure settings, do u think TS will be able to hyperfocus?
i know there's such a thing as AF locking and recompose. but ur not getting the TS's question. pls read his question again.

hi, glad we're all trying to help each other, hope you guys don't mind if i chip in a bit.

a) the A75 has manual exposure settings, that's one of the major selling points of this series of canon compacts. just set the exposure program dial to M.

b) i don't think manual exposure settings have anything to do with hyperfocal settings. one is about aperture and shutter settings, the other is about aperture, focal length, focusing distance.

c) actually, you can sort of use hyperfocal distance with the A75. check this link. (may load slowly)

d) anyway, hyperfocal distance isn't really the best way of dealing with metering on the sky and focusing on the foreground. would be easier to use manual mode or exposure compensation to get the metering right, and focus (and recompose) to get the focusing right.

e) as for the original question(s), well i agree with some of the other guys. the overexposed sky is because the dynamic range of the scene is too great, and the camera chose to expose for the foreground. and i think in this case it's a good thing, since the foreground is the subject.

besides all the stuff about RAW (don't think your camera has that option), tripods and GNDs, maybe consider changing the time or angle of your shoot so that the lighting doesn't create such a great contrast. also consider framing the shot with less sky in it. these aren't perfect solutions, but they'll help some, and aren't a lot of trouble.

 

[Del_CtrlnoAlt]

i kapo add on to what DCA did

cheem... how u overlay the clouds ar?

 

[ortega]

cheem... how u overlay the clouds ar?

no overlay

the clouds and sky are one image
i just delete the white sky and try to balance the colour of the sky and the foreground
the sky in both pictures are the same, just different layers

 

[bent]

yes it would be out of focus if ur AE-lock button is also ur AF-lock/Shutter-release button.
tat is to say, if u have to AE lock by aiming to the sky, half press shutter and hold, re-compose. then yes, u would not be focusing on the sky. if ur camera does not have different buttons for AF-lock and AE-lock, sorry, i cannot think of a way to help u at the moment.... ill post if i think of a solution.

sorry

er...wats the diff btw AE lock and AF lock

i only know my cam got AF lock

ok, so far i think i understabnd the part about AF lock andt stuff la...shall try that

and btw, nice photoshop skills!

 

[bent]

ahhh! i've just thought of a solution.
does ur camera have an adjustable focus point? as in u can move the point of focus to, lets say, the bottom left of the screen?
if it does, move the focus point to the human in the foreground. however, the the metering will still be at the CENTER of the frame, so u can meter the sky while still focusing else where. do u get what i mean? :think:

ermx :dunno:

sorry i know nuts abt metering and stuff