mccm33 said:
That's what the poster said already in the first place, so no idea why he even asked about it.
Sony DSC-RX100
- Thread starter frederickykfoo
- Start date
That's what the poster said already in the first place, so no idea why he even asked about it.
Hi all, been a while since I shared on Clubsnap. Just sharing some pics that I took with the RX-100 when I went for a short holiday to Cambodia.
Very light setup - 1 x RX100 (mainly in toy camera mode and warm white balance); 1 x portable charger; 1 x iPad with Snapseed. Quite happy with most of the pics
Photographing Cambodia with the RX100 | illuminate!
Awesome pictures taken with rx100!
Folks,
I have read from jan 2013 onwards but can't find any details about HK source.
My friend is going to HK today thus wondering if anyone has any info to share like the latest pricing and location to purchase the cam.
Appreciate your sharing. Thks
I have read from jan 2013 onwards but can't find any details about HK source.
My friend is going to HK today thus wondering if anyone has any info to share like the latest pricing and location to purchase the cam.
Appreciate your sharing. Thks
The black and white stuff is mostly with Snapseed - actually all goes through Snapseed for sharpens and levels. I like the vintage filter for the slight blue tint. In terms of intensity, in Toy mode the stuff is pretty saturated and when you reduce the levels it's going to be punchy. But all that said, once you've been to Cambodia and see the sunset you'll see why the intensity is that high when you underexpose slightly
Edit: I typically take photos this way: I expose as high as possible without clipping; bring it back down in post for the blacks. I find this maximizes detail and colors. Perfect exposure really only works in event photography and is something I used to do for the D2x or D3 when I was working with Willy on live-shoot projects. Of course with those cameras you could load in your custom curves which does the same effect.
Edit2: Also, you can sue me and what not but I'm a jpg shooter. I just don't have the time, energy or diskspace(!!) to really bother with RAWs especially for personal stuff.
Last edited:
That's what the poster said already in the first place, so no idea why he even asked about it.
Hahaha... that's not post-processing... it's just one of the modes on camera... I was expecting him to process it in Photoshop for those effects... I didn't realise that the camera's onboard processing ability was that good... anyway I don't like such effects and never use them... so I thought it was done in Photoshop...
The black and white stuff is mostly with Snapseed - actually all goes through Snapseed for sharpens and levels. I like the vintage filter for the slight blue tint. In terms of intensity, in Toy mode the stuff is pretty saturated and when you reduce the levels it's going to be punchy. But all that said, once you've been to Cambodia and see the sunset you'll see why the intensity is that high when you underexpose slightly
Edit: I typically take photos this way: I expose as high as possible without clipping; bring it back down in post for the blacks. I find this maximizes detail and colors. Perfect exposure really only works in event photography and is something I used to do for the D2x or D3 when I was working with Willy on live-shoot projects. Of course with those cameras you could load in your custom curves which does the same effect.
Edit2: Also, you can sue me and what not but I'm a jpg shooter. I just don't have the time, energy or diskspace(!!) to really bother with RAWs especially for personal stuff.
Totally agree with the JPEG thing... I prefer to shoot JPEG... the workflow with RAW and the space required and the horsepower to pay for is just too great...
Interesting... must ask you to elaborate on the expose as high as possible without clipping and bring it back down for post... what do you bring down at post? Levels? I typically find myself using curves and shadow/highlights to bring out the shadows... this often creates noise (on at A900) which I dislike... and also flattens the contrast... would be good to learn new post techniques from the pros... I usually ignore my highlights (hahaha....) but usually they are not blown lar unless the lighting is very extreme... but the shadows are often troublesome... A900 doesn't like low light exposures... very noisy very quickly...
EDIT: Completely noob question - what's Snapseed? Sounds like a mobile app name? I don't use Apple...
After. Snapseed is available on Android too by the way, just did a quick check on Google.
I'm not a pro, but this is what my experience dictates. If you post process by bringing the levels (i.e. overall brightness or what not) up, you will introduce artifacts or noise. If you expose "as high as possible" or have the photos fairly bright, you bring the levels down with post (you can take your pick but I love shadows in my pics and some vignetting). This way it doesn't introduce noise. Noise is a byproduct of amplification (i.e. you trying to make it brighter when the data isn't really there).
In old film speak, you expose for the shadows.
Edit2: for typos and stuff
Last edited:
Snapseed is basically free for all the major mobile platforms. With it I don't even really bother with photoshop - this is so great especially with dive trips because of all the cropping and sometimes color correction involved. Photos take like 30 secs to get nicely processed and finished. Yes, in the old film days the developer did it for you... but even then avid photographers processed photos themselves
Last edited:
Ah I see what you mean... you're shooting the film way... expose to the right for the shadows... and to hell with the highlights... that works for film as the roll-off is much gentler... for digital, especially the early sensors, the highlight clipping was very severe... actually I do that too... but still, sometimes, the highlight clipping is too severe even though the highlight roll-off for the A900 is already one of the best... I prefer a more natural look, without dramatic shadows and high saturation levels... thanks!
Actually I don't. I care very much about the highlights which is why I meant expose as high as possible without clipping or as much as you find acceptable. This isn't always easy to achieve and it's a balance (and no, I've never had a liking for HDR images - that's the ultimate in terms "unrealistic" for me) especially if you're like me and have a strong preference for back/side-lighted images. As for why? I think the reason is you really couldn't do that much with film for a backlighted image. You take those and hope for the best. With digital the results are almost instantaneous and you have the option of adjusting settings (metering; exposure settings etc) to get it to how you envisioned it. All that said, I think the RX-100's range is actually pretty good (in fact I make it worse by using the in-camera photo filters, but i'm a sucker for vignettes for my personal stuff it seems ><)
As for personal preferences on colour and post, I'll say it changes with time and age. I used to be into hyper-saturated; hyper-sharpened. Now i'm into shadows and shadow detail; motion in images. Who knows what I'll be into next? heh.
Thanks for the great discussion.
No worries on sharing - I don't think I shared that much there compared to the other contributors on Illuminate blog, but I'm glad you found it useful!
What I was trying to find out was how RiStaR exposed his images... usually in a single exposure, and with very high contrast (that is very bright parts of the image (highlights) and very dark parts of the image (shadows)), you have to expose for the highlights or for the shadows. You can't expose for both cos the camera sensor isn't like the human eye... there is a limit to how much information it can collect... so if you expose for the highlights, the shadows (dark parts) tend to be totally black - there's no detail... but if you expose for the shadows, the highlights (bright parts) tend to be totally white - there's no detail. So short doing a HDR (stacking a few shots exposing for different parts of highlights and shadows), we could try to expose for the shadows as much as possible but not such that the highlights are totally white without any detail (or what is commonly termed as information). Once that shot is taken, it can be edited in Photoshop. Photoshop has a tool called Shadows/Highlights. You can slide the Highlights slider to the right and it will try to recover as much of the highlights (which are totally white or almost white) and restore some of the detail that is hidden under the whiteness... these type of highlights are called blown highlights (you blew away the details). So the tricky bit is how to find the balance where the shadows are exposed sufficiently for the detail but the highlights are not completely blown...
This is an issue mainly for very high contrast situations... e.g. shooting someone's face when the sun is shining directly at you into your lens - in such a case, the person you're shooting will look totally black, while the background will probably be well-exposed as your camera will probably expose for the larger and brighter background... so if you start to expose for the face only (via manual metering or exposure locking), then the background in your shot will look totally white or almost totally white... which looks super ugly and pretty useless cos you haven't captured the background as you wished... hence the need to balance exposing so that the face is not totally black, and the sky not totally white...
Hope this helps you along...
Similar threads
