Some queries on Rangefinders

[rebbot]

Hi all,

I am new to rangefinders and am in the process of trying to get one.

Am wondering if it is too difficult to actually use grad filters particularly? Reason being that I do a lot of landscapes and usually use soft grad ND and blue filters. It would help if someone could drop me a tip or 2.

It also seems that different rangefinders also meter through different mechanism, for example, the xpan meters through it lenses using center-weighted while the mamiya 7 meters through the body using spot. I hope I am correct here. :sweat:

Cheers and thanks in advance!

 

[fastshot]

No precise way to use the graduated filters with rangefinder.
What I do first is to decide on the framing and fix the exposure settings. Then based on the about of bright areas (sky) I handhold the graduated filter in front of the lens by the same approximate level (usually the dark/light boundary about midway) and fire away.

You are correct that the Mamiya 7 & 7II meters via a centre spot in the rangefinder. Bear in mind that the metering spot remains in the centre even though the framing lines will move for parallex adjustment. In any case, my habit with rangefinders is to use a separate compact handheld incident light meter instead of depending on the build in meter.

 

[rebbot]

No precise way to use the graduated filters with rangefinder.
What I do first is to decide on the framing and fix the exposure settings. Then based on the about of bright areas (sky) I handhold the graduated filter in front of the lens by the same approximate level (usually the dark/light boundary about midway) and fire away.

You are correct that the Mamiya 7 & 7II meters via a centre spot in the rangefinder. Bear in mind that the metering spot remains in the centre even though the framing lines will move for parallex adjustment. In any case, my habit with rangefinders is to use a separate compact handheld incident light meter instead of depending on the build in meter.

Thanks for your reply! I was actually thinking of using the cokin filter holder and its range of filters.

Its still all about agaration in the end. I was hoping to rely on the built-in meter as it seems to be quite reliable for most of my mates. Also the reason being that in some situations, I might not be able to bring along a lightmeter and not have one in hand.

I was also thinking if I were to use a polariser, is there a need to compensate the exposure for the mamiya 7/ 7II? As for the Xpan, since it meters through the lenses, there isn't a need to do so right?

Cheers!

 

[fastshot]

I have the cokin filter holder but found that it is not so useful. Just use agaration method and have less stuff to meddle with in front of the lens.
The meter of the Mamiya 7/7II is quite accurate (since it is not so prone to stray light) and can be used for grab shots.
Hard core range finder shooters tends to preset the speed & F stop for the situation they are in, and also likely focus point (usually mid point or hyperfocal distance), and then simply frame and fire off when a picture situation arises. Some people can "read" the light quite accurately and hence don't need a handheld meter. The Glossen digital flash compact is very small and handy.
There is a special polarizer filter which allows you to swing the filter in front of the rangefinder and allows you to meter through it. I think this is just being fancy and not really necessary. Simply adjust the exposure +1.5 stops via exposure compensation dial or manual settings. Again, I would just hold the polarizer by hand in front of the lens after determine the relative angle via my eyes. Get a 77mm polarizer so that it can cover all the lens diameter.

While I think the Xpan is a very reputable camera, you may want to consider that the Mamiya 7 will provide you with a much larger negative. With the 6x7 neg, you can maximise it for regular sized prints or you can always crop it down to panorama size like the Xpan. The Mamiya 43mm is an awesome lens that is essentially a Biogon type design. The 65mm and 80mm are excellent for street and environmental portraits. The longer lens (150/200) are harder to focus accurately for close range subjects as is the case for all rangefinders.

 

[Macky]

I'm not an expert on rangefinders (mostly use my DSLR) although I have the Xpan II, Bessa L and Bessa R3A. So I'm just sharing my experience with them. I find that when using the Xpan in panoramic mode, the metering can be tricky if your shot has a large dynamic range. I usually just point the center of the viewfinder at various contrasting areas and get an average from there. Doesn't work all the time. Perhaps a handheld meter might be better. Never tried. Focussing on the Xpan in pano mode is easy when you take landscapes, just put to infinity. But for close subjects is more difficult! The focussing spot is just a tiny area in the big viewfinder. But I suppose its the same for other rangefinders. The Bessa L is not actually a rangefinder. I use it with the 15mm lens. Even more difficult to meter!! The R3A on the other hand is very easy to use but the lens I'm using it with, 40mm, is a bit tough to focus becos the lens is quite small and the focussing ring is rather stiff.

I think all the difficulities I listed just boils down to not enough practise with the equipment. I think if you've never used a rangefinder before, it really takes some getting used to! Focussing, especially, on a rangefinder is a totally different kettle of fish compared to a SLR.