i thought i might just do a quick guide on what filter/conversion u might want to use.
this might be helpful for people who wanna try IR but have no idea what mod/filter to use.
I faced the same problem when deciding on starting IR photography.
Most of our cameras are never meant to shoot/ see IR.
but we are, IR photographers. we want IR:bsmilie:
As far as i know, there are 3 types of methods for you to shoot IR.
1) Screw on Filter, no modifications
2) Modded camera with IR filter (replacement of IR cutoff with IR only filter)
3) Full Spec camera (replacement of IR cutoff with glass)
3 different types of filters, 3 very different types of effects.
Lets take a look at the first type.
1) Screw on Filter, no modifications
These are filters (hoya r72, citiwide 720nm) that u simply screw on ur lens and shoot with.
The advantages are that these are significantly cheaper (citiwide is cheap. around 60 max for a 77mm) and u do not need to modify the camera.
Also, u have the choice to change the IR filters, from a r72, to an ELP and even to a 1000nm one.
However, the downsides are that u cannot view through viewfinder to see what ur shooting. (filter only allows IR. u cannot see visible light).
Also, due to the presence of the IR blocking in camera, it only allows long exposures, which means u cant shoot anything moving, unless blur intended.
exposure time can range anywhere between 1 seconds to 30 seconds, or even more.
Who would i recommend it for?
1) beginners: this is a cheap way for you to get kick started into IR. Have a feel for it to see if u like it or not before spending on a modified body.
2) long exposure shoots. U can get various effects such as cloud streaks as the in built blocking serves the purpose of an ND filter.
Do note that not all ND filters can help lengthen IR exposure time (tianya doesnt for one.)
Sample of IR long exposure, citiwide 720nm, 450d
2) Modded camera with IR filter
These are cameras that u have removed the IR blocking filter and replaced with an IR filter.
The advantages are that these allow short exposure times (handholdable) and u can see what u shoot.
This makes it great if ur shooting portraits.
However, the downsides are that u cannot shoot in normal color. (u permanently modded the dslr).
Also, it is hard to get long exposures, unless a ND filter that blocks IR is used.
Lastly, u cannot change the IR filter, unless u remod it.
Who would i recommend it for?
1) Advanced shooters: this is a permanent way for you to shoot IR. You can see what u are shooting, u can shoot moving objects, u can handhold it.
Sample of an ELP modded d50 (thanks lxchua for d50)
3) Full Spec(trum) camera
These are cameras that u have removed the IR blocking filter and replaced with clear glass.
The advantages are that these allow short exposure times (handholdable), allows u to change the various ir filters.
By using a IR blocking filter (screw on type), u can still shoot normal photography.
However, the downsides are that u cannot see what u are shooting. (viewfinder is disabled, cause u cant see!).
Also, it is hard to get long exposures, unless a ND filter that blocks IR is used. (which makes it even harder to see through view finder)
Lastly, a IR blocking filter must be used to shoot normal photography. its a lot of extra cost.
The problem of being unable to see, might be mitigated if u can use live view. I am currently unable to confirm this, cause i never used a full spec IR myself. but my 450d + Ir blocking can still be seen on liveview, hence i believe it is possible to use liveview on a fullspec(update. liveview works!)
Sample of Ir poisoning(http://acecostanalyzer.com/index.php?key=1000D)
Sample of Full spec mod with 695nm IR (https://infraredatelier.wordpress.com/2010/10/30/why-i-use-micro-43-cameras-rather-than-canon-dslrs/)
Who would i recommend it for?
1) Shooters who wanna use full spec: this is the only way for you to shoot full spec anyways.
You can see what u are shooting(Live View), u can shoot moving objects, u can handhold it.
You can also change ur IR filters as and when u want.
In conclusion, there are 3 very different ways (there might be more in the future) for one to shoot IR. I'll say that the option 1 is the cheapest, 2 being second cheapest and the most ex would be the full spectrum. In terms of versatility however, the full spec is still most powerful (especially when equipped with liveview).
I hope this very layman guide would serve to help beginners like me who wish to take up IR in the future.
(if i made any mistakes correct me too)
Who to contact for modifications:
Fatigue (David) can modify for you if u need. Contact him
Also, as a follow up. samples of a few cutoff wavelengths can be found here
http://www.lifepixel.com/infrared-filters-choices
this might be helpful for people who wanna try IR but have no idea what mod/filter to use.
I faced the same problem when deciding on starting IR photography.
Most of our cameras are never meant to shoot/ see IR.
but we are, IR photographers. we want IR:bsmilie:
As far as i know, there are 3 types of methods for you to shoot IR.
1) Screw on Filter, no modifications
2) Modded camera with IR filter (replacement of IR cutoff with IR only filter)
3) Full Spec camera (replacement of IR cutoff with glass)
3 different types of filters, 3 very different types of effects.
Lets take a look at the first type.
1) Screw on Filter, no modifications
These are filters (hoya r72, citiwide 720nm) that u simply screw on ur lens and shoot with.
The advantages are that these are significantly cheaper (citiwide is cheap. around 60 max for a 77mm) and u do not need to modify the camera.
Also, u have the choice to change the IR filters, from a r72, to an ELP and even to a 1000nm one.
However, the downsides are that u cannot view through viewfinder to see what ur shooting. (filter only allows IR. u cannot see visible light).
Also, due to the presence of the IR blocking in camera, it only allows long exposures, which means u cant shoot anything moving, unless blur intended.
exposure time can range anywhere between 1 seconds to 30 seconds, or even more.
Who would i recommend it for?
1) beginners: this is a cheap way for you to get kick started into IR. Have a feel for it to see if u like it or not before spending on a modified body.
2) long exposure shoots. U can get various effects such as cloud streaks as the in built blocking serves the purpose of an ND filter.
Do note that not all ND filters can help lengthen IR exposure time (tianya doesnt for one.)
Sample of IR long exposure, citiwide 720nm, 450d
2) Modded camera with IR filter
These are cameras that u have removed the IR blocking filter and replaced with an IR filter.
The advantages are that these allow short exposure times (handholdable) and u can see what u shoot.
This makes it great if ur shooting portraits.
However, the downsides are that u cannot shoot in normal color. (u permanently modded the dslr).
Also, it is hard to get long exposures, unless a ND filter that blocks IR is used.
Lastly, u cannot change the IR filter, unless u remod it.
Who would i recommend it for?
1) Advanced shooters: this is a permanent way for you to shoot IR. You can see what u are shooting, u can shoot moving objects, u can handhold it.
Sample of an ELP modded d50 (thanks lxchua for d50)
3) Full Spec(trum) camera
These are cameras that u have removed the IR blocking filter and replaced with clear glass.
The advantages are that these allow short exposure times (handholdable), allows u to change the various ir filters.
By using a IR blocking filter (screw on type), u can still shoot normal photography.
However, the downsides are that u cannot see what u are shooting. (viewfinder is disabled, cause u cant see!).
Also, it is hard to get long exposures, unless a ND filter that blocks IR is used. (which makes it even harder to see through view finder)
Lastly, a IR blocking filter must be used to shoot normal photography. its a lot of extra cost.
The problem of being unable to see, might be mitigated if u can use live view. I am currently unable to confirm this, cause i never used a full spec IR myself. but my 450d + Ir blocking can still be seen on liveview, hence i believe it is possible to use liveview on a fullspec(update. liveview works!)
Sample of Ir poisoning(http://acecostanalyzer.com/index.php?key=1000D)
Sample of Full spec mod with 695nm IR (https://infraredatelier.wordpress.com/2010/10/30/why-i-use-micro-43-cameras-rather-than-canon-dslrs/)
Who would i recommend it for?
1) Shooters who wanna use full spec: this is the only way for you to shoot full spec anyways.
You can see what u are shooting(Live View), u can shoot moving objects, u can handhold it.
You can also change ur IR filters as and when u want.
In conclusion, there are 3 very different ways (there might be more in the future) for one to shoot IR. I'll say that the option 1 is the cheapest, 2 being second cheapest and the most ex would be the full spectrum. In terms of versatility however, the full spec is still most powerful (especially when equipped with liveview).
I hope this very layman guide would serve to help beginners like me who wish to take up IR in the future.
(if i made any mistakes correct me too)
Who to contact for modifications:
Fatigue (David) can modify for you if u need. Contact him
Also, as a follow up. samples of a few cutoff wavelengths can be found here
http://www.lifepixel.com/infrared-filters-choices
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