shooting IR only in RAW?


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joebgoh

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Aug 10, 2006
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Quick asking, been abit confused about the format of shooting using IR filter, the post processing only can apply to RAW or jpeg files still can do?

I got my filter today, cloudy and will like to know this before i go out shooting... thanks.
 

Quick asking, been abit confused about the format of shooting using IR filter, the post processing only can apply to RAW or jpeg files still can do?

I got my filter today, cloudy and will like to know this before i go out shooting... thanks.

the post processing detailed in the sticky is for photographs where the white balance point has been set correctly

for my own experience, even if you shoot in raw you have to get a "close enough" wb point.. using auto doesn't cut it.. you can't correct it later on and i do not know why, but this could be related to my camera rather than across the board.
 

the post processing detailed in the sticky is for photographs where the white balance point has been set correctly

for my own experience, even if you shoot in raw you have to get a "close enough" wb point.. using auto doesn't cut it.. you can't correct it later on and i do not know why, but this could be related to my camera rather than across the board.

Thanks nite86mare, the filter is 760nm(from china, thru ebay). Pentax K100D super kit lens, :)

I set the wb, with filter on, foliage.
increase exposure,
and a few tries it said "OK". well, then set ISO400, shoot some views,...1/4 result wide open seems good... but i just have the perception that what i should get is something "reddish" but it just not that, it look more like black and white..could it be the 760nm blocking almost all the near red lights?

I am not really into photoshop, can i do channel mixing with jpegs?
 

you should get something sepia-like.. but this statement is based on hoya r72, which does 720nm.. i am not so sure about 760nm.. but it sounds like it will block out more "color" than r72.. so your colors may not be so pronounced.

fengwei seems to be using the same setup, are you getting what he is getting here?

maybe if you post some samples up here for everybody to see, and help you with the pp workflow? :)

i did a quick search on the net and most of the stuff i have seen seems to be relatively "monotone" with a 760nm filter.. :dunno:
 

Yup, the colour is rather less sepia like. i am getting more or less B&W, the weather is very cloudy, not good for IR. mabye I should wait for a sunny days before i can get better results and better idea how this filter is like.

FengWei pics is much more crispy than mine. mine adjust abit level then look alike his first few pics, without any channel mixing yet. after channel swapping it appears weird, really don't know why...

nite86mare, do you set any contrast++ or sharpness++? and how to judge good exposure tru histogram?
I kinda feel that i should keep the exposure abit under to keep the details of the higher end.. rite?
 

nite86mare, do you set any contrast++ or sharpness++? and how to judge good exposure tru histogram?
I kinda feel that i should keep the exposure abit under to keep the details of the higher end.. rite?

depends on the lighting condition. if let's say you are taking a building in the light, then you won't need to bother

histogram exposure should be spread out throughout the entire graph..

not bunched up to one side
 

have tried shooting a few but don't know is it right??
tried pp it by channels swapping but to no avail, failed. need some guides here.

post the resized color and Ir(?) pics straight from the camera jpeg.

IMGP6441_color.jpg



the color version.

IMGP6442_ir.jpg



this is what i get after postprocessing..

IMGP6442_irpost.jpg
 

the cast here is very faint, looks like you won't be getting much typical hoya r72 color from this filter..

i guess you will just have to do bnw ir.. :dunno:
 

thanks for your reply. really got alot more to learn to shot IR.

more to ask..
shooting IR, can you suggest which ISO to use combine with exposure time, aperture// I am using f11 but i think the long exposure time introduce quite alot of noise when i view it 100%...do you experienced that before? I kinda think mabye i should keep my exposure time within 2~3seconds to avoid that?

I hope i can try doing it when it is really HOT!

the sharpness i can get for building is also quite not satisfying, why? is it becos of the manual focusing/
can i auto-focus before i put on the filter and then change it to manual? or the filter causing it?
 

thanks for your reply. really got alot more to learn to shot IR.

more to ask..
shooting IR, can you suggest which ISO to use combine with exposure time, aperture// I am using f11 but i think the long exposure time introduce quite alot of noise when i view it 100%...do you experienced that before? I kinda think mabye i should keep my exposure time within 2~3seconds to avoid that?

I hope i can try doing it when it is really HOT!

the sharpness i can get for building is also quite not satisfying, why? is it becos of the manual focusing/
can i auto-focus before i put on the filter and then change it to manual? or the filter causing it?

Lots of dependencies, I try to keep shutter to around 2s (or faster), also depends on the subject and wind. If wind is blowing strongly then leaves, clouds will be blurr for slower shutter speeds. Exposure has to be spot on, check histogram to confirm after each shot.
Different cams have different hot-mirrors and can affect settings. Best is to try and try and try. Initially take several shots with different settings and you'll soon learn which to use for the circumstance.
 

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