SGTrekker 12D Nepal Upper Mustang Tiji Festival Photo Tour (1-12 May 2013)


limwhow

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Singapore Trekker 12 Days Upper Mustang, Nepal - Tiji Festival
1-12 May 2013



 

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A Unique Trekking and Photography Experience

Six of us undertook this adventure with Adrian of Singapore Trekker.
Little did most of us know what was to come when we signed on for the trip.
Neither did we know how close this adventurous journey would bring us
close to the people and lives of the Lowa (the people of the Kingdom of Lo).

The mountains,
the harsh environment,
the ancient religious culture
of this very old and stoic people
have all endeared us to this remote part
of northern Nepal.

Let us share with our ClubSNAP community
our collective experiences.

*SereneXMM and I are the record shooters in this group.
And we will supply the record photos.
The information in my posts are from what I have gathered and learned
from various sources during the trek. If I inevitably make any mistake,
please feel free to correct me. And my gratitude to all in advance.
 

Where did we go...? The Itinerary:

Here is a brief run through of the trip.

1 May - Fly into Kathmandu and mini-bus to Boudnath Temple.
2 May - Fly from Kathmandu to Pokhara, and enjoy an excursion to the International Mountain Museum. Evening shoot at World Peace Pagoda.

3 May - Fly (again) from Pokhara to Jomsom. Bumpy jeep ride to Kagbeni to validate Upper Mustang permits and another bumpity 2 hour transfer to Chuksang. From Chuksang, we will do a 2 hour trek to the village of Chele.
4 May - Get ready for a long Trek from Chele to Syangboche, enroute lunch at village of Samar. Overnight at Syangboche.
5 May - Take a 4 hour jeep ride to Lo Manthang. Enroute, we pass by the village of Geling, Ghami (with the longest Mani wall in Mustang region), Charang (lunch), Nyla Pass before arriving at Lo Manthang.
6 May - Day one of Tenchi (Tiji) festival. Morning shoot of the little monks at the Chode Gompa before visiting Jampa Gompa.

7 May - Day two of Tenchi festival. Excursion to Choksar (Tsosher) village, photographing the Lo Garphuk Monastery and the Nyphu Caves.
8 May - Return to Syanboche, passing Behna. Trek on to Samar village

9 May - Trek on to Chuksang, transfer via vehicle to Jomsom. Night shoot of Nilgiri at Jomsom
10 May - Overnight in Jomsom (due to flight cancellation)
11 May - Depart for Pokhara, transfer to Kathmandu.
12 May - Return to Singapore

Well, sounds straight forward and simple enough... until we did the trip.
 

History of Lo Manthang, Upper Mustang

The Kingdom of Lo was in earlier days known as the Kingdom of Mustang.
This Kingdom of Mustang was once part of Ngari, which in turn was part of Tibet.
During the early centuries, this part of Tibet consisted of loosely affiliated but constantly warring feudal tribes.
It was in the 8th century when the famous King Songtsengampo of Tibet finally united the Tibetan plateau and incorporated Ngari into the Tibetan empire.
Lo (previously known as Mustang) was of a very significant location as it was the conduit of trading between Tibet and the more southern lands of Nepal and India, with people from both sides traversing high passes in the Himalayan ranges.

In the 13th century, the Malla Dynasty began its rule in the valley of Kathmandu.
As the Malla empire grew, through war and domination, Lo was taken into what would be now Nepal.
Interestingly, although Lo was officially part of the Malla Dynasty, it still had a king, King Ame Pal, who founded the present Kingdom in 1380, and from then the kingdom became known as the Kingdom of Lo.

And the royal family has remained essentially status quo since then.
The current King is King Jigme Dorje Palbar Bista, who was born in 1933. He still resides in the Royal Palace of the Walled-City of Lo Manthang and is well respected by the Lowa (people of Lo).

Thus it can be seen that the people of Lo has an inextricable link historically to the Tibetan.
In fact, they share very similar languages, culture and religion with the Tibetan, though over years some variations have taken place.
Some have even gone as far as to say that the people of Lo retain Tibetan culture and language in its purest and rawest form, after having seen so much changes taking place in Tibet itself.

Most recently, in the 1960's, Mustang was the centre of secret guerilla training of the Tibetan Khampas by the CIA.
This was during the early years of Tibetan occupation by the Central Chinese Communisty Government, and Tibetan fighters were plotting their rebel and retake of their territories.

Geography

Upper Mustang is geographically located to the north of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges, in the north-western parts of Nepal.
Lo Manthang and the small village of Chhoser (Tsosher) are only about a few tens of kilometres from the border with Tibet (China).
The only problem is, the most parts of this unfenced border is drawn high up in the Himalayan ranges.
Thus crossing from one side to the other on this border is difficulty to say the least, though still possible through certain passes.

To put it simply, Lo Manthang, far out in the most northern part of Nepal, is one very remote city.
The terrain is arid, sandy with little vegetation apart from the typical shrubs of the tundra.
The landscape is composed of canyons and barren rocks with dried up glacier beds.

How to get to Lo Manthang?

Lo Mantang is so remote that every year it only receives about 3000 foreign visitors, compared with 80,000-90,000 visitors to the Everest side of the country.
We had to fly from Kathmandu to Pokhara (which is just south of the Annarpurna range), and take another flight from Pokhara to Jomsom, and from there a jeep ride to the tiny village of Chhuksang.
From there we would trek for two days to the small town of Syangboche.
And another few hours of jeep ride would bring us to Lo Manthang.
 

Let the story begin !
 

Yep...holding my breath and waiting ....
Beside trolling in FB to have a glimpse of what's coming here
 

Hey Wee How,

Sorry, was knocked out by like 6-7 Panadols last night. I think historically, this is the first time our official thread is started by one of the participants instead of the organiser, guess we're getting really slacked already haha.... Anyway thanks for starting the thread, i'll just post some of the photos here. Most of the rest are in our Facebook since we seldom use CS already.... here we go!

First some of the pre-trek excursions

World Peace Pagoda, Pokhara

World Peace Pagoda Pokhara by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

Boudnath Temple, Kathmandu

Boudnath Temple Kathmandu by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

Start of the trailhead:

Wheat fields outside the village of Kagbeni

Wheat Fields outside Kagbeni by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

Mount Nilgiri

Enroute to Chuksang by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

Trekking towards Chele

Enroute to Chele by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr
 

Let the story begin !

Daoyin.. hahaha.. story? My story is always lor sor one lah..
Wait till you guys see the pictures taken by the rest of the group.
That is what is to be anticipated.

Yep...holding my breath and waiting ....
Beside trolling in FB to have a glimpse of what's coming here

Stevepow yah... LOL.. please, breathe, breathe!

Hey Wee How,

Sorry, was knocked out by like 6-7 Panadols last night. I think historically, this is the first time our official thread is started by one of the participants instead of the organiser, guess we're getting really slacked already haha.... Anyway thanks for starting the thread, i'll just post some of the photos here. Most of the rest are in our Facebook since we seldom use CS already.... here we go!

Haha.. Adrian.. glad you woke up.
Never mind. It's ok to let me start the thread as I am still active in ClubSNAP.
Anyway.. it was a great trek. And am I happy to see you up here.
 

Some months back...

Vngks saw the SgTrekker trip to Lo Manthang.
"Come on guys, let's go!" said he.
"Ok, I'm on," said wkcheah.


So on this day...


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Vngks was all ready to test the altitudes once more.. after having rested his trekking legs for the past two years.

And so here we were, one nice and warm morning in early May, while the rest of Singapore was celebrating Labour Day, we landed in Kathmandu.
Dejavu, was the exact feeling for every single member in the team.. all six of us. Seven, including Adrian.
Every one was familiar to this wonderful country.

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SereneXMM happy to be back in Tribhuvan International airport in Kathmandu.
 

Last edited:
Day 1: Kathmandu.
... and Boudanath Stupa.


"Mustang? Isn't that some kind of horses?"
I asked.
"No that's MAS-Tang. Here, Upper Mustang (Moos-tang), is a province in northern Nepal"
Oh, I see.

Those fellows were hungry after the flight. And Adrian took us to a small cafe somewhere in Thamel...

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Such wonderful streets of Thamel in Kathmandu.
The boys were lost in their reminiscence of Holi Festival 2 years ago, at exactly the same spot where they were walking right now.
On that fateful day, wkcheah was running for his life from water bombs and coloured-powder baths.
On this day, he was looking out for a new pair of trekking shoes for mine decided to call it a day once it touched down in Kathmandu.

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... 2 years 3 months ago, instead of looking for trekking shoes to buy, he was doing this.. [clickable photo below]

 

Last edited:
... and Yes! Boudanath Stupa!
This is the little Tibet in Kathmandu.
Often even as the small propeller plane on domestic route lands, the magnificent stupa could be seen emerging from the surrounding buildings.
The boys and girls had a whole lot of fun that afternoon and evening at Boudanath Stupa.

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... and Adrian did what he had to do. Shoot.
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A Video of our round at Boudanath Stupa...

Boudanath Stupa is the largest Buddhist Stupa in the world.
It is also very much a centre of activity for many followers of Tibetan Buddhism in Kathmandu.
From our previous trip to Kathmandu, we were told by the local guide of the legend behind Boudanath..

There was a poor lady who wanted to build a Buddhist Stupa.
But she didn't have the money to buy the land for it.
She went to many a rich people but could get no one to sponsor her.
Finally she approached one local wealthy man.
When asked how much land she needed,
she said "enough for the skin of a goat to cover."
And this wealthy man agreed.
The lady took a skin of a goat and started to lay it on the ground at night..
and by dawn, she managed to stretch the skin until
it covered a huge plot of land - where Boudanath stands today.
As reluctant as he was, the wealthy man kept his word.
And Boudanath was built.

[Anyway, just enjoy the legend. Now enjoy the video]

[video=youtube_share;gBcYQYIQ27M]http://youtu.be/gBcYQYIQ27M[/video]
 

Showcasing the terrain we had to deal with for our trek from Chuksang to Syangboche...

First day towards Chele

The path to Chele by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

The imposing terrain towards Syangboche

The trek to Syangboche by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

Horse herders heading toward Syangboche

Horse herders heading towards Syangboche by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

Lone villages in the middle of no-where

Village of Lhomi Mustang 2 by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr


Panorama of Geling village

Village of Geling by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr