SGTrekker 10D9N Everest Panorama Trek (17-26 March 2011)


T R A V E L O G U E

Day 6: From Toktok to Bengkar...

The drop from Toktok village to the next village at Bengkar was another 140m descend. But though it appeared to be a general descend, the mountains never made life easy for us, for they made sure we would always do a steep ascend before we get a chance to bang our knees really stupidly painful while doing the descend.

I remembered this particular uphill climb very well. Because when I arrived at the foot of this steep ascend, I told myself:
"Wah lau eh... this is going to be another long, hard climb. Look at JohnnyLCP and Goose Goi who are right ahead of us - they are having a great time jumping from stone to stone and rock to rock..."

Yah. As much as JohnnyLCP and Goose Goi were enjoying themselves flying all over the rocks, SereneXMM, myself and Judith, being the last few in the team, were enjoying ourselves torturing our thigh muscles. Looking closely at SereneXMM in the photo, one could make out how difficult it was for her trying to look for a rock as a stepping platform before hauling herself further up to another rocky platform.
Of course all these hardships don't apply to the fit members of the team, like acpical, who just happened to be accompanying us at the tail end of the team, so enjoy the nice leisurely stroll to him.

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During one of the rest station, I remembered talking to vngks who reassuringly said:
"It is really good to have two trekking poles because with these two both your arms can help push you strongly upwards and while you walk down, help cushion your impact. It makes trekking so much more easier."
Yah. Now I know. To anyone who is thinking of doing some trekking, either you buy an expensive trekking pole and transport that through all the trouble to Nepal, or buy a cheap S$5.40 (300 rupee) trekking pole in Kathmandu and bring it up. They are worth every rupee you spend!

As we neared the village of Bangkar, I remember seeing Dinosour intently shooting at a far-away location. I peered towards that direction and saw this interesting scene - a rock that resembled a sitting Buddha high up in the mountains. Well, I am very sure many of us remembered this scene, or have the shot in their memory cards. Quite a view, I must say...

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At this point, we were close enough to see Bengkar, another small little village just across the valley, across Dudh Koshi the mainstream river way below, and over the gorge. It was one thing about being able to see a destination from afar, it was a totally different thing about walking to that destination over the mountain tracks. From what the guides told us, if you could see your destination village, it would mean that you could be at least a good one hour walk away from that point. Sigh...
Anyway, we were walking along a narrow track with the cliff to our left side... quite a steep drop there, when a group of porters came walking in good pace in the opposite direction. I think quite a few of us quickly made way for them by moving to the right side which was on the mountain side. We dare not risk a wrong step downwards... hahaha...

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This is a Google Eye picture of that exact spot we were shooting the porters high up in the track. As we could see, across the Dudh Koshi River one could already began to see the small town of Bengkar not far in horizontal distance.

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... and here, I would like to draw everyone's attention to that tiny little spot of human being right on the right upper quadrant of the photo. Who was that? It was Melvin. By the time I sighted him, he was already way off the steep downward slope of the cliff and seemingly deeply engrossed in most likely viewing Bengkar from that angle and giving him the shot of a lifetime! What a brave man he was!!!

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SereneXMM #23
Some more mountains. This place siao one. Full of mountains.:bsmilie:
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SereneXMM #24
Another rocky downhill track. It is really hard to find the footings for some of the track because the rocks are not smooth and they are all over the place. Here Ivypin is walking down towards a bridge in the distance which will take us to the small village of Benkar.
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T R A V E L O G U E

Day 6: Finally arriving at Bengkar...



Finally we came to Bengkar. I didn't know what was troubling me more, the lack of oxygen (highly unlikely at this altitude) or the lack of fitness (more probable due to my highly unconditioned physical state). But when I came to Bengkar, the quaint little Bengkar Guest house that greeted us in the shades of some tall Salla trees was a truly welcoming sight.

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I could remember this scene well for three things:
  • I was really quite quite shacked by the time we reached Bengkar, to be really ashamed to say,
  • There was a few Dzopkyos that came to the water point just beside this Guest House and made themselves at home, drinking water from the tap. That was quite an unforgettable sight for me...
  • But most unforgettable, was the sight of Goose Goi suddenly suffering from Acute Mountain Sickness and hallucinating himself to be the greatest Matador this side of the Himalayan and did a Bull fight with one of the Dzopkyos.. I was too tired to go and help him. So I just shot him.

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Here at Bengkar, the openess of the highland gave us much excuse to slow down and shoot...

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... and shoot... Here even after walking that Zig-Zag trail down from a higher ground, Campoes was already hard at work shooting.
Campoes, what were you shooting at that was so interesting, that the porters were all smiling away?

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SereneXMM #25
Stupa in Benkar.
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SereneXMM #26
We hiked up further on the way to Monjo...
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Day 6: Some more at Bengkar...

Here, as we were walking by some interesting structure, I asked my porter Sange again and again what it was.
He tried very very hard to answer my question. It was only after much gesturing and circumventing the actual word that I finally understood:

Rubbish Dump.
But a rubbish dump built more for burning the trash properly. Recently work had been underway with the local community in educating them the right way to dispose of and to incinerate rubbish, andto keep the Sagarmatha National Park as free from litter as possible. Some level of success had been achieved.

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Day 6: Bengkar to Monjo...

Another walk up 200m from Bengkar to the other tiny village of Monjo was in order. At this point in time, Monjo had no significance to most of us for it was merely a village in passing. It was during the return trip that we finally enjoyed Monjo as a overnight stay.

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Here, Goose was frantically searching for Johnny his lovely lovely soul-mate, as he crossed the long long suspension bridge before we hit Monjo.

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I noticed all children has something in common. How come their cheeks has this reddish rough prickling like stubby, not the type of those Taiwanese kid with smooth rosy cheek.

I think they all have a habit of using some tree bark extract grounded to a powder like that, called Akanaht, to apply on their cheek to help with the altitude sickness! ;)
Haha... but jokes aside, divinemoment, these are common eczema and folliculitis that are typical of exposure to environmental factors up here. Look at that young boy's photo posted by Dinosour - his fingers are all crusty and flaking.
But one thing in common though, they were mostly very happy... these children.
 

So far you have given us a very good overview of the treks, the lodge etc. Keep it up my good friend.

I like particular this pic. Wonder has the porters necks grown shorter? Looks like they are carrying their body weight.
 

SereneXMM #27
We walked to Monjo village crossing several more suspension bridges. We generally followed the river high up on the hill side.
Although we only gained about 200 meters in altitude today I found the going quite demanding,
especially the last 500 meters or so to the lodge. This section was quite steep. I am pleased that my legs are coping very well.
My major concern is my breathing; every breath I seem to be gasping for air. I keep reminding myself to go slowly.
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I think they all have a habit of using some tree bark extract grounded to a powder like that, called Akanaht, to apply on their cheek to help with the altitude sickness! ;)
Haha... but jokes aside, divinemoment, these are common eczema and folliculitis that are typical of exposure to environmental factors up here. Look at that young boy's photo posted by Dinosour - his fingers are all crusty and flaking.
But one thing in common though, they were mostly very happy... these children.

Thank you Doc. Another .........tis thing
 

So far you have given us a very good overview of the treks, the lodge etc. Keep it up my good friend.

I like particular this pic. Wonder has the porters necks grown shorter? Looks like they are carrying their body weight.
Thank you, divinemoment!
They easily carry about 80-90kg of load at least. Some even more.
The only travellers who (are supposed to) treat them humanely are those from SgTrekker, for there was an oft-repeated rule of not loading them more than 20kg per porter, a rule which I must shamefully admit that I might have flouted throughout the trek... :sweat:~!
 

Thank you, divinemoment!
They easily carry about 80-90kg of load at least. Some even more.
The only travellers who (are supposed to) treat them humanely are those from SgTrekker, for there was an oft-repeated rule of not loading them more than 20kg per porter, a rule which I must shamefully admit that I might have flouted throughout the trek... :sweat:~!

20kg is chicken feed to them :)
 

20kg is chicken feed to them :)

That's why they can hang around and let you take your own sweet time. Inside their heart, they must be whispering kam sia, kam sia, kam sia, ha ha ha. But then, there is no reason to bring more than 20 or 25 kg.
 

limwhow: Keep up the recording photos. Very nice series and can FEEL your pain. Must say your wife seems to have taken it better.
 

20kg is chicken feed to them :)
HAha.. But 20kg is NOT chicken feed to me. I tried doing a 20kg in the backpack up and down 25 storeys 4 rounds. Almost got my the wind in my lungs knocked out.

That's why they can hang around and let you take your own sweet time. Inside their heart, they must be whispering kam sia, kam sia, kam sia, ha ha ha. But then, there is no reason to bring more than 20 or 25 kg.
Who said no reason to bring 20-25kg? You know we all one lah.... chin chai chin chai already hit that figure. Haha...

limwhow: Keep up the recording photos. Very nice series and can FEEL your pain. Must say your wife seems to have taken it better.

Thank you so much, Daoyin. Hehe.. she Kao Beh Kao Bu only lah...she!
I only post record shots and tell our story. All the good landscape shots will need to come from all my mates.
 

HAha.. But 20kg is NOT chicken feed to me. I tried doing a 20kg in the backpack up and down 25 storeys 4 rounds. Almost got my the wind in my lungs knocked out.

I only post record shots and tell our story. All the good landscape shots will need to come from all my mates.
limwhow, did 20Kg backpack up/down 4 times, 25 storeys... and still considered as least conditioned one.. like that I can forget about going la..

What I find from 1-2 treks that I did on smallish hills (some with cable-car ones) is that I tends to "forget" about photography when I physically and mentally tired.. guess such trekking trips are no go for me.. From this thread.. I can still see a lot of shots taken along the way.. well done guys/gals...

Maybe I can consider if the Dr give out boosters (pills/injections) that can keep me awake/active for a substained period of time.. hehehhee..
 

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T R A V E L O G U E

Day 6: Coming to Monjo...

Honestly, it had been only two and a half hours of trekking through uphill and downhill tracks. But on this day, it REALLY seemed to us that the track was more punishing than the day before's. But certainly I was the least qualified person to make that comment, again due to my poor physical conditioning.
Remembering that the climb from Bengkar to Monjo required a 200m ascend in a short span of time, now in retrospect, I could finally understood why by the time we hit the top of the knoll at where the tiny village of Monjo was, as the last half of the team we were all pretty tired, even too tired to KB KB already.

Here, we were at the top of a ridge overlooking to the other ridge where Monjo was. But before we came to Monjo, we had to down a long way down...

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... and here, we were finally going down again. But the track was not so easy to walk, simply because many of us were having thigh pain and cramp. Only our 7-8 fit guys ahead had absolutely no forms of muscle fatigue what so ever. Haha...

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The Waterfall at the entrance to Monjo

Here it was. That famous waterfall.
Who could forget this place? A small rigid bridge linked the banks together, under which the tributary to the Dudh Koshi flowed. By the time the slower second half of the team (that's us, incidentally) arrived here, the faster first half had been there, enjoyed the scene, shot some waterfalls and were ready to move out already.
But still, I arrived in time to see Adrian taking a 美人浴 Beauty Bath on a rocky out-pouching. Had it not been for Nepali-Sherpa customs to frown upon nudity, I was sure he would have stripped to his underwear... Hehehe...

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[Sorry for poor lighting. The Dynamic Range here was tooooo high liao... hahaha..]

Acpical said to me:
"How? Want to take out the tripod and shoot the waterfall?"
"Of course must take out lah,"​
I replied. "We cannot carry that $200 per leg tripod all the way here and made our porter suffer the weight and not use it mah, right? You'll never know, maybe after this no more chance to use the tripod liao leh... right? Come let's shoot lah!"
So off we went gingerly descending to just beside the bridge to see what angle we could get out of the waterfall.
From where we were, I could already see Sherwin at the far end of the bridge on his tripod and on long exposure already. Campoes and Cnleong also followed to the near side of the bank.

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That $200 per tripod leg joke - haha.. that was Acpical's personal joke. He rightfully calculated his tripod to be worth S$200 per leg]

We spent about 15 minutes setting up the tripod, the remote and the filters and finally, shooting the waterfall. During this time, the Faster, Fitter First Half Team One had already gone ahead and climbed towards the highest point of Monjo.
Through the Walkie Talkie, I could hear Adrian speaking to Melvin:
"Hello Melvin, report location please." asked Adrian through the interference of radio signals.​
"Ah.. we have just left the waterfall. The last man has just left the waterfall.​
replied Melvin.
"Ok, you are about half an hour behind us. We will pass all our TIMS trekking permits to the Guard House at Monjo and let them inspect the cards, then the First Team will move ahead and cross over the suspension bridge to Jorsalle where we will have lunch first while waiting for you all."​
Yah. So much for encouragement, Adrian.
 

Struggling up to the top of Monjo...

Mevlin called out to Team 2:
"Hey guys, I think we'd better pick up the pace. We don't want to lag too far behind Team 1. Otherwise they get to have lunch while we don't."​
Yah yah yah... I got Bakkwa, the HamSum boys have Mars bar, Acpical has Snicker bars, and Jack and wife has lots of Vodka. No lunch no problem. We still have our glucose booster to kick some butts... hahaha...

So off we went, another zig zag uphill climb to Monjo.
Now this one is no joke. Despite resting for 15-20 minutes down at the waterfall valley, we found ourselves winded (again!) half way through simply because there was no flattening of the road. It was uphill all the way. We really had to literally take 30-40 steps to ascend that 15 metres, then rest for a few minutes to breathe deeply, before plucking our courage and start walking again.
What kind of hardship travel is this?! I was sure that was in every one of the Team 2 members' mind.

Even the mules and Dzopkyos walked faster than us. Here, a concerned spouse sounded out the partner...

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... and this record photographer here had to be brave and tried to be the first few in Team 2 to arrive at the top of the ridge so as to be able to shoot photos of his team mates 'summit-ing' this highest point of Monjo mah...
And Campoes did it with flying colours - green, blue, purple, black... HAHAHA...

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And SereneXMM KB KB-ing, AGAIN!

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I remembered this part very well. It was nice and breezy up here. When I arrived, Cnleong, Acpical and some of the private porters they were all distributing their water and chocolate and energy bars all around. I did not catch sight of those Team 1 fellows for they have gone all the way down from here.
Here, for all your memories - a memorable bench and sight.

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Here at Monjo...

People would ask: "What is so special about Monjo?"
Well, Monjo is that little village where the Guard House to the Entrance of Sagarmatha National Park was. Sagarmatha National Park included the whole of the Everest Region and is the region where all trekkers would need register their trekking permits for.
Here, Judith was taking her relax-paced walk down to the Guard House.

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And inside this Guard House, was an old and dirty model of the whole Sagarmatha National Park. We could make out from the severely-scratched and blurry plastic covering over the model, where we were and where Mount Chomolangma (Everest) was.
 

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