Then better get those ancient K/A/M lenses or M42 Takumars. There is no AF to break in those :bsmilie:
K7 question
- Thread starter KTi
- Start date
Then better get those ancient K/A/M lenses or M42 Takumars. There is no AF to break in those :bsmilie:
To each his choice. I am just offering my opinion on SDM - I have no faith in it.Nothing last forever, I guess we shouldn't buy any camera or lens at all
... But i love the feeling and sound of HSM it feels so shiok to use and sound like wind blowing :bsmilie:
Hey guys got another burning questions with my k-7 regarding the built in flash... So i was playing with the flash when i noticed that when I set delayed release like 2 sec self timer the flash goes off the moment i press the shutter release then it starts beeping then *snap* take the picture with flash . Is this normal ?? to clarify it does not take a picture on the first flash it just fires the flash ! Im worried this uses up some the the charge and may not get the desired strength when the actual shot is taken...
This also happens when im using trailing curtain flash , it fires before the shutter is opened and fires again just as the shutter closes.isnt it only supposed to flash when when shutter is closing ?? I confirmed the first flash is fired before the shutter is open as after the flash fires i quickly change subject but the original subject cant be seen in final picture which would be as the flash would "freeze" the original subject ...
Anyone using a K-7 can test try this and whether it happens to your camera too ? :dunno:
This is normal AFAIK, it's the same with the K100D and K20D. When you set the cam to 2-sec delay, the mirror flips up right after you depress the shutter button. All metering decisions must therefore be made before that. The flash that fires right before the mirror flips up is the PTTL pre-flash that enables the body to decide on the flash power and metering to use.
Incidentally, for the bodies that doesn't not have the built-in function to trigger external wireless flash (eg. K100D, not sure about other entry level bodies like K-m and K-x), using the 2-sec delay was one of the way around it, since the pre-flash is fired way before the actual exposure and does not get mistaken as the actual flash. Not an elegant solution, but it's ok for people just playing around with wireless flash....
From reading the thread i realise you've already purchased the K7. I hope it's working out for you. I'm also thinking of a K7 sometime this year.
As for the question... I think you'd need a shutter speed of at least 1/160 to freeze the motion on stage. 1/320 would be better. Assuming that you didn't push the exposure in post, that means the equivalent exposure can be obtained using:
Shutter 1/160 (instead of 1/20)
Aperture f/4.1 (as per above)
ISO6400 (to make up for faster shutter)
Now with a 2.8 lens which is approx 1 stop faster than f/4.1, you can get away with:
Shutter 1/160 (instead of 1/20)
Aperture f/2.8
ISO3200 (since using faster lens)
(More experienced photogs may wish to check/correct my sums.)
So your question really boils down to: Will I be happy with the K7's output at ISO3200? Shooting in RAW and applying some good quality NR, I think ISO 3200 is perfectly acceptable. Especially if you print.
Hope this helps...
Im using the built in flash not a wireless one . but it should be the same reason that you explained right ? But why doesnt it fire a preflash when you do not use the timer ?
It does do a pre-flash just that it's so close to the actual flash that you might only perceive it as one flash? The pre-flash has been blamed for causing very sensitive people to blink so all their photos have their eyes closed :bsmilie:
Are you talking about red eye reduction ? hence the preflash to tighten the pupils so the red eye effect will be lessened ? but i did not set the camera to red eye reduction ...
He is refering to the Pentax P-TTL flash system. The flash will fire a pre-flash for camera to do metering and to determine the flash output. It happens in split seconds that why you dont really see it.
Ok Thx i get it now :bsmilie: So when doing trailing curtain the 1st flash is also for metering ! never knew that ,I always thought that the camera can calculate flash output and metering without the preflash :bigeyes:
That's right, with a trailing curtain the gap between the pre-flash and actual flash is greater and you can probably notice it more. I haven't really tried the red-eye reduction setting since I mostly bounce my flash or have it off-camera, so I can't say for sure about that.
The w/o pre-flash would be the old TTL system that ended with the istD I think. Don't get me started on how inconsistent PTTL is.... :angry:
Yah, I was referring to just the built-in flash, the bit about the wireless flash was just extra info, sorry for the confusion. But I think you've figured it out already.
Yah, I was referring to just the built-in flash, the bit about the wireless flash was just extra info, sorry for the confusion. But I think you've figured it out already.
When you refer to wireless flash, you don't mean the propietary wireless PTTL flash, but just the optical slave that triggers a manual flash once it senses a flash go off right?
Erm.... it's been a long while since I played with them, can't remember for sure already. Now with K20D I don't do it anymore.... But I think you're right in saying that using the 2-sec timer work-around, you can't use PTTL so it's just triggering the external flash as a dumb slave flash. I was using the K100D with the AF360, I think the AF360 was probably on manual slave mode, so I could at least still change the flash power at 1-stop intervals. But this 2-sec timer trick should allow us to trigger all the cheapo optical slave units that don't know how to handle pre-flashes, with a caveat: the slave will fire both with the pre-flash and the actual flash, so the slave cannot be operating at max output or it won't recharge in time after the pre-flash.
I know TTL means "through the lens" but whats does the P stand for ? also heard canon has E-TTL ?:dunno: Also which flash would be better the pentax AF360FGZ or the metz 48 ?or maybe even a sigma one . looking for a relatively cheap but reliable flash with many settings
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