The black brick is actually 2 switching transistors attached to the thermal fuse with a thermal glue
Fix your SB600 (by David Hilos)
- Thread starter fatigue
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The black brick is actually 2 switching transistors attached to the thermal fuse with a thermal glue
1812 Size 0.1uF/500V X7R 5% Ceramic Cap, VJ1812Y104JXEAT
i plan on replacing both, also ordered just in case due to long ship wait time you know,
I dont understand what you mean, the pictures above is the replacement parts to fix the flash i picked up, TAMURA Thermal Fuse Cutoff 127℃ 250V 1A N4F, and 1812 Size 0.1uF/500V X7R 5% Ceramic Cap, VJ1812Y104JXEAT,, for the tamura how do i place them on the board? just solder the two ends to the contact points you pointed out or do i remove both thermal fuses and placed place in position? can you show or tell me what you did. My flash was working it took awhile to charge the cap then slowly it took longer and longer to no more charge and no more flash ready light coming on or charging sound. if you can shoot me an email that would be awesome, so to be a bug, quick6848@gmail.com, appreciate the help chris
The key for a successful fix is finding the rootcause.
The problem symptom will give you an idea which circuit to check.
Checking the suspected part with a multimeter will confirm if the part indeed has to be replaced
The problem symptom will give you an idea which circuit to check.
Checking the suspected part with a multimeter will confirm if the part indeed has to be replaced
david quick question. the green square box you attach the trigger wire of the flash bulb to. do you know what its called?
Trigger coil
David back again do you where i could get replacement inductors f100, and some good thermal fuses?
These are generic components. RS, Elements 14, DigiKey, and other online parts sellers should have it.
David, quick question bro, I just picked up a sb600 that works, the only issue in which i found is it randomly fires when left alone. Would you know what perhaps is the root problem? random fires roughly 20-30 seconds after turned on. I appreciate all your help as usual. CHris
Looks like the trigger is always ON. So when the capacitor has enough charge, it will fire.
Check the collector and emitter of the IGBT if it is shorted. If not check the voltage of the gate.
The IGBT is the biggest 3-legged semiconductor with part number CT40TMH....
What happens if the flash is dropped?
Either the tube is busted or this:
An inductor coil that serves as a power supply filter to the microprocessor could come off.
Symptom:
Dead set- could not power ON
David, whats up, chris again, what conductor coil would be equivalent to the oem spec? one of the cols i have is totally busted, need a reference for a replacement, thanks again chris, what do you recommend.
Which coil?
The inductor coil that's used to trigger is actually a small transformer. It has two winding coils so not easy to find a generic replacement
The inductor coil on the main board is a filter. It is used to prevent noise from the microprocessor from spreading in other parts of the circuit. It should ba around 10uH
Greetings!
I procured a beat up SB 600, with the same symptoms viz:
1. Powers on
2. No charging sound
3. Ready light doesn't come on
So following the easy to understand and thorough procedure as detailed by Fatigue, I replaced the thermal fuse.
I couldn't find the exact replacement. So I bought one rated at 250V, 2 A and 115deg C from Mouser.
Popped in the batteries and turned it on.
Now I have a rather unsettling symptom:
1. Powers on
2. I can hear buzzing
3. Ready light doesn't come on, even after 15 seconds.
Since I could hear the buzzing (or wheezing sound) I decided to take the batteries out, since I felt it would simply over-heat the two transistors and trip the thermal fuse.
Any help would be appreciated.
Helpful information from the questionable past of the unit
1. Looks like the unit has had a fall, there is a crack in the plastic case on the head.
2. The previous owner had drilled holes in the battery door and somehow used the unit with an external 6V supply.
3. Nothing smells burnt inside and I didn't notice anything broken on the PCBs. I haven't opened the head unit. Since it wasn't called for to replace the thernal fuse.
I procured a beat up SB 600, with the same symptoms viz:
1. Powers on
2. No charging sound
3. Ready light doesn't come on
So following the easy to understand and thorough procedure as detailed by Fatigue, I replaced the thermal fuse.
I couldn't find the exact replacement. So I bought one rated at 250V, 2 A and 115deg C from Mouser.
Popped in the batteries and turned it on.
Now I have a rather unsettling symptom:
1. Powers on
2. I can hear buzzing
3. Ready light doesn't come on, even after 15 seconds.
Since I could hear the buzzing (or wheezing sound) I decided to take the batteries out, since I felt it would simply over-heat the two transistors and trip the thermal fuse.
Any help would be appreciated.
Helpful information from the questionable past of the unit
1. Looks like the unit has had a fall, there is a crack in the plastic case on the head.
2. The previous owner had drilled holes in the battery door and somehow used the unit with an external 6V supply.
3. Nothing smells burnt inside and I didn't notice anything broken on the PCBs. I haven't opened the head unit. Since it wasn't called for to replace the thernal fuse.
Best to refer to service manual if you understand electronics and how a flash works or triggered.The principle is same for simple manual or microproceesor controlled. See online for info how flashtube is triggered.
NIKON SB-600-REPAIR-MANUAL Service Manual download ...wait for "processing" to change to "download".
https://elektrotanya.com/nikon_sb-600-repair-manual.pdf/download.html
NIKON SB-600-REPAIR-MANUAL Service Manual download ...wait for "processing" to change to "download".
https://elektrotanya.com/nikon_sb-600-repair-manual.pdf/download.html
One Eyed Jack,
Thank you for the service manual. I did have a copy of the same.
I'll look up the working principle of a flash tube. I'm no expert in electronics though. I can check components and take measurements, and once in a while catch offending components.
Thank you for the service manual. I did have a copy of the same.
I'll look up the working principle of a flash tube. I'm no expert in electronics though. I can check components and take measurements, and once in a while catch offending components.
Thank you one eye Jack.
I got locked out hence the late response.
The test button didn't elict any response from the Speedlight.
After letting the flash whine for 15 seconds, I discharged the capacitor with a led indicator circuit, which indicates that the cap was getting charged, but I didn't check the voltage.
I got locked out hence the late response.
The test button didn't elict any response from the Speedlight.
After letting the flash whine for 15 seconds, I discharged the capacitor with a led indicator circuit, which indicates that the cap was getting charged, but I didn't check the voltage.
15 seconds is too short...if it whines means oscillator circuit is working so let it charge for as long to light up LED.If more than 3 minutes then something is wrong. It's not advisable to use LED to discharge capacitor unless it has a resistor to limit current eg. max. current for 3mm Led is 20mA but limit it at 10mA so assuming cap can charge up to 200V..ohms law V/IR so R (resistance) =V/I.
200V/10mA = 20K ohm. For resistor power rating P= V x I = 200 x 0.01 = 2 watt so use a 5watt or 10W power resistor,those white ceramic ones. Seriously just use a 1K 5W or 10W will do then measure voltage if it's down to 1V should be safe.
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