Camera to upgrade after D3400


mjpaq

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Dec 13, 2017
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Hi, I have been using d3400 for almost half a year no. I would say its a pretty decent camera for beginners. However I would like to upgrade for the below reasons:
- Night photography( it gets vry grainy when I increase the ISO)
- Lenses (I can only use G lens which is much more expensive than D lens)

My budget would be around $1000 or less for the camera body brand new/ 2nd hand(preferably).

If u guys think the budget isnt enough, pls feel free to give leave ur prefered budget here for such dslr, as I am still new in buying dslr and gears.
 

Hi, I have been using d3400 for almost half a year no. I would say its a pretty decent camera for beginners. However I would like to upgrade for the below reasons:
- Night photography( it gets vry grainy when I increase the ISO)
- Lenses (I can only use G lens which is much more expensive than D lens)

My budget would be around $1000 or less for the camera body brand new/ 2nd hand(preferably).

If u guys think the budget isnt enough, pls feel free to give leave ur prefered budget here for such dslr, as I am still new in buying dslr and gears.

You can consider a used D7100 or D7200 with that budget :)
 

The D3400 was released in 2016 -- you're unlikely to find a APS-C camera with much better high-ISO, low-noise performance. You can try to go full-frame, but that would blow your budget (and the improvement may be less than you think!).

What type of "night photography"? Maybe all you need is a tripod. and longer exposures at lower ISOs.
Maybe a fast prime? The Nikkor 50/1.8 has always been fantastic bang-for-your-buck.
 

I'd recommend you practice technique and work with your existing equipment. Instead of increasing ISO, you can shoot where there is more light (e.g. streetlamp, shop window etc.) or get a tripod to play around with shutter speed and ISO. Like Francis mentions above^, I doubt many other APS-C cameras have better low light ability than the D3400. Maybe you could take a look at some fast primes like the Nikkor 35/1.8G (the DX one) or the classic Nikkor 50/1.8G? More light in the camera = lower ISO = less grainy images (ceteris paribus, in theory).

That being said, if you really want to upgrade, a used D600 / D610 should serve your purpose quite well. You may have to buy new lenses due to the larger full-frame sensor, but it will give you the option to use D lenses and also marginally better high ISO performance. Otherwise, save the money and get yourself some nice lenses for christmas ya?
 

Hi, I have been using d3400 for almost half a year no. I would say its a pretty decent camera for beginners. However I would like to upgrade for the below reasons:
- Night photography( it gets vry grainy when I increase the ISO)
- Lenses (I can only use G lens which is much more expensive than D lens)

My budget would be around $1000 or less for the camera body brand new/ 2nd hand(preferably).

If u guys think the budget isnt enough, pls feel free to give leave ur prefered budget here for such dslr, as I am still new in buying dslr and gears.

Problem is not with the camera. Upgrading to D7000 series will give more conveniences but not solve noise problems inherent to image sensors at entry or pro level types. So some insights to note is...
Noise is more apparent in uniform/plain coloured areas and shadows.Less in bright areas of photo.

What is digital noise?

Noise Comes in Different Flavors

Like film grain, digital noise has many causes: Dark noise comes from heat produced in the camera’s sensor during image capture. The dark current created ends up being collected along with the data from light passing through the lens. Random noise is created by fl uctuations within the camera’s circuitry or even from electromagnetic waves outside the camera. Signal noise is caused by fl uctuations in the distribution of how light strikes an image sensor. You’ll sometimes hear the term signal-to-noise ratio, which is a measure of signal strength relative to background
noise. Amplifi ed noise is caused by high ISO speeds, and is the digital equivalent of chemically “pushing” fi lm in order to achieve greater light sensitivity. Then there’s accumulative noise, which
is caused by using slower shutter speeds.

Better available light photography /focal press

Do a noise test

What is surprising to me is how often people are surprised by
the amount of noise in their images. They crank up their ISO
speed to 1600, shoot at 1/4 second, and are surprised by the
amount and size of the noise. If you like to shoot available light
images—and we have to assume that you do, or you wouldn’t
be reading this book—one of the first things that you should do
with a new camera is make a noise test. Don’t freak out. It won’t
take long and the information will be invaluable.

Set up a situation that will produce longer-than-normal shutter
speeds and use high ISO speeds. Don’t use just one ISO—shoot
at 400, 800, 1600, and whatever else your digital SLR can
produce. Be sure to bracket exposures. Even though digital
capture is not subject to exposure shifts under slower shutter
speeds, bracketing exposures might tell you that slight over- or
underexposure in a given lighting condition might increase or
decrease the effect of digital noise. Be sure to include a known
color target such as a Macbeth ColorChecker (www.gretagmacbeth.
com). Color won’t usually shift, but it provides some smooth
patches that will show noise better than textured ones, and there
are cameras whose color fades as ISO increases.

Open the files and use your image-editing program’s magnifying
tool to look at the noise and determine the optimum settings to
produce the least amount of noise. Take your time and compare
over- and underexposed examples. Although this process won’t
eliminate noise, it will make you aware of what switching from
ISO 400 to 800 will cost you. You may be able to live with the
amount of noise, but if you can’t, you’ll now know that you’ll
need a tripod so you can use a lower ISO speed. Be aware that
longer shutter speeds and any underexposure will exacerbate
digital noise. By taking the time to make these tests, you will
have the information needed to make the right choice for the
lighting conditions you are working under.
--------------------------------------

Shutter speed vs. ISO speed

This is a balancing act based on achieving the best balance for
minimizing noise. Basic rule of thumb is that he always
shoots at the lowest possible ISO setting (in order to minimize
noise) depending on the working conditions. If you have a tripod,
shoot at long shutter speeds to minimize noise because
digital capture is not subject to exposure or color-balance reciprocity
problems that plague traditional film capture.

Reciprocity refers to the inverse relationship between the intensity
and duration of light that determines the correct exposure
of film. During long exposures, fi lm responds much more slowly
than usual, and this affects both the color and the light sensitivity
of film. This is why color fi lm that is “pushed” in the photo lab
to higher ISO settings than what it was designed for sometimes
exhibits a color shift in a certain direction. The film’s light sensitive
grains must be hit by a certain number of light photons
within a certain time frame in order for the latent image to form.
Breakdown in the linear relationship between aperture and
shutter speed is known as reciprocity failure. Each different film
emulsion has a different response to long exposure. Some films
are susceptible to reciprocity failure and others less so. Some
films that are very light sensitive at normal illumination levels
and normal exposure times lose much of their sensitivity during
long exposure times, and some films that have low ISO ratings

Better available light photography/Focal press

Take away from this is : 1.Use tripod and lowest possible ISO.
2. Try camera's NR (noise reduction) settings.
3. Use noise reduction apps in photo editing stage.
 

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Many starting photographers blame equipment for unsatisfactory images

But 99% of the time the problem is behind the camera

If you buy more expensive equipment but your skills stay the same

You will have the same pictures but with more expensive gear
 

Many starting photographers blame equipment for unsatisfactory images

But 99% of the time the problem is behind the camera

If you buy more expensive equipment but your skills stay the same

You will have the same pictures but with more expensive gear

Let's go out to shoot together. I let you use my canon 50D while I use my 1DX2 to shoot the same scene - show me how you will get the same image quality as the 1DX2.

It's a fact of life - There is tonnes of difference in image quality between the consumer level and professional level cameras.
 

Problem is not with the camera. Upgrading to D7000 series will give more conveniences but not solve noise problems inherent to image sensors at entry or pro level types. So some insights to note is...
Noise is more apparent in uniform/plain coloured areas and shadows.Less in bright areas of photo.

What is digital noise?





Take away from this is : 1.Use tripod and lowest possible ISO.
2. Try camera's NR (noise reduction) settings.
3. Use noise reduction apps in photo editing stage.

One of my favourite films was the Ektapress 1600. Grainy but sharp. I now shoot mainly low light above 1600. I shoot RAW and post process to reduce the noise. The Sony A7II helps.
 

Let's go out to shoot together. I let you use my canon 50D while I use my 1DX2 to shoot the same scene - show me how you will get the same image quality as the 1DX2.

It's a fact of life - There is tonnes of difference in image quality between the consumer level and professional level cameras.


Maybe for Canon only

Especially if you compare APS-C to Full Frame

But have you compared D3400 to D7200 at same high ISO setting

As compared to improving technique