B+W ND110 77mm Filter


I don't pixel peep, the colour cast is actually rather apparent after taking the photos... I'll post a photo here when I get home...

no no no, i meant.. for c omparing difference between nd400 and nd110, i have used both, but i don't pixel peep

the color cast is one reason why you see most of my nd110 photos turning out in bnw.. :)

of course, raw can help, but long exposures have that special charm in monochrome, somehow.
 

no no no, i meant.. for c omparing difference between nd400 and nd110, i have used both, but i don't pixel peep

the color cast is one reason why you see most of my nd110 photos turning out in bnw.. :)

of course, raw can help, but long exposures have that special charm in monochrome, somehow.

Ahh I see.... I always tweak the white balance in Lightroom when processing to offset the yellow cast... never really did like b/w landscapes, but I might try some one of these days :bsmilie:
 

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Thanks WK & Lawrence for the information....

I just got the ND400 yesterday..hooray!

Really need to go out there experimenting this extreme/exotic filter soon....:)
 

Thanks WK & Lawrence for the information....

I just got the ND400 yesterday..hooray!

Really need to go out there experimenting this extreme/exotic filter soon....:)

Yay, post more photos, especially on Flickr (I check that for photos from friends more often :bsmilie:)
 

Had a trial and experimenting this filter and here it is an image taken yesterday evening ~6pm.

Let me know what you guys think?

3748947756_27140f3978_b.jpg

Your comment is sincerely welcome....:)

ps: 40sec exposure @ f22 and focal length 10mm. A little vignet and taken care with clone tools.

set temperature a little warmer in ACR and USM at CS4. Thus, image pretty much out from camera....

I reckon the sky in the middle a little blown and I guess GND will taken care this nicely....:)
 

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i do not like moving boats actually, but especially so here, way too many.

also, composition.. half half frame can work, it definitely doesn't here.

also, think of what goes into the frame, even if we overlook evertyhing else mentioned here, that white thing on the left bottom area is quite scary.

exposure seems good though. :)
 

i do not like moving boats actually, but especially so here, way too many.

also, composition.. half half frame can work, it definitely doesn't here.

also, think of what goes into the frame, even if we overlook evertyhing else mentioned here, that white thing on the left bottom area is quite scary.

exposure seems good though. :)

:) Thanks WK for your comment!

Well, image taken late evening and pretty much all the boats/fisherman return up shore. That is why I have a little hard time to frame this shot.

Main purpose is too test out the correct exposure and this is one of the best from couple of others images; its either under or over expose...:)..really need to do the math in how long to expose it..

Pretty fun though where you need to have correct exposure and rushing to get everything in frame before the sun drops....

Yes, agree with the bottom left boat, should have cropped it off but I left it as it is to have comment on the exposure...

Nevertheless, ur advice is much appreciated. :)
 

I agree with the moving boat part.... I'll rather that the boats be still...
Horizon's a little tilted, and if I was in the same location as you, I would move forward a little to cut off the white thing and white (plank?) on both sides.. and burn the clouds for a more dramatic sky :)
 

I agree with the moving boat part.... I'll rather that the boats be still...
Horizon's a little tilted, and if I was in the same location as you, I would move forward a little to cut off the white thing and white (plank?) on both sides.. and burn the clouds for a more dramatic sky :)

Thanks Lawrence for the comment...

I wish the boat can be very 'still' but with 40sec exposure, do you think it can be that still?

Agree with the two boats on both side, would have clone it off... :)

Burning the clouds, this one I really need to spend time on it as till now, do know how to do it....:embrass:
 

If you think thats expensive, wait till you check out Singh Ray's Vari-ND filter, the cost plus shipping plus GST would scare you. lol.

XD Have you guys ever tried 1 X PL + 1 x CPL filter stacked?
Heh that's your Variable ND filter.

LOL it gets you almost a totally opaque glass panel if you turn them 90degrees..
It's many many many times more powerful than a ND100.

In fact I've yet to get a sunny enough day to estimate how much light it cuts out at max polarisation.

And yes, due to the CPL under the PL, the camera will stillfocus.
 

XD Have you guys ever tried 1 X PL + 1 x CPL filter stacked?
Heh that's your Variable ND filter.

LOL it gets you almost a totally opaque glass panel if you turn them 90degrees..
It's many many many times more powerful than a ND100.

In fact I've yet to get a sunny enough day to estimate how much light it cuts out at max polarisation.

And yes, due to the CPL under the PL, the camera will stillfocus.

sorry, may I know what is PL?

do you think stacking these guys together will cause heavy vignet?

i have actually tried stacking the ND400 with CPL and am observing a heavy vignet though I am getting 11 stops summing up both filter together...:bsmilie:
 

And yes, due to the CPL under the PL, the camera will stillfocus.

have you tried a nd110?

the camera cannot focus because there is so little light going through the filter. :bsmilie:
 

XD Have you guys ever tried 1 X PL + 1 x CPL filter stacked?
Heh that's your Variable ND filter.

LOL it gets you almost a totally opaque glass panel if you turn them 90degrees..
It's many many many times more powerful than a ND100.

In fact I've yet to get a sunny enough day to estimate how much light it cuts out at max polarisation.

And yes, due to the CPL under the PL, the camera will stillfocus.

You mean a circular polarizer + a normal polarizer? Won't that be very thick and cause heavy vignetting at the widest angle? I'm already getting vignetting with just the nd110..
 

PL = polariser.
CPL = circular PL.

2 ways to fix vignetting:
1) 1 click fixing in photoshop
2) zoom in abit. Doesn't mean must always shoot at max width. Flexibility is part of photography after all.

Personally I think vignetting is a very simple problem to fix. LOL it's easier to fix than to add a border to an image. Furthermore, most wide angle lenses already has noticable vignetting...

I would think getting a ND with enough darkness is alot harder. I mean, try getting a 2 min exposure in a bright sunny day. Likely, the images will be alot more stunning than that little vignetting would be distracting.

night86mare => Hmmmm I've always thought everyone would pre-focus before using one of those super ND filters. Anyway that's why this Variable ND is good.. Turn to minimum polarisation, focus, fix your focus, switch to manual, then turn to max polarisation. Something you can never do with the ND110. After all, must make use of it's special properties ya? :D
 

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To add to what unseen has mentioned, how do you guys compose with a 10-stop ND filter?

So far I am doing the "compose then put filter on" exercise. Does having a camera with "live view" help? Was wondering if you crank up the ISO to insanely high levels (25,600 etc.), would the sensor be able to pick up anything? If so then having a "live view" camera is a real boon.
 

XD Have you guys ever tried 1 X PL + 1 x CPL filter stacked?
Heh that's your Variable ND filter.

LOL it gets you almost a totally opaque glass panel if you turn them 90degrees..
It's many many many times more powerful than a ND100.

In fact I've yet to get a sunny enough day to estimate how much light it cuts out at max polarisation.

And yes, due to the CPL under the PL, the camera will stillfocus.

i diyed a 2x cpl version, only because i can't find a PL to try with.

which brand is yr PL?
 

To add to what unseen has mentioned, how do you guys compose with a 10-stop ND filter?

So far I am doing the "compose then put filter on" exercise. Does having a camera with "live view" help? Was wondering if you crank up the ISO to insanely high levels (25,600 etc.), would the sensor be able to pick up anything? If so then having a "live view" camera is a real boon.

tripod la.

need to use anyways..

these days i stack nd with gnd.. not ley chey at all. in fact, it makes me think very hard how to compose the scene before i take the shot.

think about it, you need to do 90 second exposure, you need to wait another 90 seconds for long exposure NR (my camera refuses to let me switch it off). you better jolly well make a good composition in case the light disappears and you don't get another chance. :devil:
 

informative... been searching also until i've read this..
TFS!:thumbsup:
 

tripod la.

need to use anyways..

these days i stack nd with gnd.. not ley chey at all. in fact, it makes me think very hard how to compose the scene before i take the shot.

think about it, you need to do 90 second exposure, you need to wait another 90 seconds for long exposure NR (my camera refuses to let me switch it off). you better jolly well make a good composition in case the light disappears and you don't get another chance. :devil:

:bsmilie:

i always miss the light after i do all the composition and properly stacking up the ND and Grad....
 

:bsmilie:

i always miss the light after i do all the composition and properly stacking up the ND and Grad....

that is still fine...

can you imagine the pain and anguish one suffers when the light changes, when you started to stack and meter it was telling you f/8 4 minutes would be fine. so you think "oh, the light's dying, let's compensate and add half a stop more and make it 6 minutes at f/8"..

then after 12 bloody minutes (since my camera can't seem to switch long exposure NR off.. 6 minute exposure, 6 minute waiting time).. you get an underexposed image still. :cry:

the joys of long exposure photography are boundless. :bsmilie: