lens for cosplay


Actually, rather then DoF for such shots...why not go for High Speed Sync Flash to leave the subject illuminated but the background as dark as possible. usually done with strobes but flashguns have gotten a whole lot stronger and smarter since then. Its another way of photographing cosplayers without cost going through the roof with high aperture lens.
 

Last edited:
Actually, rather then DoF for such shots...why not go for High Speed Sync Flash to leave the subject illuminated but the background as dark as possible. usually done with strobes but flashguns have gotten a whole lot stronger and smarter since then. Its another way of photographing cosplayers without cost going through the roof with high aperture lens.

But wouldn't that almost become like "deer in headlights" effect?
 

But wouldn't that almost become like "deer in headlights" effect?

Thats usually the case when starting out but eventually with trial and error...it works. All it takes is practice and knowing the dslr settings. from there can move to off camera flash and eventually strobist techniques like what you see during Cosfest.
532185_10151025080188166_1408816643_n.jpg
 

I used the f1.8 for cosplay, but for your cropped body it may be too tight. Meaning you've to stand back pretty far. For these events I'd prefer the 28mm and 35mm primes
But still the low cost f1.8 does a great job. Here's a sample of 1.8 (with the other gal blurred) of the latest cosplay, shot with no flash

 

Last edited:
Thats usually the case when starting out but eventually with trial and error...it works. All it takes is practice and knowing the dslr settings. from there can move to off camera flash and eventually strobist techniques like what you see during Cosfest.

In your example, how do you shot so strong a flash using on-camera flash in high-speed sync, that you will black out the background in the scene you just showed? Just wondering.
 

Last edited:
But wouldn't that almost become like "deer in headlights" effect?

Adding on to that, good luck trying to walk around the event and shooting subjects with that set-up. You will become an annoyance to others.
 

Last edited:
Not really...saw a guy doing just that on cosfest. basically light stand using clamps fixed with two led lights and flash. I dont know the output he got but technique wise, should look good for portraits without hindering mobility or overly restricting others movement. Maybe i will give it a go as well.
Adding on to that, good luck trying to walk around the event and shooting subjects with that set-up. You will become an annoyance to others.

In your example, how do you shot so strong a flash using on-camera flash in high-speed sync, that you will black out the background in the scene you just showed? Just wondering.
 

Last edited:
Not really...saw a guy doing just that on cosfest. basically light stand using clamps fixed with two led lights and flash. I dont know the output he got but technique wise, looks good for portraits without hindering mobility or overly restricting others movement.

from the picture you showed, the LED is not being used at all isn't it?
 

from the picture you showed, the LED is not being used at all isn't it?
Because its not the person in the photo i showed. The photo was to answer SkyStrike`s question.

The person with the mobile lighting setup i was referring to was moving around inside the hall itself. I was sitting in front of the stage when i noticed him doing his stuff. Quite interesting actually. A lot of the photographers near stage area noticed him as well.
 

Last edited:
Reportage said:
Not really...saw a guy doing just that on cosfest. basically light stand using clamps fixed with two led lights and flash. I dont know the output he got but technique wise, should look good for portraits without hindering mobility or overly restricting others movement. Maybe i will give it a go as well.

I think I know who you are talking about (probably you were referring to the feb cosfest event)... That person was using 2x led lights, from both top and bottom. Not a direct flash light from on hotshoe.
 

Think about this way. You put an LED light in a position that is optimum for your lighting. How about others, especially when you turn on the light just before another guy takes the shot and throws off his metering? Also, putting a light stand restricts others from getting a good shot and in events that still have relatively a bit space. Once you start shooting in events with tighter spacing, you won't be able to use it.
 

I think I know who you are talking about (probably you were referring to the feb cosfest event)... That person was using 2x led lights, from both top and bottom. Not a direct flash light from on hotshoe.

Thats him alright. He was also at the July one only 1st day he came just that he added an option for flash this time around from what i observe.
 

Think about this way. You put an LED light in a position that is optimum for your lighting. How about others, especially when you turn on the light just before another guy takes the shot and throws off his metering? Also, putting a light stand restricts others from getting a good shot and in events that still have relatively a bit space. Once you start shooting in events with tighter spacing, you won't be able to use it.

We can say but others will still do. Have you ever tilt the flash to the side for good lighting but got consider if the flash output might blind the photographer next to you?
 

Actually, rather then DoF for such shots...why not go for High Speed Sync Flash to leave the subject illuminated but the background as dark as possible. usually done with strobes but flashguns have gotten a whole lot stronger and smarter since then. Its another way of photographing cosplayers without cost going through the roof with high aperture lens.

Hahaha do you even know what you are talking about? Why are you trying to give advice on a topic you are not familiar with? HSS is neither necessary or relevant for most cosplay strobist style shots.

To contribute to the thread, a combination of a budget fast prime (35mm f2 or f1.8, or 50mm f1.8) and a small flash, and some patience should give you pretty good results at events.
 

Hahaha do you even know what you are talking about? Why are you trying to give advice on a topic you are not familiar with? HSS is neither necessary or relevant for most cosplay strobist style shots.

To contribute to the thread, a combination of a budget fast prime (35mm f2 or f1.8, or 50mm f1.8) and a small flash, and some patience should give you pretty good results at events.


he pro le. dun argue with him.

later tree climbing skill come out.
 

True but u will NOT get good wide aperture like f/2.0 n below for such zoom lens. U can't get good Bokeh.

i beg to differ.

its actually much easier and nicer bokeh with zoom lens (as compared to wide angle lens).

my Canon 135mm f2 beats my Canon 35mm f1.4 and CZ 21mm f2.8 anytime.
 

Last edited:
I use Iphone 4 16Gb.
 

i beg to differ.

its actually much easier and nicer bokeh with zoom lens (as compared to wide angle lens).

my Canon 135mm f2 beats my Canon 35mm f1.4 and CZ 21mm f2.8 anytime.

Really? My NEX 7 Kit Zoom 18-55 sux big time wif Bokeh at any aperture and focal length. LOL
 

Really? My NEX 7 Kit Zoom 18-55 sux big time wif Bokeh at any aperture and focal length. LOL

its the person using the camera equipment not the lens issue.

6064900567_b55c73c114.jpg


Using a very old manual focus lens (Olympus 200mm f4) shot wide open at f4.

5098891905_e593f23e7e.jpg


Using a Canon 70-200mm f4 shot wide open at f4.

4815092977_b842053a3b.jpg


Using a Canon 135mm f2 shot wide open at f2.

7164479412_33c09ce955.jpg


Using a Canon 135mm f2 shot wide open at f4.
 

Last edited: