What Lens to get for Portrait and LandScape


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The Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 got me pondering about a question.

Under what context would somebody use f2.8 at such wide angle? Does anyone ever shoot landscape at f2.8? I doubt it.

No one shoots group shots at f2.8 also, as mentioned above.

So... What's the intention of the constant f2.8 in this particular lens?

Sorry, kinda new to photography, so might have missed out on something here.

Lens with large maximum aperture allows brighter viewfinder image, which is easier for composition
Who says cannot use f/2.8 for group shots? Depends on what you classify as 'group' ;) does 3 or 4 people count?
A few people side-by-side, possible to even use fast prime (eg 50/1.8) @ f/1.8 and get them all in focus.

If I were to shoot a building's interior handheld, I would certainly appreciate a fast max aperture :)
 

adngoh said:
The Tokina 11-16mm f2.8 got me pondering about a question.

Under what context would somebody use f2.8 at such wide angle? Does anyone ever shoot landscape at f2.8? I doubt it.

No one shoots group shots at f2.8 also, as mentioned above.

So... What's the intention of the constant f2.8 in this particular lens?

Sorry, kinda new to photography, so might have missed out on something here.

Tokina 1116.. At such a wide angle and on a crop frame cam, dof is quite deep actually. I have even shot 2-3 people at f1.4 on FF and 4-5 people group shot at f2 on FF. It depends on a lot of other factors as well.
 

Thanks all for the advise. Think I will b playing ard with my 18-135 first and do more research.

your 18-135 can do the job already. if you need a wider lens, then the tokina 11-16 complements it well.
 

Lens with large maximum aperture allows brighter viewfinder image, which is easier for composition
Who says cannot use f/2.8 for group shots? Depends on what you classify as 'group' ;) does 3 or 4 people count?
A few people side-by-side, possible to even use fast prime (eg 50/1.8) @ f/1.8 and get them all in focus.

If I were to shoot a building's interior handheld, I would certainly appreciate a fast max aperture :)

But if one were to shoot building interior with max aperture, wouldn't you lose some details because of the circles of confusion?

I just did some reading up, didn't know there was something about the hyperfocal distance. So shooting landscape at f2.8 is possible because of this hyperfocal distance concept thingy, right?

Will try to read up more lest I piss anyone off, but thanks for the sharing!
 

But if one were to shoot building interior with max aperture, wouldn't you lose some details because of the circles of confusion?

I just did some reading up, didn't know there was something about the hyperfocal distance. So shooting landscape at f2.8 is possible because of this hyperfocal distance concept thingy, right?

Will try to read up more lest I piss anyone off, but thanks for the sharing!
Yes. If your subject is far enough from the camera sensor, it is possible to shoot landscapes at f2.8
 

But if one were to shoot building interior with max aperture, wouldn't you lose some details because of the circles of confusion?

I just did some reading up, didn't know there was something about the hyperfocal distance. So shooting landscape at f2.8 is possible because of this hyperfocal distance concept thingy, right?

Will try to read up more lest I piss anyone off, but thanks for the sharing!

I'm not quite sure how to answer your first question. Well, if the lens is sharp enough wide open, I don't see a big problem with using the largest aperture when shooting interiors handheld. Particularly if stopping down (for the sake of increasing sharpness) results in a shutter speed that increases the risk of blur due to camera movement.

Regarding the hyperfocal question, just did a check on online DOF calculator. 11mm on a DX camera @ f/2.8 gives me a value for hyperfocal distance of 2.1m. So anything from 1.05m to infinity would be in focus. 1.05m is a short distance indeed.
 

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But if one were to shoot building interior with max aperture, wouldn't you lose some details because of the circles of confusion?

I just did some reading up, didn't know there was something about the hyperfocal distance. So shooting landscape at f2.8 is possible because of this hyperfocal distance concept thingy, right?

Will try to read up more lest I piss anyone off, but thanks for the sharing!

The circle of confusion is used to determine the Depth of Field. And like what some of us had pointed out, if your subject is far enough, even with a f2.8 aperture, everything will still be sharp. That is also the case for interior of a building... some of the interior of a building is massive, some is very small. It all depends, there is really no straight answer to your question unless you spelled out all variables and range of your lens (focal range).
 

And I thought aperture control was as simple as DoF only. For that reason, I tried to do a cathedral interior using f5.0 on my G10, in hope I could capture all the details. Now I know a little more. :)

This is the image I was talking about

I suppose this means I probably could have used f2.8 or 3.5 in that context and not have kept people waiting for the 15s exposure?
 

probably a 17-50 should get you started.
 

And I thought aperture control was as simple as DoF only. For that reason, I tried to do a cathedral interior using f5.0 on my G10, in hope I could capture all the details. Now I know a little more. :)

This is the image I was talking about

I suppose this means I probably could have used f2.8 or 3.5 in that context and not have kept people waiting for the 15s exposure?

Ya that's the consideration. If you're shooting people in front of an interesting background, you can't be using base ISO, f/11 and 20s or something to that extent. Nobody can keep still for such a long time :) So ultimately it's a compromise to get the best possible shot you can.
 

UWA lens is not the best choice for portraits, unless you want to take lollipop like faces with small body. The bribe would be pissed (but the groom would prob laugh it off?). Depends on your shooting style really, 17-55 is good for both, so just get a kit lens lah
 

UWA lens is not the best choice for portraits, unless you want to take lollipop like faces with small body. The bribe would be pissed (but the groom would prob laugh it off?). Depends on your shooting style really, 17-55 is good for both, so just get a kit lens lah

Not totally true. You have to be careful on placement of subjects as well as downward, upward tilt of the lens. But portraits on UWA is still very very doable.
 

I have a question: Wouldn't be a 50mm f1.4 be the most ideal for taking portraits? Besides the Lens, how about what is the best optimal settings for portraits? ISO, huge depth of view, no flash? and WB? I reckon for portraits, the best is to have the subject shot at high contrast be it in colour or Black and white?
 

I have a question: Wouldn't be a 50mm f1.4 be the most ideal for taking portraits? Besides the Lens, how about what is the best optimal settings for portraits? ISO, huge depth of view, no flash? and WB? I reckon for portraits, the best is to have the subject shot at high contrast be it in colour or Black and white?

1. No, you can use any lens you want to, it depends on the effect you want. Focal length will affect perspective. Some people also shoot at 16mm, some at 200mm.
2. Depth of view? No such thing. You mean depth of field? Generally people want a thin depth of field, not a deep one.
3. Flash/no flash: Depends on the lighting and the shot you want.
4. ISO: Depends on the lighting and the effect you want.
5. White Balance: Depends on the lighting conditions where you are.
6. Contrast: Up to you and your style.

You are looking for a magic formula where there is none. All of your questions are dependent on your photographic style, and are things you should determine on your own.

There are dozens of online articles about portrait photography, and books in the library too. Start reading.

Also, please don't crash someone else's threads. Your post has been reported.
 

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danskie76

IMHO, you are very rude. People had gave you good info and advice yet you use words on them.
 

Shouldn't we just stick to what TS is asking about?

Let's just move on from here. :D
 

To danskie76,

You have a new question, you can start your own thread to find out what you need to know, the current thread title does not closely related to what you want to know, you may not able to get the responds you are looking for and it is not so nice to crash other members' thread.


I have move the your posts and replies to your own thread.

all other OT posts and inappropriate comments has been deleted.

Please be civil on your posting. and be nice to all who had helped you.

take this as a warning, there won't be any warning the next time if I ever see any rude comments from you towards others.



original poster already gotten the answers he is looking for, hence this thread closed.
 

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