Which medium format camera to get?


Astolover

New Member
Jan 6, 2013
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Singapore
Hello guys, I've always wanted to get into medium format film photography after trying out 35mm film, wondering how much more quality does it have to offer. I began my research on medium format film cameras around a month or two ago, and have narrowed down to these few cameras:
Hasselblad 500 series
Mamiya C330
Zeiss Super Ikonta B
Pentacon Six
Mamiya 6
Fuji GW690

As you can see I have shortlisted all sorts of camera; SLRs, TLRs, folding cameras, rangefinders, etc, etc.
Well to me the type of camera doesn't really matter that much, but I'm just in a dilemma as to which camera should I get? I have a nice digital system (Fuji x series) and a 35mm film (zeiss contaflex), and just want to try out medium format for my own personal interests (I'm not a professional, just a hobbyist that appreciates analog photography).Any of you guys have any encounters with these cameras and would like to share your experiences? With my modest budget of around 500-1000, which camera would be the most feasible? Any advices? Other recommendations are welcomed as well, and lastly which shop(s) in Singapore can I get them from (I know the Peninsula area, but any specific shops that have a comprehensive collection of medium format gear?)

Thanks in advance, and happy shooting :D
 

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Hello guys, I've always wanted to get into medium format film photography after trying out 35mm film, wondering how much more quality does it have to offer. I began my research on medium format film cameras around a month or two ago, and have narrowed down to these few cameras:
Hasselblad 500 series
Mamiya C330
Zeiss Super Ikonta B
Pentacon Six
Mamiya 6
Fuji GW690

As you can see I have shortlisted all sorts of camera; SlRs, TLRs, folding cameras, rangefinders, etc, etc.
Well to me the type of camera doesn't really matter that much, but I'm just in a dilemma as to which camera should I get? I have a nice digital system (Fuji x series) and a 35mm film (zeiss contaflex), and just want to try out medium format for my own personal interests (I'm not a professional, just a hobbyist that appreciates analog photography).Any of you guys have any encounters with these cameras and would like to share your experiences? With my modest budget of around 500-1000, which camera would be the most feasible? Any advices? Other recommendations are welcomed as well, and lastly which shop(s) in Singapore can I get them from (I know the Peninsula area, but any specific shops that have a comprehensive collection of medium format gear?)

Thanks in advance, and happy shooting :D
 

For your budget why not try hunting for a Mamiya M645. It within your price point and if you are lucky you might find 1 with the auto winder.
 

Hi, a camera is a tool. Instead of asking which one why not ask what you want to shoot?

Hasselblad 500 series - may need to spend to have it fixed, lenses are not cheap
*Mamiya C330 - too heavy C220F much better, you may need to buy extra lenses
Zeiss Super Ikonta B - very old camera may need to spend to have it fixed, Rolleicord Vb is beter
*Pentacon Six - don't ... reliability issue, the old Zeiss/Rissian P6 lenses are cheap but so so
*Mamiya 6 - nice camera but not cheap
*Fuji GW690 - version 1 can be cheap now, only 8 shots from a 120 roll, very sharp

I have owned/used/sold almost every one of the model. Many are now very old machines and very problematic.

If you shoot people mainly, a Rolleicord Vb / Seagull 4BI / Yashicamat / Rolleiflex 3.5 are better bets.
If you shoot landscapes a Fuji GW690 is good. But many only shoot a few rolls and sell it.

If you shoot slides, the Rolleiflex and GW690 are beautiful
B&W the Rolleicord Vb, old Mamiya 8cm are very nice.

Don't forget, when you buy a MF cam, you got to buy a whole lot of accessories.
 

My personal preference;

TLR - Rolleicord Va or Vb, lighter, cheaper and less parts to have problem with compared to Rolleiflex.

SLR - Pentax 6x7/67, heavy but definitely hand-heldable (lighter than my D700 with the 24-120 lens), good lenses at affordable prices. Only thing is no interchangable backs. Like it as I do not need much cropping when wet printing the negatives.

RF/PnS - Any of the Fujis GS, GW, GA series.
 

Every MF cam has its interesting points.
Just buy one and start playing with it .
Learning along the way .
The fun is after all in the learning .
You would like everyone else , end up with quite a few .
Some you will love and some you will not .
Have fun .
 

Hey guys, thanks for all the input, really appreciate it :)

I got myself a Zeiss Ercona II (the East German version of the Zeiss Ikonta C), and shot a roll of Ektar through it. The main reason that I went for this was because I can shoot both 6x6 and 6x9 by using masks (for 6x6) and I've heard nothing but good things about the 105mm 3.5 Tessar lens.

I really anticipate the results :D

p.s. TLRs are tempting too, and I could see myself owning one in the foreseeable future XD
 

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Hi, Im not sure whether should i get a mamiya c330 or rolleicord VB. I never hold a rolleicord, but mamiya for me is not that heavvy. I am new to TLR / Film shooting. Im currently using dslr to shoot portraiture and fashion, wanted to use a film came to give it a try. (i know its lame, im really attracted by the TLR design :p). can you advised?
 

Seagull 4B. Cheap, reasonable quality. Light so easy to carry around. Not too difficult to use, but quirky enough that you will get a lot of satisfaction from mastering it. Will get you interesting looks from people in the street. Still available new from Seng Cheong.

Fuji GA645. Somewhat more expensive but easy-to-use point-and-shoot MF camera. Quite small for a MF. Only drawback is that it is 6x4.5 so the negative will be smaller than the 6x6 or 6x9 from the Seagull or Zeiss Ikonta. Only available second-hand.
 

The rolleicords are god send. Sharp and contrasty lens, well built and cheap. The rolleicord 3 and above have the same excellent Xenar lens. The best bang for your buck would be the V. The Vb is a bit overpriced and for a shooter, not worth the premium unless u want to use the prism, which defeats the purpose of a TLR IMHO. The III don't have the auto advance function which I find inconvenient. U can get a nice V in *bay for about USD200 and it will last u a lifetime.

The accessories are cheaper too for the rolleicords since they are bay 1. The bay 3 are too overpriced.
 

@lualua, just to check with you, how do u find the Rolleicord Vb + Xenar 1:3.5/75 mm performance? good?
 

Rollei uses the same lens from rolleicord III to Vb. It's an excellent lens with very vibrant colours. I've printed up to 20x20 inches with no issues. I cannot find any difference in the quality, even at the corners if u shoot at 5.6 or smaller.
 

Just out of curiosity, how do the lenses of Rolleiflexes and Rolleicords compare when shot wide open? I vaguely remembered someone on the web mentioning that the 'flexes lens are 5 element designs while the 'cords lenses are 4 element designs, not very sure though...
 

Hi, Im not sure whether should i get a mamiya c330 or rolleicord VB. I never hold a rolleicord, but mamiya for me is not that heavvy. I am new to TLR / Film shooting. Im currently using dslr to shoot portraiture and fashion, wanted to use a film came to give it a try. (i know its lame, im really attracted by the TLR design :p). can you advised?

Mamiya C330 unless you get a good new old stock copy or latest version, you will encounter a lot of usability problem. Light leak at bellows, counter advance jam, lens mount wear, light seal leaks. A bunch of issues. Most were beaten up in studios and then put on ebay. I know these cameras for over 20 years and by today most I see have issues. Even the old C220 have issues. Unless you can find a new old stock my advise is dont waste time.

C330 has lens compatibility with old chrome and new black lense. The black 80mm 2.8 is too modern and does not have character. The chrome 8cm 2.8 is much better. Another one is the 105mm 3.5 and the 65mm F3.5. Again, these lenses are very old, and most have lost the precision alighnment due to user self repair. Many lenses I see had the back ring removed by crude methods, and the ring have issue means they will not sit onto the lens board properly. You again will have issues on the film advance and cocking of the shuttle. If you want a good Mamiya, the only good option is the C220F with an old chrome 8cm F2.8 lens (4 element planar copy) / 10.5cm F3.5 (Heliar copy).

Rolleicord V is a better option. But not really easy to get a good copy. Ask lualua. By the way the viewfinder is dim and I had replaced mine.
 

Just out of curiosity, how do the lenses of Rolleiflexes and Rolleicords compare when shot wide open? I vaguely remembered someone on the web mentioning that the 'flexes lens are 5 element designs while the 'cords lenses are 4 element designs, not very sure though...

Rolleicords were the cheaper alternatives to the more upmarket Rolleiflex.

Usually Rolleicords have the Schneider Xenar F3.5 taking lens with a similar view lens. The top and bottom lenses are calibrated in factory so they are in sync from near to infinity. The Xenar is a 3 group 4 element design derived from the Tessar.

The Rolleiflex has more variations. The 80mm F2.8 can be a Zeiss Planar, or a Scheneider Xenotar. Rolleiflexes also come in 75mm F3.5 versions (Tessar or the Xenar). The Rolleiflex Xenar for some reasons performs much better than the Rolleicord Xenars in color. So I assume there are different grades of Xenar lenses which Rollei never bother to disclose. The Bigger Rolleiflex 2.8F are really expensive now. I bought a 2.8F Schneiser for about $600 in 1997. Not the price shot up to over 1.5k.

Of course, pictures from a Rolleiflex 2.8 is still one of the best in the MF arena.
 

For the Rolleis, there are also variations like the RolleiMagic which is a automatic Rolleicord. I have 2 of them and not really impressed with the lens. The automatic part is pretty bad.

The Seagull 4A-107 (export model WWSC) was a very successful copy of the Rolleiflex 3.5 Tessar with a fraction of the performances. The Seagull 4A107 has a 3 group 4 element Tessar copy lens. But it is a F8 lens so to speak it has to be shot stopped down.

The Seagull 4B-1 has a 3 group 3 element Cooke lens (not a Xenar) that displaces a swirling bokeh shot wide open. It is very cheap and a good alternative to a Rolleicord. But the film advance is very manual (by index window). You can end up rolling the whole roll (esp with certain film) or make a lot of double exposures, no exposure... ha ha.