I just bought a Canon F-1n (center weight) and a New F-1 (center weight) and it seems that Mercury PX-625 battery is not available and using Alkaline ones @1.5V affects the metering (tried to figure out if it is always under or always over but seems to be not consistent after rolls of test shot). I was told that using the Lithium ones are better for the New F-1. Currently I have been using 4LR44 alkaline. All my life I have only used my 24 year-old New F-1 with Spot Metering screen and up to now has no problem with exposure using in-camera reading.
So I decided to buy a simple L-208 and I have a few questions (think easier to ask then to waste a few rolls).
1. Incident light. If under the sun (since always sunny here) or indoor like a evenly lighted ballroom, take the incident lighting reading and shoot at that reading for portraitures? Naturally need to compensate for filters used.
2. Can I take Incident or Reflected reading by holding filters in front of the light meter? Sort of like TTL:think:? Are the f-stop number on the filters accurate (I use only Hoya, B+W and some of them are also 24 years old)? Are multicoated black and white filters better? They are hard to find and much more expensive.
3. Taking reflected reading, can I get very close (like 1m away) to the main subject and take a reading, emulating a spot metering? Then use this reading to take let say 15m away? Like taking a person under the shade. Or it makes more sense/accurate to us Incident Light? (Need to compensate?)
4. Is there a maximum adaptor rings you can use? I have lenses of varies sizes (and those I plan to have). Forgot to mention I also shooting on a ZI rangefinder. So I have like a set of 72-77 mainly for my Canon and 58-62 for my CZ, VM and some Canon Lenses. I know it makes more sens to have like 43-58, 46-58, 52-58, 55-58 then 58-62 if necessary. However some I cannot find so by chance/availability I have 43->46->52->58->62 and 55->58->62 and with certain lenses/filter combination, It can be 4 adaptor rings! Kind of looks good, like a metal hood and save on the CZ hoods
. I have not notice any optical degradation (well have not blown them big enough (and test shot with 1 or 4 rings for same filter and on same roll) or get a good enough scan to pixel peak)
5. Related but off-topic: How to set circular-polar if camera got no TTL metering? Or set it using a light meter? Well "simple" is to just set it on a TTL camera (turn until 1 stop drop in reading) and remember the mark which I always forgot.
Where is the best place to process (E-6 no choice la, Fotohub) B&W, C41 and get high quality scan. I have tried many places without scanning as I have a simple flatbed (Canon 8800F) but there is always scratches etc without fail (and not inflicted by my handling or air jetting) and from like 5 different shops! Yesterday I tried Fotohub and develop with 16 base scanning, Better, only 2 frames got small scratch marks from the scanned pictures; or are they not removed by software? I have not checked the actual negative yet; under stacks of magazine before I scan them myself. Collecting 2 more rolls from them today and see if they are better. Their 16 base scan no better than what I get from scanning 3200dpi with auto unsharp mask (I find this resolution the best after many many tries:sweat on my Canon using the built in software. Silverfast better but tedious and I have the trial copy only (original very X:bigeyes.
Hope someone can answer some of my questions.
Thanks.
So I decided to buy a simple L-208 and I have a few questions (think easier to ask then to waste a few rolls).
1. Incident light. If under the sun (since always sunny here) or indoor like a evenly lighted ballroom, take the incident lighting reading and shoot at that reading for portraitures? Naturally need to compensate for filters used.
2. Can I take Incident or Reflected reading by holding filters in front of the light meter? Sort of like TTL:think:? Are the f-stop number on the filters accurate (I use only Hoya, B+W and some of them are also 24 years old)? Are multicoated black and white filters better? They are hard to find and much more expensive.
3. Taking reflected reading, can I get very close (like 1m away) to the main subject and take a reading, emulating a spot metering? Then use this reading to take let say 15m away? Like taking a person under the shade. Or it makes more sense/accurate to us Incident Light? (Need to compensate?)
4. Is there a maximum adaptor rings you can use? I have lenses of varies sizes (and those I plan to have). Forgot to mention I also shooting on a ZI rangefinder. So I have like a set of 72-77 mainly for my Canon and 58-62 for my CZ, VM and some Canon Lenses. I know it makes more sens to have like 43-58, 46-58, 52-58, 55-58 then 58-62 if necessary. However some I cannot find so by chance/availability I have 43->46->52->58->62 and 55->58->62 and with certain lenses/filter combination, It can be 4 adaptor rings! Kind of looks good, like a metal hood and save on the CZ hoods
. I have not notice any optical degradation (well have not blown them big enough (and test shot with 1 or 4 rings for same filter and on same roll) or get a good enough scan to pixel peak)5. Related but off-topic: How to set circular-polar if camera got no TTL metering? Or set it using a light meter? Well "simple" is to just set it on a TTL camera (turn until 1 stop drop in reading) and remember the mark which I always forgot.
Where is the best place to process (E-6 no choice la, Fotohub) B&W, C41 and get high quality scan. I have tried many places without scanning as I have a simple flatbed (Canon 8800F) but there is always scratches etc without fail (and not inflicted by my handling or air jetting) and from like 5 different shops! Yesterday I tried Fotohub and develop with 16 base scanning, Better, only 2 frames got small scratch marks from the scanned pictures; or are they not removed by software? I have not checked the actual negative yet; under stacks of magazine before I scan them myself. Collecting 2 more rolls from them today and see if they are better. Their 16 base scan no better than what I get from scanning 3200dpi with auto unsharp mask (I find this resolution the best after many many tries:sweat
on my Canon using the built in software. Silverfast better but tedious and I have the trial copy only (original very X:bigeyes.Hope someone can answer some of my questions.
Thanks.
