"This was the most dangerous part of Pakistan's Indus Valley, a remote area in Sindh where several foreigners had been kidnapped. It was also where a group of hunters still practiced a 5000 year old method of catching waterfowl. The hunters would tie pet herons to a hoop in the water, then drop to their necks in the water wearing these incredible masks made from real birds. They'd wiggle their heads to mimic a swimming bird, then grab any waterfowl that landed nearby. We couldn't stay long, however. By police order all boats - including the one we were on - had to be onshore by sunset or else we'd be sitting ducks for the bandits that came out after dark. I asked our machine-gun toting guard that would hapen if were were attacked. "Either I am lucky or they are lucky," he replied. Lucky for me, we never found out.