Shooting Film on Digital


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jem777vbk

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Jan 31, 2006
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#1
Dear all, pardon this very stupid question or thought. Well, one of my very good friend gave me a nikon f801s, and another good friend gave me a nikon 1.4 ais manual focus lens (love that baby!). I am currently shooting digital now with D50 and other lens such as VR and etc...

so the thing goes here, i tested the f801s on a fuji superia 400 film with 50mm 1.4... while the print outs looks horrible (color not nice and stuffs cos I ask the person not to do anything to it), the digital version is fantastic. All the details is fantastic.. saturation can be adjusted in Photoshop, which I did. I very much love the film... as it has grain and all the satisfaction of not knowing how it will turn out before developing the film...

question is, are there any developer out there that will develop the film but not print? I rather keep the digital, touch it up myself before sending for print.

Also, what is the biggest size the digital file can go? The developer I used gave me only 1024x1544 pixels.. zzzz....

Anyone can advise? I know it is ridiculous to go this way, but man..... film.. i love it.
 

smtan24

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Dec 21, 2005
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#2
Have you though of getting a film scanner. If I'm not wrong one member was selling his.
 

raptor84

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#3
You shloud have asked the developer to give you a 16base scan and not a 4base one :) Also most developers will so developing only if you ask. The services offered/wanted subforum has a few good photolabs advertising...
 

Apr 16, 2004
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#4
I would suggest going to Kim Tian Digital in Upper Cross Street. They will develop and scan to 16 base (3600 x 2400 jpegs) for about $10. You can specify your general preferance for colour balance to Michelle.

If you are using such a fast lens, you really ought to be using slower films. Id suggest Reala or Pro160S.
 

jem777vbk

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#5
woohoo.. great!! thanks. 16base scan, please enlighten me on the difference between the two..

2400 x 3600px for 10 dollars for a roll of film? Fantastic!

I will take your advice and try to use the other films, I hope kim tian sells them as well.

All of you guys doing the same thing as I am? Into film? :thumbsup:
 

dreamerz

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Aug 13, 2005
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#8
LKSC said:
I would suggest going to Kim Tian Digital in Upper Cross Street. They will develop and scan to 16 base (3600 x 2400 jpegs) for about $10. You can specify your general preferance for colour balance to Michelle.

If you are using such a fast lens, you really ought to be using slower films. Id suggest Reala or Pro160S.
i jus develop n scan(16base) my film at kt...the resolution is 5444x3649...n it cost $12/roll...:thumbsup:
 

jem777vbk

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#9
5444 x 3649? Amazing for 12 buckeroos.. nice. thanks..

snoweagle, you suggested I shoot slides. Well, have thought about that, but I am still very much amateur I guess, I may burn my slides with overexposed light due to poor metering skills. :D
 

Snoweagle

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Jan 26, 2005
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#10
jem777vbk said:
snoweagle, you suggested I shoot slides. Well, have thought about that, but I am still very much amateur I guess, I may burn my slides with overexposed light due to poor metering skills. :D
U can try the auto mode for a start. Try 1 roll and see the difference! :)
 

drake336

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Jan 21, 2006
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#11
^^^^^^^^^
What he said...

For a shooter who started with film and went digital subsequently, I would rate colour saturation from best to worst: positive film (slides), digital, negative films. We all have to start somewhere so go ahead an blow a roll of E6 film (I recommend Fuji Velvia or it's poorer cousin Kodak EVS if you are really looking punch in the gut colours...)

Dynamic range is another matter but that's OT at the moment...

Also keep in mind that not all shops out there can colour balance Superia (based on Reala technology) properly due to the 4th colour layer (that's why sometimes it better to use Kodak with you process at the neighbourhood shop)...
 

drake336

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Jan 21, 2006
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#12
Forgot to mention... if you love grains, try to get a hold on a roll of Kodak X-Pan or Ilford *something* (forgot which grade, think you can search on the net)...

Push it to ISO400 and shoot low key. You will get your grains :)
 

jem777vbk

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Jan 31, 2006
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#15
Lazy me. I started this thread and until now I have not gone down to kim tian.. zzzzz... now i have 2 rolls and 1 almost finishing, then I will go... hopefully all is well. Will buy a slide film too to test it out...

Just got a tokina 20-35mm f2.8 second hand... wide wide.. no marney for 17-35... wife will kill me.. heh heh heh... now just testing that baby before going kim tian.

To all those who are watching this thread and has enlightened me, thanks a lot... really appreciated it. Will keep you guys posted on my film journey. Now I thought of selling my D50 and get a D200.. or should I? zzz.. see how.. or get an F100... arh... torn torn man. Broke as well...
 

lsisaxon

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Nov 29, 2004
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#16
jem777vbk said:
Dear all, pardon this very stupid question or thought. Well, one of my very good friend gave me a nikon f801s, and another good friend gave me a nikon 1.4 ais manual focus lens (love that baby!). I am currently shooting digital now with D50 and other lens such as VR and etc...

so the thing goes here, i tested the f801s on a fuji superia 400 film with 50mm 1.4... while the print outs looks horrible (color not nice and stuffs cos I ask the person not to do anything to it), the digital version is fantastic. All the details is fantastic.. saturation can be adjusted in Photoshop, which I did. I very much love the film... as it has grain and all the satisfaction of not knowing how it will turn out before developing the film...

question is, are there any developer out there that will develop the film but not print? I rather keep the digital, touch it up myself before sending for print.

Also, what is the biggest size the digital file can go? The developer I used gave me only 1024x1544 pixels.. zzzz....

Anyone can advise? I know it is ridiculous to go this way, but man..... film.. i love it.
There is no such thing as don't do any correction for film. the different batches will have slight colour differences and the bar code at the edge of the film tells the machine how to correct. Not many labs can print from negatives well. Try ColourLab at Adelphi.

Even for slides, you can get very close to the real colour without anything done but there is still some very slight correction needed.

I used to shoot film. I find digital more convenient for the kind of things I shoot.

Don't worry too much about slides. If you are able to meter properly for digital, it should be ok for slides. It would be useful to set your camera to meter 1/3 or 1/2 stop under. Then most of your slides should come out ok.
 

jem777vbk

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Jan 31, 2006
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#17
What I meant was, I asked the people to just develop the photos for me as the machine would, without adjusting anything.

I have terrible experience when I ask them to print a very warmed colour digital file, their operator go and set auto levels for me, making my photo bad.

Anyway, thanks, I will try slides one day.
 

SpyHunter

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Sep 22, 2003
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#18
colour slides are pretty fun to shoot! just make sure you have the correct exposure, like snoweagle said, go for auto first.. if you're comfortable with it then head on to manual.. beautiful colours =) try kodak e100 vs(vivid saturation)
 

Snoweagle

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Jan 26, 2005
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#19
SpyHunter said:
colour slides are pretty fun to shoot! just make sure you have the correct exposure, like snoweagle said, go for auto first.. if you're comfortable with it then head on to manual.. beautiful colours =) try kodak e100 vs(vivid saturation)
My first slides were Velvia 100. When i got it developed, i was :bigeyes:
 

jem777vbk

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Jan 31, 2006
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#20
haha.. ok ok.. true hard core slide fans you guys are.. so I will need a light box... do they do scans for you as well from slides to digital? :think:
 

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