SGTrekker 10D Tibet Photography Tour (22 Jun-1 Jul 2012)

[SgTrekker]

Cover Page - Tibet by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

My spiritual journey began even before we departed for Tibet; as our destination was wrought with logistical headaches with the last minute visa cancellations, permits, administration and all. It was a true test of character and faith; and with sheer grit, abit of luck, perserverance and the ever helpful experience of our Tibetan counterparts, we managed to depart for the mystical land of Tibet (via Nepal overland). What followed was a journey of discovery of a land steeped in religious fervor, of high mountain passes, snow capped peaks, magical landscapes and friendly people, a Spiritual Beauty...

 

[SgTrekker]

We began our journey with an overland entry via Kathmandu, Nepal. The idea was to slowly aclimatize to the dizzying altitudes that lay ahead of us and indeed it proved a prudent decision as most of the members succumbed to mild AMS at barely 2500m. From Kathmandu, we would travel overland past the border towns of Kodari (Nepal side) and Zhang Mu (China side) into Tibet, staying over at the small towns of Nyalam and Tingri before hitting the 2nd largest city in Tibet - Shigatse. From Shigatse, we would visit Gyantse, a picturesque county, as well as the Yamdrok Tso Lake, one of the four holy lakes in Tibet, only reaching Lhasa on the 5th day of our journey.


Nepal Tibet Overland Tour Map by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

To get our photography lingam going, we visited the largest Hindu temple, Pashupatinath in Kathmandu on the first day. Located on the banks of the Bagmati river in Kathmandu, this temple served as the seat of the diety, Lord Pashupatinath and is listed as a UNESCO Heritage site. The highlight here of course were the cremations that took place daily.

Pashupatinath Temple - The Cycle of Life & Death

Pashupatinath Temple

Pashupatinath Temple by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

Onlookers at Pashupatinath

Onlookers at Pashupatinath Temple by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

Washing the Pyre

Washing the Pyre by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

Last Meal Rites

Last Meal Rites on the Pyre by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

 

[SgTrekker]

Loading the body

Loading the body by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

One Final Photo

One Final Photo by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

The Final Farewell

The Final Farewell by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

Lighting the body

Lighting the Body by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

Released from Suffering

Released from suffering by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

 

[SgTrekker]

A caretaker's duty

The Caretaker's Final Duties by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

Clearing Rites

Clearing Rites by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

So it was a sluggish start; with our photographers stretching their limbs and searching for that familarity with the knobs and dials on their camera, trying to get into their rhythem, but an interesting end to an otherwise uneventful first day. Over dinner that night, thoughts were whether we would actually get past the Chinese border at Zhang Mu, but we were already here and that was what matters. It was a restless first night indeed.

 

[SgTrekker]

We began Day 2 in trepidation, as we headed to Kodari, the Nepali border town at the Chinese border. Would we be turned back at the border? How was the situation in Tibet after the immolations? It was a long 5 hour journey and the quality of the Nepalese roads didn't help. The weather was gloomy and it was raining when we reached Kodari. We were marched up to the Chinese border town of Zhang Mu in a single file in the stinging rain and after a 2 hour wait, we were finally through! We had officially made it to Tibet! The border towns of Zhang Mu was relatively picturesque. After a good lunch, we went about exploring the town before heading to the small town of Nyalam where we would spend the night.


Zhang Mu Border Town by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr


Girl at Zhang Mu by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr


Girl at Zhang Mu 2 by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

 

[SgTrekker]

The weather immediately turned as we headed out on the 3rd day. With clear blue skies and fluffy clouds, we were really excited about what lay ahead. All the problems and headaches before the tour were suddenly worth it as we passed by majestic mountain passes, small Tibetan towns full of character and fields of green and gold as we headed toward the old town of Tingri. Was there some divine power at work, teaching me the value of persistance? I couldn't help but feel so...


Enroute to Nyalam by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr


Enroute to Nyalam 2 by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr


Enroute to Nyalam 3 by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

 

[SgTrekker]

By the time we hit Tingri, it was about noon (12pm). The days in Tibet were longer, sunrises were at 7.30am and sunsets around 9.30pm. Tingri was also at 4200m, and most of our photographers felt it. Headaches, nausea and almost everyone had slight AMS (Accute Mountain Sickness) as Panadol and Diamox were readily dispensed. It was a good thing we didn't include meals on the trip since no one had really any apetite and just ordered what we felt like eating from the menu. We stayed at the Amdo Hotel in Tingri which was known for its MoMos (stuffed dumplings). Accommodation was basic and some of us were already bedridden with throbbing headaches. However, this was expected as part of the acclimatisation process, which would prepare us for the highlight of the trip - Lhasa!

Tingri Old Town was like a scene out of a western movie. Dusty roads, wandering lost souls and mild sandstorms. I really liked Tingri due to the character of the place. At night, the skies were lit by a thousand stars...

Old Tingri Town (4200m)


Old Tingri Town by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr


Horses Grazing at Tingri by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr


Impending Storm at Old Tingri Town by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr


Sandstorm at Tingri by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr


Night Shoot at Tingri by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

 

[tecnica]

wah, the funeral.. such intense feeling...

 

[acpical]

Camping!

 

[Daoyin]

Always interested in a good tale.

 

[Champagne888]

_MG_0059 20120622-Nepal, Kathmandu by champagne888, on Flickr


_MG_0063 silent farewell 20120622-Nepal, Kathmandu by champagne888, on Flickr

A silent farewell to the departed

 

[SgTrekker]

By the 4th day, most of us were feeling down due to the altitude. Most of us had a throbbing headache that just refused to go away and the basic accommodation facilities at Nyalam and Tingri didn't help. I wondered how could the local Tibetans live in such conditions and really admired their hardy and gritty spirit. They were a tough people indeed, making use of whatever they could find, and yet, finding happiness in such simplicity at the same time.

I will not take my gas stove for granted anymore

Tibetan Woman Boiling Water by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

After Tingri, we continued on our journey toward Shigatse. My head was heavy and my vision blur from the altitude sickness, i was drifting in and out of sleep on the bus and felt like i had smoked a tonne of marijuana. A fushion of blue, green and gold whizzed past, it was like travelling within a painting.


Pastures of Green & Gold by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

 

[SgTrekker]

After numerous crossings, and alternating altitudes, we finally arrived at Shigatse (3500m), the 2nd largest town in Tibet after Lhasa. By now, most of us were coping better with the altitudes and as expected, were slowly acclimatizing. We stayed at the Yak Hotel in Shigatse, a 3-4 star hotel with a rather seedy massage parlour behind. But we had soft comfortable beds, hot water and aircon!

The highlight here was the Tashilumpo Monastery, founded by the first Dalai Lama and is the traditional seat of the Panchen Lama (2nd most important monk after the Dalai Lama). The monastery was filled with narrow alleys and twisting corners. It was like, you never knew what was round the corner. Alot of devotees and pilgrims come here to walk the Lingkor (sacred path) outside and within the walls of this majestic monastery, which offered a myriad of portraiture opportunities.

Entering the Tashilumpo Monastery

Entrance to Tashilumpo by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

A waiting monk

Monk at Tashilumpo Monastery by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

Deep in prayer

Deep in Prayer at Tashilumpo by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

Devotees Gathering

Family at Tashilumpo Monastery by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

Consulting an Elder

Consulting an Elder (Tashilumpo) by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

 

[SgTrekker]

The 10th Panchen Lama - a photogenic chap, you'll find his photos everywhere!

10th Panchen Lama (Tashilumpo) by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

A novice monk with a set of mantras

Novice Monk (Tashilumpo) by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

Immerse yourself in the study of Buddhism

Studious Monk (Tashilumpo) by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

Great day for an ice cream

Monks at Tashilumpo by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

An informal discussion

An Informal Discussion (Tashilumpo) by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

 

[SgTrekker]

Photography within the chapels were strictly prohibited, however, for a fee (75 Yuan), you are allowed to take photos.


Monks within Chapel (Tashilumpo) by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

 

[Daoyin]

Photography within the chapels were strictly prohibited, however, for a fee (75 Yuan), you are allowed to take photos.


Monks within Chapel (Tashilumpo) by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

This photo alone is worth 75 yuan.

 

[acpical]

Photography within the chapels were strictly prohibited, however, for a fee (75 Yuan), you are allowed to take photos.

RMB75 for one shot, or unlimited number?

 

[SgTrekker]

From Shigatse, we headed out toward Lhasa. It was going to be a long drive, almost 8 hours, zig zagging past mountainous roads and expansive lakes, but it was also one of the most rewarding days from a photography point of view. I had initially requested we visit a local Sherpa's home and we stopped 25 minutes outside Shigatse to visit a small little town called Sha Lu, which was where our guide Topla was from. From the mainroad, it was a good 30 minute walk through granola fields and warm green pastures. Only Topla's grandmother lived there now and we decided to pay her a visit.


Enroute to Tobla's home by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

Like most Tibetan homes, the lower half is where they usually keep the animals and animal food, as well as general farming stores.


Barn level for the animals by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

The top level was reserved for humans and is where the family stayed. Tibetan's tend to have extended families living together and it was not uncommon to have up to 15 people living under one roof. Apparently, China's one child policy back then didn't apply to farming communities. More hands made less work.


Top level for living by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

Intruders in the living room

The living room (Toblas Home) by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

The Kitchen

The kitchen (Toblas Home) by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

 

[SgTrekker]

Topla's grandmother wasn't at home, so we decided to help ourselves to her barley beer. Pretty soon, everyone was getting cosy. (Notice the tipsy one in the middle, he refused to let go of the barley wine, whole face was getting RED too!!!)


Group Shot at Topla's Home by Singapore Trekker, on Flickr

 

[SgTrekker]

Hey Acrux, its 75 Yuan unlimited shots, you can even ask the monk to pose for you, whole thing was rather commercialised though, as he returned change for my 100 Yuan from the donation box... :S