radio slaves


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dslang

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Jul 14, 2005
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been looking at getting a set of pocketwizards lately. then i realised i'd be paying 465US$ for a transmitter and 2 receivers for the PW Plus, and i really dont wanna have to spend that much money.

I wont be very far away from my flashes, but they have to work with objects in the way and in the outdoors, so they'd be behind biking dirtjumps and such.

do you guys know if any of these work well?
http://search.ebay.com/search/searc...ftrt=1&ftrv=1&saprclo=&saprchi=&fsop=1&fsoo=1

paying $50US for a set of slaves that would last me till I can justify paying for a set of PW Multimaxs would be great. Naturally I dont expect them to be perfect, especially for that price, but if they worked most of the time, it'd be pretty useful.

Set up- Nikon D70, sb800, sb600.

Any help would be greately appreciated
-David
 

dslang said:
been looking at getting a set of pocketwizards lately. then i realised i'd be paying 465US$ for a transmitter and 2 receivers for the PW Plus, and i really dont wanna have to spend that much money.

I wont be very far away from my flashes, but they have to work with objects in the way and in the outdoors, so they'd be behind biking dirtjumps and such.

do you guys know if any of these work well?
http://search.ebay.com/search/searc...ftrt=1&ftrv=1&saprclo=&saprchi=&fsop=1&fsoo=1

paying $50US for a set of slaves that would last me till I can justify paying for a set of PW Multimaxs would be great. Naturally I dont expect them to be perfect, especially for that price, but if they worked most of the time, it'd be pretty useful.

Set up- Nikon D70, sb800, sb600.

Any help would be greately appreciated
-David
Click to expand...
if i'm not wrong.. there was an MO for such a thing in consumer corner by tunster.
and it's way cheaper than 465USD
 

dslang said:
been looking at getting a set of pocketwizards lately. then i realised i'd be paying 465US$ for a transmitter and 2 receivers for the PW Plus, and i really dont wanna have to spend that much money.

I wont be very far away from my flashes, but they have to work with objects in the way and in the outdoors, so they'd be behind biking dirtjumps and such.

do you guys know if any of these work well?
http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?sofocus=bs&sbrftog=1&from=R10&satitle=radio+slave&sacat=-1%26catref%3DC6&bs=Search&sargn=-1%26saslc%3D2&sadis=200&fpos=V6T1X1&ftrt=1&ftrv=1&saprclo=&saprchi=&fsop=1&fsoo=1

paying $50US for a set of slaves that would last me till I can justify paying for a set of PW Multimaxs would be great. Naturally I dont expect them to be perfect, especially for that price, but if they worked most of the time, it'd be pretty useful.

Set up- Nikon D70, sb800, sb600.

Any help would be greately appreciated
-David
Click to expand...
Can use CLS? Position the sensors (with the aid of some aluminium foil) in such a way that they can "see" the flash on the camera?
 

lsisaxon said:
Can use CLS? Position the sensors (with the aid of some aluminium foil) in such a way that they can "see" the flash on the camera?
Click to expand...

the one by tunster uses RF, better than the Nikon CLS cos there is no light trigger, it acts like a normal strobe, only diff is, Nikon CLS allow preflash metering, but the RF one doesn't.
 

Del_CtrlnoAlt said:
the one by tunster uses RF, better than the Nikon CLS cos there is no light trigger, it acts like a normal strobe, only diff is, Nikon CLS allow preflash metering, but the RF one doesn't.
Click to expand...
Yeah.. but that would mean spending more money isn't it?
 

lsisaxon said:
Yeah.. but that would mean spending more money isn't it?
Click to expand...
I believe that he intent to use radio trigger is to set both hotshoe flash remotely, and it is behind some objects, I'm not sure Nikon CLS can work this way.

This China made radio trigger I have also, but not sure about the working range in outdoor condition. It should be fine, just like car door remote control.
 

catchlights said:
I believe that he intent to use radio trigger is to set both hotshoe flash remotely, and it is behind some objects, I'm not sure Nikon CLS can work this way.

This China made radio trigger I have also, but not sure about the working range in outdoor condition. It should be fine, just like car door remote control.
Click to expand...
Yeah.. exactly I was thinking if for that short range CLS might work.
 

dslang said:
The built in Nikon wireless flash system has been working well so far, but it's just been quite limiting. I shoot in conditions where I have to put flashes behind objects (walls, etc)

Would you guys recommend this one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/Wireless-Remote...595872603QQcategoryZ30086QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Click to expand...
Hmmmm... behind walls.. that may be a problem. If it were some small objects like rocks might still be ok.. I haven't tried any radio triggers so I can't really comment..
 

i think he mentioned also dirtbike jumping and all? i guess having a radio trigger is better as the shutter can be released immediately instead of the lag from the pre-flashes.
 

lsisaxon said:
Can use CLS? Position the sensors (with the aid of some aluminium foil) in such a way that they can "see" the flash on the camera?
Click to expand...
In the open, in bright sunshine, with objects that can block the line of sight - for a line of sight trigger device - you gotta to be kidding. CLS I think will work in certain situations but it is not a cure all for every situations. Our friends using Minolata could tell us more since CLS is an adaptation of the system they used first. Furthermore on a D70, there is a flash trigger lag, you click, the commander flashes and a couple of microseconds latter the slaves trigger. More than enough to miss you the decisive moment. If it was a D2X the delay I am told is much less. So CLS in this case would be not a good thing as there is a strong chance it will fail to work.Go with the radio slaves - get 2 recievers one for each flash should it be both off camera.
 

in open bright sunlight CLS... think quite hard... lucky thing is minolta can only trigger minolta system thru coding. For Nikon (my limited knowledge) i always use on fren's system, a SU4 setup, which acts like studio strobe, any light will trigger the flash. which if, any reflection off any thing, will cause a flash.

there is limitation on the RF as well, for eg, if someone uses a mobile fone, or nearby there is some radio disruption, your flash will fire. and also, you can't use TTL or watever, it helps if you know your flashes well...
 

yanyewkay said:
i think he mentioned also dirtbike jumping and all? i guess having a radio trigger is better as the shutter can be released immediately instead of the lag from the pre-flashes.
Click to expand...
Yeah. You have a good point there. I missed that. :) CLS is indeed much slower.
 

Del_CtrlnoAlt said:
in open bright sunlight CLS... think quite hard... lucky thing is minolta can only trigger minolta system thru coding. For Nikon (my limited knowledge) i always use on fren's system, a SU4 setup, which acts like studio strobe, any light will trigger the flash. which if, any reflection off any thing, will cause a flash.

there is limitation on the RF as well, for eg, if someone uses a mobile fone, or nearby there is some radio disruption, your flash will fire. and also, you can't use TTL or watever, it helps if you know your flashes well...
Click to expand...
SU4 is not CLS - Nikon's CLS is similar to Minolta's code pulsing on flash. SU4 is a glorified optical slave trigger that is supposed to quench the flash in respose to to the main flash cut off add a ttl sort of control but iffy at best.RF interferrence is possible if its in the same frequency or the harmonic but rare I think even more so outdoors unless its in X Signal anttena area. It's cheap it work most of the time. A little trial and error and your home. I doubt if the flash is meant as main light - SB's outdoors are some what pathetic at best in bright daylight; with a dirt bike you want the SB to be as far away as possible which make the amount of light it throws weaker.
 

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