A quick test on the CA of the 14-42 pancake kit zoom. A high contrasty situation. F6.3, 14mm, ISO 200.
Top left corner cropped.
And one at 42mm, F6.3, ISO200
Top left corner cropped.
And one at 42mm, F6.3, ISO200
Olympus OM-D E-M10 Preview
- Thread starter spidey89
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Welcome, hope it helps. Actually not finished with the preview as we will get another unit back for further testing, it was a very rush and short test previously. There's a new feature "Live Composite" which requires time to test. Stay tuned 
Just gotten an EM10 back again from Olympus, today sunset was nice, missed most part of it. Had a go with "live composite function". All OOC jpeg
Basically it's a function that gives live preview of your composite shots, say 4sec shots x 60, and put into 1 single shot, so effective 240sec shots. One of the issues that plagued Olympus users had been long exposure shots can present hot pixels easily even with long exposure noise reduction, but having this function, it eliminate the need for the use of long exposure noise reduction function so far I've tried.
Here's a couple of shots.
ISO200, 4sec x 60 shots = 240sec effective.
Cropped shot corner.
& another at ISO100, 20sec x 9 = 180s
Cropped shot corner.
Basically it's a function that gives live preview of your composite shots, say 4sec shots x 60, and put into 1 single shot, so effective 240sec shots. One of the issues that plagued Olympus users had been long exposure shots can present hot pixels easily even with long exposure noise reduction, but having this function, it eliminate the need for the use of long exposure noise reduction function so far I've tried.
Here's a couple of shots.
ISO200, 4sec x 60 shots = 240sec effective.
Cropped shot corner.
& another at ISO100, 20sec x 9 = 180s
Cropped shot corner.
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Wonglp, the camera does the shooting for you? Or you click yourself.
Btw, is this feature on EM-5?
Btw, is this feature on EM-5?
Hi, here's the procedure how I set up.
Use M mode to establish the correct exposure (it has to be rather slow in the first place, like 1/30sec and slower). Say if the exposure is 1sec, go to composite and set it as 1sec.
Then go to M mode, then click the shutter speed till you see Live Composite, it will take a first shot based on the composite setting. Then it's ready for shooting. Once you press shutter it will commence the Live composite, you will see it progressively show 1sec X , where X is the number of composite shots made progressively, also the image will be updated. In the whole duration, shutter remains open, only till you press shutter again, then it stops and process for a few secs, final shot is shown. HAven't tried if Raw can be made, will try it tonight.
So to answer your question, you just need to determine the correct exposure, the camera does the shooting continuously for you. You dun have to press say 60 times (unlike multiple exposure) to achieve 60 composite, just the first and last shot.
You can go leave the camera to shoot for as long as you want, provided battery can last and also the exposure remains relatively unchanged during the whole course of shot. So far longest is 4mins test. Will test star trail when time permits
EM5 unfortunately doesn't, it's a latest feature only found on EM10.
Hope that helps. I should do a video to demo too.
Did a star trail test from home. F6.3, ISO400, 6sec of 800+ shots, Panasonic 7-14 was used to achieve the wide angle. almost 2 hours of live composite shot. Could have done longer but pass my bed time, hence trail was rather incomplete
The brightest trail was the moon. Cropped a little, else OOC jpeg. Can see a couple of very small hot pixels but nothing too serious, it's better than doing a couple of minutes of single shot with older Pen/OMD camera. Amazingly the camera wasn't too hot after the 2 hours, and you can really see the progress and decide when you want to stop. Really cool feature. Must admit, it's rather boring to shoot star trail haha. Thinking of doing it at Little Guilin sometime late next week, anybody keen? Do as a group less sian haha.
The brightest trail was the moon. Cropped a little, else OOC jpeg. Can see a couple of very small hot pixels but nothing too serious, it's better than doing a couple of minutes of single shot with older Pen/OMD camera. Amazingly the camera wasn't too hot after the 2 hours, and you can really see the progress and decide when you want to stop. Really cool feature. Must admit, it's rather boring to shoot star trail haha. Thinking of doing it at Little Guilin sometime late next week, anybody keen? Do as a group less sian haha.
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Do a thread for a meetup in the MFT forum? and the attraction will be an EM10 set for everyone who turns up to test
Do a thread for a meetup in the MFT forum? and the attraction will be an EM10 set for everyone who turns up to test
Haha, not sure about last part
In camera software these days are shaping how photographers use the camera:
- using a tilt screen and touchscreen, taking low angle shots which if using a DSLR would have required live view and possibly proning
- timelapse functions, no need for intervalometer
- wireless app, no need for wired/wireless remote. Remote shooting while on the street using smartphone, while it may be fun for some, for traditional street shooters, they may not find this so.
- wifi app to handphone, post process via Snapseed, vscocam etc and post to flickr/facebook etc
- Live composite feature is another function. Have to say, for one who does lots of long exposure and very little post processing, the live composite function is really easy to use. For some scenario (not all), it can replace post processing time (blending), ND filters, and at times the flipside is not really learning the process of learning long exposure photography (at least it feels this way shooting with this mode).
For one who doesn't do much post processing, live composite is certainly welcoming.
- using a tilt screen and touchscreen, taking low angle shots which if using a DSLR would have required live view and possibly proning
- timelapse functions, no need for intervalometer
- wireless app, no need for wired/wireless remote. Remote shooting while on the street using smartphone, while it may be fun for some, for traditional street shooters, they may not find this so.
- wifi app to handphone, post process via Snapseed, vscocam etc and post to flickr/facebook etc
- Live composite feature is another function. Have to say, for one who does lots of long exposure and very little post processing, the live composite function is really easy to use. For some scenario (not all), it can replace post processing time (blending), ND filters, and at times the flipside is not really learning the process of learning long exposure photography (at least it feels this way shooting with this mode).
For one who doesn't do much post processing, live composite is certainly welcoming.
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Some live composite shots to share. All done with EM10+Panasonic 7-14mm.
Workflow: Wifi to handphone, post processed by Snapseed, post to flickr.
A shot at Chong Nonsi bridge, light trails. With Panasonic 7-14. F6.3, 4 secs composite of maybe 20-30 shots to achieve 1min+ shot. You literally can see the trails adding on one after another, hence the "live" composite. One thing though is the exif only show the base exposure of 4sec.
Workflow: Wifi to handphone, post processed by Snapseed, post to flickr.
A shot at Chong Nonsi bridge, light trails. With Panasonic 7-14. F6.3, 4 secs composite of maybe 20-30 shots to achieve 1min+ shot. You literally can see the trails adding on one after another, hence the "live" composite. One thing though is the exif only show the base exposure of 4sec.
Some more live composite shots. Workflow: Wifi to handphone, post processed by Snapseed, post to flickr.
With Panasonic 7-14mm @ 7mm, F8, 3.2s, ISO200. Light trail, about 2 mins shot in total
With Panasonic 7-14mm @ 7mm, F7.1, 4s, ISO200. Light trail, about 2 mins shot in total
One issue I found using Live COmposite was small artefacts at brightest spot (see lamp posts), could be hot pixels, not sure. Fixable as it's still not as much/bad as say hot pixels when shooting single 2min shots consecutively.
With Panasonic 7-14mm @ 7mm, F8, 3.2s, ISO200. Light trail, about 2 mins shot in total
With Panasonic 7-14mm @ 7mm, F7.1, 4s, ISO200. Light trail, about 2 mins shot in total
One issue I found using Live COmposite was small artefacts at brightest spot (see lamp posts), could be hot pixels, not sure. Fixable as it's still not as much/bad as say hot pixels when shooting single 2min shots consecutively.
About the kit lens, M.ZUIKO 14-42mm F3.5-5.6 EZ, its actually a surprisingly excellent kit lens. It's good to see the kit lens comes with a manual focus ring (though slim) at least it's available. Although being small and electronic zoom does comes with some issues as well.
- Electronic zoom is slower than say a standard kit with mechanical zoom (even when set to "FAST")
- It's hard to control fine increments when set to "FAST", normal is ok, but of course you lose the speed
Here's some snaps with the kit lens, some street food OOC jpegs
29mm, F5, ISO200, 1/50s
25mm, F4.6, ISO400, 1/20s.
One with the picture story
- Electronic zoom is slower than say a standard kit with mechanical zoom (even when set to "FAST")
- It's hard to control fine increments when set to "FAST", normal is ok, but of course you lose the speed
Here's some snaps with the kit lens, some street food
OOC jpegs29mm, F5, ISO200, 1/50s
25mm, F4.6, ISO400, 1/20s.
One with the picture story
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In good light, the kit lens is a very good performer
F4, 14mm, ISO200, 1/320s, OOC jpeg
Cropped 100%
F4, 14mm, ISO200, 1/320s, OOC jpeg
Cropped 100%
Thanks for the review.
For your pics, is metering normally set to ESP, spot or centre weighted? And what auto ISO limit do you recommend to prevent detail degradation?
For your pics, is metering normally set to ESP, spot or centre weighted? And what auto ISO limit do you recommend to prevent detail degradation?
Thanks for the review.
For your pics, is metering normally set to ESP, spot or centre weighted? And what auto ISO limit do you recommend to prevent detail degradation?
Welcome!
ESP is what I would use normally. Spot or centre will depends on the situation. As for Auto ISO Limit, it really depends on individual tolerance of "acceptable detail degradation". Personally I can handle up to 6400, although if I can (situation permits), I will control my ISO to get the best IQ instead of auto, Olympus cameras tends to bump up the ISO to try ensure a fast enough shutter speed, a conservative method.
Hope that helps
I know to many people, don't expect too much on kit lens...
Hitting jackpot! my kit lens have the auto focusing issue and send back service centre for calibration. New Lens.. irritating!
Hitting jackpot! my kit lens have the auto focusing issue and send back service centre for calibration. New Lens.. irritating!
Not too lucky, hope you got it back already. There's a m43 subforum here feel free to join there to post images or look for information.
A few shots from recent trip in Beijing, all with pancake kit 14-42mm lens
14mm, F8.0, 4sec, ISO200, live composite function
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14mm, 5 shots panorama
14mm, F7.1, 8sec, ISO100, live composite
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14mm, F8.0, 4sec, ISO200, live composite function
14mm, 5 shots panorama
14mm, F7.1, 8sec, ISO100, live composite
And a few with the brilliantly sharp olympus 25/1.8
F2.5, 1/250s, ISO200
F2.5, 1/800s, ISO200
F2.0, 1/640s, ISO200
F1.8, 1/1600s, ISO200
F2.5, 1/250s, ISO200
F2.5, 1/800s, ISO200
F2.0, 1/640s, ISO200
F1.8, 1/1600s, ISO200
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