:thumbsup: :thumbsup:Astin said:The 50mm is sharp, its contrasty, its big aperture, its cheap, its light, I think every photographer should get 1
That's very true...
:think: , interesting...Astin said:
Nikon 50mm f1.8D Lens
- Thread starter digipat2003
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That's very true...
sam_always said:
Its faster for starters and that help alot esp if you do indoor shoots. Body is more solid compared to the f1.8. Price wise.....killer.
i have tried using a 50/1.8 and a 85/1.8 to take picture of a flower and maintaining same image size. the subj itself is sees no different but the background is different, the 50mm can capture more background that the 85 mm. the perspective is definitely different
A longer lense in the studio might work out better then a 50mm. I was working with a 60mm micro a few days ago. I realized that I was so near most of the time some of the objects look mildly distorted due to the prespective. I'll be looking for something between 90 - 120mm in the near future.
Anyway the 50mm only cost $180. But like shutterbug pointed out. Many people own it, but have very limited use for it.
Anyway the 50mm only cost $180. But like shutterbug pointed out. Many people own it, but have very limited use for it.
cmsoh said:
You use 35mm lens (35 x 1.5 = 52.5mm equivalence) you get wide angle distortion, but the view of 50mm. You use 50mm, you get normal perspective but 75mm equivalent view. So you have no way out! The physical way is to move the CCD 66% closer to the lens (but that's changing the whole camera system, and lens system, something the 4-thirds are trying to do).
That's why full frame DSLR (35mm) is so attractive for those who really need the perspective control and field of view. If you have not seen or studied actual 35mm film perspective and field of view, you'll probably not know the difference. These are all numbers and talk. At the end, you shoot the photo, and the audience will decide if the photo is good. Technically, 35mm, 16mm, APS, medium format, whatever, will all have it's own perspective/field of view. The final product will tell. How many people actually takes a photo using 50mm, then says that, "hmm... not the perspective I want" and change to a 75mm to reshoot? For most studio shots, the background is so unimportant, and for architecture, you will probably use wide angle anyway.
I have the 50 1.8 AF non-D, under normal circumstances it works great, however when using it for IR (with Hoya R72), there is ALOT of flaring, depending on the aperature, which leads me to believe it's somehow reflecting off the aperature blades , example....
But no such problems with my 105 micro !!! .
But no such problems with my 105 micro !!! .
eawtan said:I have the 50 1.8 AF non-D, under normal circumstances it works great, however when using it for IR (with Hoya R72), there is ALOT of flaring, depending on the aperature, which leads me to believe it's somehow reflecting off the aperature blades , example....
But no such problems with my 105 micro !!! .
I think it's prob due to the wide aperture and shooting without lens hood. In any case, most lens are not the sharpest at its smallest or widest aperture. Thus for f1.8 lens, you will probably get very sharp pics at f5.6-f11 range.just like for f2.8 lens, you will typically get the best results at around f8-11.
yowch said:
IF this the case, since the CCD is closer to lens compare to 35mm SLR. Does it mean that 35mm lens on DSLR should look like normal as 50mm lens at 35mm film SLR? :dunno: really confure. :sweat:
If u move yr head 6 inches towards yr monitor, does yr monitor become bigger?sam_always said:
(Pardon me for my joke, pls dont feel bad, have fun!)
sam_always said:
But which manufacturer placed the CCD nearer to the lens on a SLR? it will certainly get in the way of the mirror and shutter. Unless the system is designed from scratch and need not be back compatible with exisitng lenses. The 4 thirds is an attempt, I'll also say that Canon's EF-s is an attenpt, although the lenses are still the same as 35mm lenses.
On compact digital cameras, the CCDs are REALLY tiny small, and the lens are REALLY tiny small, and there is no shutter or mirror in between, hence they can achieve true 50mm equivalent perspective (normal) by placing the CCD closer to the lens, etc. It's just simply similar triangles.
I am no expert, I should no go any deeper, or I may start misleading...
anyone got pics taken with 50mm lens and 18-70mm dx lens, both shots at 50mm focal length ? maybe we can do a comparison and finds out whether the difference is really great
Checkout : http://www.pbase.com/kovacj/1870
digipat2003 said:anyone got pics taken with 50mm lens and 18-70mm dx lens, both shots at 50mm focal length ? maybe we can do a comparison and finds out whether the difference is really great
Hi
I just bought a 50mm f/1.8D. However, my camera (F65) keeps showing the error message (FEE). Manual says that if the FEE is blinking, it means I must set to the min aperture. I did try and yes, id went away. However, I cannot move from that aperture setting, as the FEE sign will re-appear, and I cannot tkae any pics. So, my problem is how can I manually adjust the aperture without the FEE sign appearing?
Thanks all in advance for advice.
I just bought a 50mm f/1.8D. However, my camera (F65) keeps showing the error message (FEE). Manual says that if the FEE is blinking, it means I must set to the min aperture. I did try and yes, id went away. However, I cannot move from that aperture setting, as the FEE sign will re-appear, and I cannot tkae any pics. So, my problem is how can I manually adjust the aperture without the FEE sign appearing?
Thanks all in advance for advice.
I am not too familiar with F65, but in most new generation Nikons, you set the aperture ring to the min aperture and lock there, then u use the command dial on the right top of the camera to change the aperture, u dont need to turn the aperture ring to change the aperture.manalishi said:
eawtan said:
hi eawtan, tks for the links, from my eyes me cant find much difference, sometime even find when shoot at 70mm the quality is better than 50mm at f4.5. somehow the pics at 50mm f1.8 seem abit soft :think:
Astin said:
You are right. only use the aperture ring when you are using it on manual slr like FM2
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