need help on close up filter.


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sjanson

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Nov 3, 2009
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yishun singapore
Hi all,just bought a hoya +4 close up filter.try it on my 500D kit lens18-55mm and sigma 70-300mm and nissin 622i flash but the focusing is very blur when i try to focus and keep saying busy on the screen and the exposure is -2 and cannot be adjust.pls help wif this.thanks
:dunno:
 

Have you tried changing the focusing distance? e.g moving forward towards the object?
 

hi -2 exposure should be corrected on your camera itself, has nothing to do with your +4 diopter, as diopters have no light-reducing quality (unlike, eg. cpl).

for diopters, and macro photog in general, its harder to focus the bigger the image, as the DOF will get smaller and smaller. so for max magnification with your setup, you set your sigma to 300mm, put manual focus for the lens and move it to the minimum (opposite side from infinity), and then move closer and further from the object to bring it into focus. warning: the DOF will be PAPER THIN. so be careful/use tripod.

try to use high apeture like f22. turn your flash to TTL and pull out the bounce card to get max light on the subject close to you. this will only work on higher focal length. i used my di622 on a 50mm with +4 and the bottom half of the frame was not illuminated, but at 200mm +4, it was fine.

hope this helps :)
 

hi -2 exposure should be corrected on your camera itself, has nothing to do with your +4 diopter, as diopters have no light-reducing quality (unlike, eg. cpl).

for diopters, and macro photog in general, its harder to focus the bigger the image, as the DOF will get smaller and smaller. so for max magnification with your setup, you set your sigma to 300mm, put manual focus for the lens and move it to the minimum (opposite side from infinity), and then move closer and further from the object to bring it into focus. warning: the DOF will be PAPER THIN. so be careful/use tripod.

try to use high apeture like f22. turn your flash to TTL and pull out the bounce card to get max light on the subject close to you. this will only work on higher focal length. i used my di622 on a 50mm with +4 and the bottom half of the frame was not illuminated, but at 200mm +4, it was fine.

hope this helps :)
as far as i can see,everything is still blur.at 200mm or 300mm,walk front and back still the same???:bsmilie:
 

you have to get very close, like the working distance between my 200 and the subject is ard 5-15cm, while the focus plane may be as thin as .0Xcm

thats the trouble with filters... i think true macro lenses are easier to use, but for the price, who can complain? if its not working out, try using a lower focal length lens first (eg 50mm) to get the feel for using the filter/focusing at close distance. diopters also work best with prime lenses as they will give the best IQ.
 

you have to get very close, like the working distance between my 200 and the subject is ard 5-15cm, while the focus plane may be as thin as .0Xcm

thats the trouble with filters... i think true macro lenses are easier to use, but for the price, who can complain? if its not working out, try using a lower focal length lens first (eg 50mm) to get the feel for using the filter/focusing at close distance. diopters also work best with prime lenses as they will give the best IQ.

thanks....:cry:
 

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