Making the A80 work....professionally!!
- Thread starter Bleahhh
- Start date
- Status
Erm I think 'bokeh' actually refers to how the out of focus highlights in a the blurred background is render, ie whether the out of focus highlights are harsh or smooth. To get blurred background, just focus relatively close and try to use a large aperture (f2.8 or something like that). The bokeh you get depends on the lens, e.g how the aperture blades are shaped etc, but you will get a blurred background regardless of the bokeh.
For macro shots, you generally do NOT want a large aperture unless you have a specific shot in mind, as someone have already mentioned, the depth of field is very thin at macro distances, and you generally need a small aperture to ensure maximum sharpness in your subject.
Have fun!
For macro shots, you generally do NOT want a large aperture unless you have a specific shot in mind, as someone have already mentioned, the depth of field is very thin at macro distances, and you generally need a small aperture to ensure maximum sharpness in your subject.
Have fun!
tweakmax2 said:
hmmm, ask yourself if do you really need the extra zoom?
Basically the S1 IS is a 3.2 mp digicam, and the A80 is a 4.0 mp. So if you are printing bigger prints, the S1 IS isn't that perfect.
To me, the image stabiliser is pretty useless at times, unless u have really shakey hands.
I haven't owned any IS/VR yet.. but I imagine that it's useful even if you don't have shakey hands... As you drop your shutter speed down you are bound to move (Unless u don't breathe, ur heart dun pump & your arms/joints are made of steel), even if you don't see it on the LCD, but you'll notice when u blow it up. I've shot 1/8s fairly sharp, but that's 1 out of x shots. The IS/VR will help you reduce x and the possibility of getting blurred shots.
Correct me if I'm mistaken.
Correct me if I'm mistaken.
willyfoo said:
Yup, it does reduce the amount of tries for the perfect shot, but still it doesn't eliminate the use of the tripod during night shots. So far, I think this technology has not accomodate a wide threshold range for people with different shakey hands or night shots. The breathing technique (similiar to firing a M16) and standing posture still play very important roles.
I've tried the Z10 during night shots w/o tripod. It's pretty useless even with the IS on. I was told by the Z10 owner that the IS function depletes the battery faster.
XTing said:
Hi I'm really new at this too and am trying very hard to understand all the technical details by reading online. Read that zoom lens and telephoto are different.So is this close up filter different from the abovementioned? =)
usherer said:
Macro is the state of achieving 1:1 image scale or better magnification.
Close up is anything lesser than 1:2.
hwchoy said:
Hmmm, it's in one of my photography techniques book when I was using a SLR.
I did a search in DPReview and here it is:
http://www.dpreview.com/learn/?/Glossary/Optical/Macro_01.htm
Macro means the optical ability to produce a 1:1 or higher magnification of an object on the film negative, that is get very close (not always physically) to a very small object (a bit like a microscope does, but obviously not as much). The second type of lens is a close-up lens, normally anything less than 1:2 is seen as close-up (rather than Macro).
dont know if it's one time too many knocks to my cam...
noticed my pix look very dark on the pc now,compared to the LCD screen.
we can't adjust brightness of the A80 screen right?
well, then how to gauge when my pic is coming out looking like the one on my screen...
noticed my pix look very dark on the pc now,compared to the LCD screen.
we can't adjust brightness of the A80 screen right?
well, then how to gauge when my pic is coming out looking like the one on my screen...
usherer said:
As an A80 user, I must agree that the picture you shoot and see on LCD is much Vivid ( instead of bright). There is nothing you can set on the camera's LCD.
So the best way to test which one is much closer to ur actual picture is to develope serveral pictures with diffeent scene and color mixture. Request the photo shop not to adjust any setting and develope as it is. Then take the picture and compare to the coloring and brightness of ur monitor and LCD. Then you will know which one is much closer to ur real image captured.
Well, there is another simple explanation for ur prob. That is ur monitor setting is too dim.. try to calibrate it abit. Try to check for proper exposure on your camera's historgram ( this pretty accurate) after taking the shot.
chunger said:
yup, will be developing the pics.
anyway , went to shoot a few pix today with a vengeance. This time, i shot them with the image appearing TOO bright on the LCD.so when i got home, it was just nice on the PC. heh heh.. but of course,this aint a foolproof plan coz the pix may really be overexposed.but it worked for 90% of em!
- Status
Similar threads
