Lens forecast


Status
Not open for further replies.
Go out there, start taking photos with what you have and stop thinking about new stuff.

Well i was doing that till my GF also banned me by hiding my dry box with my camera inside :(

Apprently always ended up in those situation where 250 is not long enough for peek shots and if i were to buy a 100-400 or 150-500 then dun need to peek shot already everyone would be staring at you in my kind of function like dinners and stuff :(

Cheers! :)
 

and let me know if you still think this is a walkabout lens when you see one.....

Well from what i read its about 19cm.... Don't know about the weight though.......but if focusing is really slow then no point getting it lah... by the time focus, subject also dunno go where already.....

Cheers!
 

Hi All,

Further in my study on the lens that i prepare to purchase, i would need some advise for the pros out there.

Tamron 17-50mm do not come with image stabilizers
Sigma 120-300mm do not come with them as well.

I seem to notice that very seldom that a F2.8 lens comes with IS and can i know why is that?

I understand that they produce faster shutter speed but for indoors, would the faster shutter speed be fast enough to reduce hand shake?

Thanks alot
 

Hi All,

Further in my study on the lens that i prepare to purchase, i would need some advise for the pros out there.

Tamron 17-50mm do not come with image stabilizers
Sigma 120-300mm do not come with them as well.

I seem to notice that very seldom that a F2.8 lens comes with IS and can i know why is that?

I understand that they produce faster shutter speed but for indoors, would the faster shutter speed be fast enough to reduce hand shake?

Thanks alot

i might be wrong but most of the time, the idea is to get a high shutter speed when using the lens to freeze the action, not to stop handshake blur. so it is not a priority. furthermore, 3rd party lenses are not strong in image stabilising.
 

Hi All,

Further in my study on the lens that i prepare to purchase, i would need some advise for the pros out there.

Tamron 17-50mm do not come with image stabilizers
Sigma 120-300mm do not come with them as well.

I seem to notice that very seldom that a F2.8 lens comes with IS and can i know why is that?

I understand that they produce faster shutter speed but for indoors, would the faster shutter speed be fast enough to reduce hand shake?

Thanks alot

Hi there. You already have quite a good spread of standard lenses for your 500D. If you can, try to stick with the Canon ones if you really want to see clear and marked improvements in image quality etc. Price is of course a factor that you have to weigh because you pay for what you get. My mistake in the past is to think that I buy the cheaper ones I can get by with, and then later regret to sell off at a loss.

As for IS, it depends on your ability to hold you camera. Instead of IS, which actually adds further glass elements and electronics into the lens, I control the shutter speed, ISO etc. Trust me, as I've seen IS fail on a 18 months Canon 70-200mm2.8L IS before, it is really NOT a die-die-must-have feature for lenses.
 

Do you really need all those lenses,if seem all u want is f2.8. Let me ask you a question "What is High key" or 'What is Low key" in photography term?
 

Hi there. You already have quite a good spread of standard lenses for your 500D. If you can, try to stick with the Canon ones if you really want to see clear and marked improvements in image quality etc. Price is of course a factor that you have to weigh because you pay for what you get. My mistake in the past is to think that I buy the cheaper ones I can get by with, and then later regret to sell off at a loss.

As for IS, it depends on your ability to hold you camera. Instead of IS, which actually adds further glass elements and electronics into the lens, I control the shutter speed, ISO etc. Trust me, as I've seen IS fail on a 18 months Canon 70-200mm2.8L IS before, it is really NOT a die-die-must-have feature for lenses.


Thats a good advise. Will my ability to hold a camera still is not that good so.... what happen is that my have alot of indoor events which i do not want to activate flashes so at 5.6, its really shaky even with IS so.... i tried with my 50mm 1.8 and set it at 2.8 and its pretty ok in the same environment so that actually triggers my to look into 2.8 lenses.

Cheers!
 

Do you really need all those lenses,if seem all u want is f2.8. Let me ask you a question "What is High key" or 'What is Low key" in photography term?

I know those terms for my reservist but only a little knowledge in photography !

Is it something I need to master before purchasing 2.8 lens?

Cheers
 

Thats a good advise. Will my ability to hold a camera still is not that good so.... what happen is that my have alot of indoor events which i do not want to activate flashes so at 5.6, its really shaky even with IS so.... i tried with my 50mm 1.8 and set it at 2.8 and its pretty ok in the same environment so that actually triggers my to look into 2.8 lenses.

Cheers!

Perhaps you should work out what is the minimum shutter speed that you can hold your camera without flash on. Then work out the best in terms of ISO settings and aperture. For indoors unfortunately you have to get by with ISO 400 or 800 at least Some noise reduction software will help to remove noise. For lenses, it is indeed f/4 or lower.
 

Perhaps you should work out what is the minimum shutter speed that you can hold your camera without flash on. Then work out the best in terms of ISO settings and aperture. For indoors unfortunately you have to get by with ISO 400 or 800 at least Some noise reduction software will help to remove noise. For lenses, it is indeed f/4 or lower.

Bro, have tested that portion already! Best hand hold is at 1/10 and probably at 3.5 iso about 400-800 still ok! But sometime 1/10 still not enough and iso need to be about 1600 :(

what software would u recommend for noise reduction??
 

Hi snappers,

have done some research on lens that I'm going to get but would need some advise or correction if I'm wrong!

Sigma 120-300mm 2.8..... Walkabout lens with good range (19cm) and on top of that, this unit should still have allowance for 1.4x or 2.0x convertor?

Sigma 50-150 2.8...... Just because of the 2.8 and range is just nice for the next lens suggestion!

Tamron 17-50 2.8

tokina 11-16 2.8...... Pretty much good reviews all over!!

As I'm a general snapper, not into birds or macro yet! Streets and events or occation for now, please feel free to drop in ur personal suggestion!

Thanks alot

Are you seriously sure you want this as a walkabout lens???

Sigma 120-300mm 2.8
sigma-120-300-2.jpg
 

Bro, have tested that portion already! Best hand hold is at 1/10 and probably at 3.5 iso about 400-800 still ok! But sometime 1/10 still not enough and iso need to be about 1600 :(

what software would u recommend for noise reduction??

minimum shutter speed required will change with different focal lengths. usually it is advisable to keep shutter speed = 1/focal length (after crop). So if you are using a 50mm lens, your minimum recommended shutter speed will be 1/(50x1.6) = 1/80s. If you are using IS, it depends on how many stops your particular IS gives you. If your IS give you a 2 stop advantage your minimum recommended shutter speed will be 1/20s.

Finding out your minimum shutter speed without considering the focal length of the lens it was measured with is pointless, in my view.

For software, any good PP software now comes with NR. PS, LR all have it.
 

Last edited:
Bro, have tested that portion already! Best hand hold is at 1/10 and probably at 3.5 iso about 400-800 still ok! But sometime 1/10 still not enough and iso need to be about 1600 :(

what software would u recommend for noise reduction??

There's no way anyone could hold steady at 1/10 shutter speed. Even with IS, there's still gonna be shake. So I guess you concluded that you'd need to get f/2.8. Actually, I'd also recommend EF85mm or EF135mm. These are prime lenses and will give you pretty good quality and wide aperture; of course you have to "zoom with your feet".

Noise reduction software - many out there. Can try these Photoshop plug-ins like Noise Ninja or Noiseware professional. They are a must to any digital photographer.
 

Are you seriously sure you want this as a walkabout lens???

Sigma 120-300mm 2.8
sigma-120-300-2.jpg

Haha i take that as an advise...... Anyway no OS so no chance lah... Hahahaha

Cheers!
 

minimum shutter speed required will change with different focal lengths. usually it is advisable to keep shutter speed = 1/focal length (after crop). So if you are using a 50mm lens, your minimum recommended shutter speed will be 1/(50x1.6) = 1/80s. If you are using IS, it depends on how many stops your particular IS gives you. If your IS give you a 2 stop advantage your minimum recommended shutter speed will be 1/20s.

Finding out your minimum shutter speed without considering the focal length of the lens it was measured with is pointless, in my view.QUOTE]

Bro, I found out about this as well but because of this point, then i realise that most of the 2.8 lens do not have the IS which is why im so curious on how come it doesn't come with it..... Haizzz..

Cheers!
 

Status
Not open for further replies.