For me, I ressemble the aperture ring, aperturte lever and mount first. There's a short screw that will hold them together.
Then you can reassemble all these parts as one group
How I fixed a dropped AFS ED 28-70 F2.8
- Thread starter fatigue
- Start date
For me, I ressemble the aperture ring, aperturte lever and mount first. There's a short screw that will hold them together.
Then you can reassemble all these parts as one group
Hi, Fatigue, Due to I'm still new here that I'm not allow to post link to see the photo about the lens.
I think I have to adjust the aperture lever little be to the right and give away 1mm room will be do the trick.
I think I have to adjust the aperture lever little be to the right and give away 1mm room will be do the trick.
Hi, Fatigue
Aperture lever fixed, now is the original problem; sometime AF not worked and manual move to "Macro" AF works again but with squeeze sound. Do you think is the roller problem that u mentioned on other thread? Thanks.
Aperture lever fixed, now is the original problem; sometime AF not worked and manual move to "Macro" AF works again but with squeeze sound. Do you think is the roller problem that u mentioned on other thread? Thanks.
Hi Fatigue,Try to post some photos of your procedure so we can check if everything is correct.
Focus and squeeze problem fixed, thanks again.
Hi Fatigue,
My 28-70 f2.8 is having focus problems. I wasn't using my lens for about 24 months. And after that period of time I found problem with focus. Lens has never been dropped or etc. I have made some research I found similar problem with nikkor 24-70mm and I was hoping that I will be able to follow instruction and will be able to fix the same way.
Here is the link I've found on net:
www(dot)youtube(dot)com/watch?v=WkTBmz5xTGs
Unfortunately after step 3 I have found that my lens are different. Please check my photos:
imageshack(dot)com/a/img844/5171/xpqb.jpg
imageshack(dot)com/a/img32/8871/78ha.jpg
I went through your post how to fix a dropped AFS ED 28-70mm. It is a great source of information. It looks for me as I have no other option as get to my lens from other side. I guess with your experience you have similar issues with those lenses. Would you be able to let me know what should be fixed in my case?
Or is any other thread I could follow to have my problem fixed?
Thanks for any help,
citygatetwo
PS. sorry I cannot post links as I am new on this forum.
My 28-70 f2.8 is having focus problems. I wasn't using my lens for about 24 months. And after that period of time I found problem with focus. Lens has never been dropped or etc. I have made some research I found similar problem with nikkor 24-70mm and I was hoping that I will be able to follow instruction and will be able to fix the same way.
Here is the link I've found on net:
www(dot)youtube(dot)com/watch?v=WkTBmz5xTGs
Unfortunately after step 3 I have found that my lens are different
. Please check my photos:imageshack(dot)com/a/img844/5171/xpqb.jpg
imageshack(dot)com/a/img32/8871/78ha.jpg
I went through your post how to fix a dropped AFS ED 28-70mm. It is a great source of information. It looks for me as I have no other option as get to my lens from other side.
I guess with your experience you have similar issues with those lenses. Would you be able to let me know what should be fixed in my case?Or is any other thread I could follow to have my problem fixed?
Thanks for any help,
citygatetwo
PS. sorry I cannot post links as I am new on this forum.
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Hi Fatigue,
My 28-70 f2.8 is having focus problems. I wasn't using my lens for about 24 months. And after that period of time I found problem with focus. Lens has never been dropped or etc. I have made some research I found similar problem with nikkor 24-70mm and I was hoping that I will be able to follow instruction and will be able to fix the same way.
Here is the link I've found on net:
www(dot)youtube(dot)com/watch?v=WkTBmz5xTGs
Unfortunately after step 3 I have found that my lens are different
imageshack(dot)com/a/img844/5171/xpqb.jpg
imageshack(dot)com/a/img32/8871/78ha.jpg
I went through your post how to fix a dropped AFS ED 28-70mm. It is a great source of information. It looks for me as I have no other option as get to my lens from other side.
Or is any other thread I could follow to have my problem fixed?
Thanks for any help,
citygatetwo
PS. sorry I cannot post links as I am new on this forum.
Your focus problem could be due to flex cable. Please check post #53
Hello to everybody here and thank you for sharing all this valuable knowledge...
Well, you can imagine why I am here, writing to you all...I have a Nikon 28-70 2.8 with focus problem..What a surpsise!! One day you wake up , you grab your your bag to go out for a shooting and you realise your 'beast' is not so beast anymore. So after the initial shock, I did a bit of research on the net, only to find that it is a common problem with these lenses... From the posts I read I found out that the cost for the repair can be anything from 300 to 500€, so I decided to send it to Nikon as I thought that even if I had to pay 500€ it will still worth it as this is a very good lens. So the lens was send to Nikon Germany and here is the quote they sent me:
AFS28-70/2.8D IF ED (Black)
Chargeable RepairService flat rate€ 227.50
Entfernungseinstellung reparieren und justieren
Elektroniksystem reparieren,justieren,erneuern :
Spare parts € 371.031
B999-920R - SWM UNIT
1B999-962 - MAIN FPC UNIT
1B060-683-1 - ZOOM FPC UNIT RoHS
1B060-684-1 - FOCUS BASE PLATE UNIT RoHS
1K118-682 - SHIELD PLATE
1K118-683 - SHIELD PLATE
KL06 - Kleinteile
1K110-484 - RUBBER RING
1K110-485 - RUBBER
Shipment/Packaging € 45.00
Sum Estimate-Amount € 643.53
Value added tax 19 % € 122.27
Total amount € 765.80
Ridiculous, no?
So what are the options...
Pay this money and get back a new-old lens
Throw it away and get a new 24-70
Or you know...itching hands..
So I prepared my self and went through the process that 'master fatigue' describes. I decided to go through the process because I had the feeling that not all those things inside the lens needed replacement. In fact, the original problem I had with the lens was that it would not focus to distances close to infinity. All other distances no problem. Also , when turning the focus ring I could feel near the problematic area(close to infinity) a little 'tick noise' and a bit of resistance. Then I thought, this could be a loose flex board as 'master. suggests. And indeed that was the problem. I glued back the board in place, put everyting back together, or so I thought, and try the lens once again. The resistance is gone, no ticking noises and the lens now goes through the whole distance range but it fails to focus correctly. The process of focusing is far from smmoth though. It's better to show than to describe so here is alink to a movie I made:
www(dot)youtube(dot)com/watch?v=nmHy05TBiyQ
I opened the lens once again and closed it just to make sure I haven't done anything wrong but with no success. The same problem persists...
The only thing that I changed in the process is that I found easier to desolder the wires from the M/A-A switch rather than from the main board. Not that I think that this may have caused the new problem, but...what do I know?
Thanks again for everything and any further help or ideas would be greatly appreciated..
Michael
Well, you can imagine why I am here, writing to you all...I have a Nikon 28-70 2.8 with focus problem..What a surpsise!! One day you wake up , you grab your your bag to go out for a shooting and you realise your 'beast' is not so beast anymore. So after the initial shock, I did a bit of research on the net, only to find that it is a common problem with these lenses... From the posts I read I found out that the cost for the repair can be anything from 300 to 500€, so I decided to send it to Nikon as I thought that even if I had to pay 500€ it will still worth it as this is a very good lens. So the lens was send to Nikon Germany and here is the quote they sent me:
AFS28-70/2.8D IF ED (Black)
Chargeable RepairService flat rate€ 227.50
Entfernungseinstellung reparieren und justieren
Elektroniksystem reparieren,justieren,erneuern :
Spare parts € 371.031
B999-920R - SWM UNIT
1B999-962 - MAIN FPC UNIT
1B060-683-1 - ZOOM FPC UNIT RoHS
1B060-684-1 - FOCUS BASE PLATE UNIT RoHS
1K118-682 - SHIELD PLATE
1K118-683 - SHIELD PLATE
KL06 - Kleinteile
1K110-484 - RUBBER RING
1K110-485 - RUBBER
Shipment/Packaging € 45.00
Sum Estimate-Amount € 643.53
Value added tax 19 % € 122.27
Total amount € 765.80
Ridiculous, no?
So what are the options...
Pay this money and get back a new-old lens
Throw it away and get a new 24-70
Or you know...itching hands..
So I prepared my self and went through the process that 'master fatigue' describes. I decided to go through the process because I had the feeling that not all those things inside the lens needed replacement. In fact, the original problem I had with the lens was that it would not focus to distances close to infinity. All other distances no problem. Also , when turning the focus ring I could feel near the problematic area(close to infinity) a little 'tick noise' and a bit of resistance. Then I thought, this could be a loose flex board as 'master. suggests. And indeed that was the problem. I glued back the board in place, put everyting back together, or so I thought, and try the lens once again. The resistance is gone, no ticking noises and the lens now goes through the whole distance range but it fails to focus correctly. The process of focusing is far from smmoth though. It's better to show than to describe so here is alink to a movie I made:
www(dot)youtube(dot)com/watch?v=nmHy05TBiyQ
I opened the lens once again and closed it just to make sure I haven't done anything wrong but with no success. The same problem persists...
The only thing that I changed in the process is that I found easier to desolder the wires from the M/A-A switch rather than from the main board. Not that I think that this may have caused the new problem, but...what do I know?
Thanks again for everything and any further help or ideas would be greatly appreciated..
Michael
I suspect the problem now with your lens is a faulty GMR. This component works as a sensor.
It provides the microprocessor (uP)with feedback pulses that corresponds to the small movement of the SWM motor.
What's happening now is that uP could not sense the movement of the SWM so the uP is blindly driving the motor.
A simple analogy: It's just like talking to a guy listening loud music on a headphone
He couldn't hear his own voice so he tends to shout.
I have seen some sellers online. Just search for "Nikon 28-70mm GMR"
Just choose for a reputable source.
The GMR is very sensitive component. It should be handled properly.
Don't touch the sensing part and don't put a magnetic material close to it
Before buying a replacement GMR, check if the flexible cable was inserted to the connector properly and connector has been locked. You can also try to reinsert the flexible cable
GMR location
GMR location
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Good morning Fatigue from Greece,
I spent last day examining the lens and the manual very carefully and I found that indeed the connector was not properly inserted, so now the lens is working PERFECTLY!!!
I am not sure what gives greater joy...the 760€ I did not pay to Nikon or the satisfaction of fixing this "almost" on my own...
Fatigue if you ever come to Greece I buy you dinner, and drinks and anything you ask!
And a piece of advice to fellows that have the same problem but are discouraged by thinking that it is extremely complicated to fix it by themeselves. IT IS NOT! at least not always.. With all this information available, at least you have to try...
Thanks Fatigue once again...
I spent last day examining the lens and the manual very carefully and I found that indeed the connector was not properly inserted, so now the lens is working PERFECTLY!!!
I am not sure what gives greater joy...the 760€ I did not pay to Nikon or the satisfaction of fixing this "almost" on my own...
Fatigue if you ever come to Greece I buy you dinner, and drinks and anything you ask!
And a piece of advice to fellows that have the same problem but are discouraged by thinking that it is extremely complicated to fix it by themeselves. IT IS NOT! at least not always.. With all this information available, at least you have to try...
Thanks Fatigue once again...
Congratulations Mike! I guess it's fixing on your own gives greater joy.
I hope I could visit Greece someday. If you have a facebook account, hope you will "like" my page: Hilos Camera Repair
Hi once again Fatigue,
sorry to bother you again but it seems that I have another problem with the lens. The aperture seems to have stuck at 2.8. When the lens is mounted on the camera, while the aperture numbers on the LCD change when I turn the dial, the lens remains wide open. If I expose for 2.8 the iimage is exposed properly but any other aperture setting delivers overexposed images. When I remove the lens from the camera and look through it, turning the aperture ring will not close the aperture more than 2 stops.
Maybe i did something wron in the reassebling of the lens?
Thanks
Michael
sorry to bother you again but it seems that I have another problem with the lens. The aperture seems to have stuck at 2.8. When the lens is mounted on the camera, while the aperture numbers on the LCD change when I turn the dial, the lens remains wide open. If I expose for 2.8 the iimage is exposed properly but any other aperture setting delivers overexposed images. When I remove the lens from the camera and look through it, turning the aperture ring will not close the aperture more than 2 stops.
Maybe i did something wron in the reassebling of the lens?
Thanks
Michael
I believe there's some mistake on the reassembly of the mount.
The procedure is to "slide" the aperture lever in between the gap.
Initially, repairdummy had the same problem before but he managed to fix it by himself
If you can take some photos of the lens without the mount, I can guide you to the correct procedure
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Someone had the same problem and asked for help.
He sent me this photo so I added the instruction on how to "slide" the aperture lever
He sent me this photo so I added the instruction on how to "slide" the aperture lever
Good morning from Greece, very helpful the diagram above..I now see where the lever should be inserted...the only problem is that the two tiny pieces do not open wide enough for the lever to go in...I also used a sharpened chopstick(great tool) but with no success...
Hi fatigue,
Thanks for all your information, you share with people like me. I am about to taking things apart.Just wondering in my case should I proceed with your post #3 and #4? I unterstood I need to get into flex cable to have them attached again. So in this case how deep I need to go?
Thank you again for your help,
citygatetwo
After step #11 ( remove rear casing) , you can work your way to the flex cable.
Good day fatigue,
Thank you for your reply. I have followed your instruction to step #11. And now I am there and I will ask you for more assistance,if I can.
Can you kindly guide me through to loose flex circuit board? From what I see now, I took some pictures.
Thank you kindly for your assistance,
citygatetwo
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