FZ5 and flash


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sinlg

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Jun 21, 2004
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#1
anyone know what tricks the FZ5 is capable of?

eg. xxx curtain flash?

can we tell the camera to open shutter for x secs, and then flash just before shutter close?

anyone know how?
 

unseen

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Dec 14, 2004
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#2
set to manual, open shutter for x sec, open flash.
it'll flash and then hold shutter open for x sec.

me to control flashing, i use my reliable emoblitz, and manually trigger the flash after using manual mode to open the shutter for long.
 

sinlg

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#3
unseen said:
set to manual, open shutter for x sec, open flash.
it'll flash and then hold shutter open for x sec.

me to control flashing, i use my reliable emoblitz, and manually trigger the flash after using manual mode to open the shutter for long.
ok thanks. So there is no way to do flash after shutter open ? the flash is always at the beginning?

IF you use manual flash.. thats a good idea. FZ5 can only open shutter for 8 secs. do you come across incidents that requires longer time?
 

unseen

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#4
ermz.. no i have not. I don't do astro photography, neither do i take photos in pulau tekong with no lights, so i've not come across the need for above 8S. If i open up 2.8 and 8S it's more than enough to take city lights, blown out in several cases. I think u only need more than 8S if you plan to have aperture smaller than F8, just a guess, don't quote me there.

hmmm of course i've tried, open f2.8 for 8 seconds in close to complete darkness. i get.. black photo still. heh end up using bounce card with yellow backing to get "warm" light.
 

sinlg

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#5
yah.. i guess the applications for > than 8secs is not very common.

Canon cams can do time lapse photos and string them to an avi file.

I thot F8 or something would be sharper than using F2.8? (sotong here)
 

unseen

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#6
ermz. u get more bokeh with 2.8..
means say using 2.8, if u focus at 5cm away, 1mm off the focal point would be out of focus.
if u focus at 10 cm away, there's greater "tolerance".
if u shoot at something 30m away, it's as good as infinity, so no big diff on sharpness if u use 2.8 or 8.0 for our fixed lens cam.
only thing is the amt of light entering the camera -
F8.0 less light, so end up whole picture darker, the lighted parts brighter.
F2.8 more light, whole photo brighter with a bit more details sometimes..
it really depends on the mood of the photo that you wan to take.
next time try try lar.. i also go on PLUG then i learn how diff aperture affects my photos.

hmmmmm heh heh what happened to PLUG?
 

jyhk_Junk

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Jul 4, 2005
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#7
unseen said:
ermz. u get more bokeh with 2.8..
means say using 2.8, if u focus at 5cm away, 1mm off the focal point would be out of focus.
if u focus at 10 cm away, there's greater "tolerance".
if u shoot at something 30m away, it's as good as infinity, so no big diff on sharpness if u use 2.8 or 8.0 for our fixed lens cam.
only thing is the amt of light entering the camera -
F8.0 less light, so end up whole picture darker, the lighted parts brighter.
F2.8 more light, whole photo brighter with a bit more details sometimes..
it really depends on the mood of the photo that you wan to take.
next time try try lar.. i also go on PLUG then i learn how diff aperture affects my photos.

hmmmmm heh heh what happened to PLUG?
Hi Unseen .. thanks for sharing the information ... is a very useful information .... thanks again ..
 

sinlg

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Jun 21, 2004
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#8
I try using maximum zoom, always have problems focusing leh.. especially things closer.. say 1 or 2 m away
 

unseen

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#9
You're welcomed jyhk_Junk. just something I picked up the hard way, might as well share with everyone. :)
Anyway least i mislead, I was only referring to night shots/long exposure shots. you can't see that much details to make F2.8 and F8.0 any big diff.
In the day, we can capture further/greater distance/greater details, I always prefer to use the minimum aperture, F8.0 for faraway distances. ah also coz usually in the sun, use too big aperture not good also, and also no point unless i take people or close object..

Just in case why you think i always talk abt aperture, heh heh it's coz i shoot almost only in aperture mode if not using flash.

:) that's why should use spot focus.. the one where u focus on the small square in the very center..
use it to focus (along an edge), then shift your camera to recompose. see if it helps.
 

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