developing tri-x 400 @ iso 320

[dtkky]

Hello all,
I recently shot some rolls of Tri-X 400 medium format at iso 320. I intend to develop them myself so I need advice as to which developer to use and what timing etc. I'm a newbie at this so any sharing of their experience would be much appreciated.

Regards
David

 

[Yoricko]

Hello all,
I recently shot some rolls of Tri-X 400 medium format at iso 320. I intend to develop them myself so I need advice as to which developer to use and what timing etc. I'm a newbie at this so any sharing of their experience would be much appreciated.

Regards
David

Did your own developing before or not?

 

[dtkky]

Frankly, no. So looking forward to any advice.

David

 

[Yoricko]

Many resources on the web, can look up to chiif's website and see the devloping page. You could also read the stickies in this sub-forum.

So you shot Tri-X accidentally at 320?
In that case, you should develop normally (400) or maybe just ~5% less.

Don't rush if you just started, load the film slowly, make sure you don't damage or bend the film while loading in the darkroom/changing bag, prepare chemicals and make sure it's at the desired temperature.

You can go download the Tri-X technical data and see the developing times.
Do take note if you use the HC-110 developer, Kodak Tri-X timings is very weird.

 

[dtkky]

Thanks for the advice. I have been reading a lot on the web but need advice as to what developer to get (meaning what is available locally). I shot it at iso 320 intentionally. This advice was given to me by the uncle at Ruby. Also, I have read on the web that Tri-X is best shot slightly over-exposed ie. iso 200-320 for better details in the shadows.

David

 

[Yoricko]

Thanks for the advice. I have been reading a lot on the web but need advice as to what developer to get (meaning what is available locally). I shot it at iso 320 intentionally. This advice was given to me by the uncle at Ruby. Also, I have read on the web that Tri-X is best shot slightly over-exposed ie. iso 200-320 for better details in the shadows.

David

Ah, so you shot it intentionally.

The term used by many old timers is,
"Expose for the shadows, develop for the highlights"

Which basically means exposing for the shadow details, and reducing development to make sure the highlight doesn't get blown out.

Anyways, reduce development by around 5% will do. (Or more if the scene is really contrasty)

TMax Dev is easy to use and get, but is quite expensive.

 

[dtkky]

Yes, that was the intention.

Just checked with Ruby. They have in stock the fo;;owing developers:
1) Tmax
2) HC-110
3) Ilfotec DDX

Anybody used any of the above developers for Tri-X and would like to share their experience?

Regards
David

 

[greg]

try some of the recipe I've used on my films and developer combo, have fun

http://www.gregchoongphotography.com/newbie_bw.htm

 

[dtkky]

Thanks Greg for the link. Co-incidentally, I was just looking at that page an hour ago whilst googling for tips. In particular, Tri-X at iso320 D-76 1+1 6min 15 sec at 27 sec. Do you have links to any photos using this recipe?

Regards
David

 

[dtkky]

Oh, one more thing. Greg, is the recipe for 135 or 120 film?

David

 

[catchlights]

just process at it is, rate at ISO 400, you were told to overexposed the negative a little, is one third stop anyway, why would you want to pull process it?

btw, it is not much different too, since the tri-x has very large exposure latitude. and also it is easier to get good results from a "thick" negative than a "thin" negative

 

[LTG]

How abt ID 11(D76) cheap & good can go to 1+3, at 29C & Microphen

 

[Yoricko]

My Recipe -
Works for me, don't know about others

HC-110 Dilution (H) // 1:63 (5ml Concentrate / 315ml Water)
Illford Rapid Fixer
x4 300ml Bottled Water (Same type of bottle used in Dev and Fixer, my Green Tea Bottles)

Throw all the 6 bottles in the freezer to get them to 24ºC (Takes about 7minutes 30seconds from ~29.5ºC)
Load film in the Dev Tank in a changing bang
Check temperature, if its too cold, I'll surf the net for 5 minutes, too warm, back to freezer,
Get my iPod Touch Stopwatch ready, pour Developer in the Tank and press start.
4 Slow inversions for the first 20 seconds, 1 Slow inversion every minute after.
At 9minutes 25seconds, pour out developer into the toilet bowl.
Then pour in the chilled water for 30 seconds rinse, about 20 inversions.
Then pour the fixer, followed bottle instructions. 3minutes 30seconds (25 seconds, 5 seconds to pour out)
Then Illford Rinse using the last 3 chilled bottles.

 

[greg]

Oh, one more thing. Greg, is the recipe for 135 or 120 film?

David

I documented those based on 135 however I shot alot of 120 Tri-x using the same recipe and the results were consistent. The only thing you need to factor in is when you agitate a 120 tank, you need to make sure roll(s) are evenly developed. I used to develop a 2 rolls of 120 at one go so I used a stirrer to spin the axel holding the reels instead of flipping the tank as it was heavy and inconsistency might occur as a result.

shooting tri-x at 200-320 and developing it at 400 has always been the best combination for me.

Greg

 

[greg]

my way to maintain consistent temperature is to develop it in an air-con environment. As I usually have my tri-x in 25c, also a typical aircon temperature, I only need to have the water settle (no ice, no fridge/warming etc) and you have a consistent 7 min developing throughout, that takes away this inconsistency factor our of your equation and just concentrate on the rest.

Just my 2 cents.

Greg

My Recipe -
Works for me, don't know about others

HC-110 Dilution (H) // 1:63 (5ml Concentrate / 315ml Water)
Illford Rapid Fixer
x4 300ml Bottled Water (Same type of bottle used in Dev and Fixer, my Green Tea Bottles)

Throw all the 6 bottles in the freezer to get them to 24ºC (Takes about 7minutes 30seconds from ~29.5ºC)
Load film in the Dev Tank in a changing bang
Check temperature, if its too cold, I'll surf the net for 5 minutes, too warm, back to freezer,
Get my iPod Touch Stopwatch ready, pour Developer in the Tank and press start.
4 Slow inversions for the first 20 seconds, 1 Slow inversion every minute after.
At 9minutes 25seconds, pour out developer into the toilet bowl.
Then pour in the chilled water for 30 seconds rinse, about 20 inversions.
Then pour the fixer, followed bottle instructions. 3minutes 30seconds (25 seconds, 5 seconds to pour out)
Then Illford Rinse using the last 3 chilled bottles.

 

[greg]

Thanks Greg for the link. Co-incidentally, I was just looking at that page an hour ago whilst googling for tips. In particular, Tri-X at iso320 D-76 1+1 6min 15 sec at 27 sec. Do you have links to any photos using this recipe?

Regards
David

here's one I took years ago, still one of my favourite shots.