D5000 2nd lens help

[kriegsketten]

Think its around 125 bucks & its +8 mag

Thank you for your bugalicious comment Much practice is needed when using the raynox 250. Once you get it right, then its just practice makes perfect.
But then again, how you want the DOF to work for you is depending on your shoot. Not all shoots need to be f22 or f2, so it depends on the subject & how you want to translate your shot.
As for your last question, daredevil123 has given you the answer.
I see that you're being poisoned here.......:bsmilie:

Okay, then considered lesson learnt, since coming from both pros like you two. :sweat: I'll test them out when I get my equipment.

Poisoned??? What poisoned?? State your reasons, Martian! :bsmilie:

 

[madmartian]

Okay, then considered lesson learnt, since coming from both pros like you two. :sweat: I'll test them out when I get my equipment.

Poisoned??? What poisoned?? State your reasons, Martian! :bsmilie:

Poison? What poison? Who mentioned poison here? :dunno: :bsmilie: :bsmilie:

 

[kriegsketten]

Poison? What poison? Who mentioned poison here? :dunno: :bsmilie: :bsmilie:

Wah-seh! Tai-ji master... ^^^ :bsmilie:

I thought you would be busy shooting outside today.

 

[daredevil123]

Thanks for the clarification. Provided the ISO at the higher level doesn't give too much unacceptable noise level (pending which camera body) that is. My experience is from SLRs, I've yet to transfer my skills onto DSLRs at the moment. From my previous experience, I'd close my aperture to the smallest, use the slowest shutter speed possible (1 or 2 stops below the recommended), control the light and use the lowest possible ISO (for increased detail and sharpness) and at the same time to get the maximum DOF possible. At that time, I was using ISO 80 films... Which is why, lighting to me is the utmost importance in what I'm doing - if I can set the best lighting possible, I'd able to max out the DOF without increasing ISO (both of which I need to maintain).

Yes. I agree lighting is very important in taking any picture. But to say that lighting is the most important control over the dof like you did in an earlier statement is stretching it a little too far.

You can always add flash if ambient lighting is too low, and still maintain a deep dof.

BTW I am not a pro. I am just a hobbyist like anyone else. And my pictures suck.

 

[kriegsketten]

Yes. I agree lighting is very important in taking any picture. But to say that lighting is the most important control over the dof like you did in an earlier statement is stretching it a little too far.

You can always add flash if ambient lighting is too low, and still maintain a deep dof.

BTW I am not a pro. I am just a hobbyist like anyone else. And my pictures suck.

Maybe if you understand what I need to shoot you might see what I'm getting at. The Macros I'm getting into involves a really deep (short of calling it extreme) DOF - every little detail inside 30 to 40cm (not mm) or greater needs to be captured very sharply - there is completely no need for nice Bokehs as it's nothing about artist compositions. The objective is just get everything in as sharply as possible, without over exposing or under exposing... I use high intensity spot lights with the support of ambient light instead of Flash.. Flash can be used but I prefer the former. And we mainly shoot indoors in a controlled environment(studio for some). Objects rather than wild life or insects. The lens can be as close as 1 to 2cm to the object or slightly further back...

But okay, I'll accept that my statement is stretching it too far.

 

[madmartian]

Wah-seh! Tai-ji master... ^^^ :bsmilie:

I thought you would be busy shooting outside today.

No tai-ji master & no pro here. Just a martian taking photos of earthlings, bugs & cats & lizards & birds