Which parameter recommended for 300D? Para1 or AdobeRGB


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ST_sg

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Hi all,

I just learn that, in order to do post processing or some color correction in PS, we have to use Adobe 1998 color space.

OK, the questions is should I left it as Parameter #1 at 300D or should set to Adobe RGB? If I leave it as para #1, everytime I use PS CS to open new images from 300D, it prompt me to convert to Adobe1998 profile. Quite annoying :confused:

If I shoot it in RAW format, is it better to choose Adobe RGB setting too?
What's setting you guys have?

Thanks in advance. :)
 

madmacs

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ST_sg said:
Hi all,

I just learn that, in order to do post processing or some color correction in PS, we have to use Adobe 1998 color space.

OK, the questions is should I left it as Parameter #1 at 300D or should set to Adobe RGB? If I leave it as para #1, everytime I use PS CS to open new images from 300D, it prompt me to convert to Adobe1998 profile. Quite annoying :confused:

If I shoot it in RAW format, is it better to choose Adobe RGB setting too?
What's setting you guys have?

Thanks in advance. :)
if you are going to shoot raw then it doesn't matter what you set on the 300d. the 300d setting is only if you are shooting jpeg.

when opening the raw with adobe cs, you can set the colorspace there. if you choose adobe rgb then it won't bug you with the annoying prompt.
 

ST_sg

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I see... how about shooting in Jpeg? Should I set it to Adobe RGB on the 300d?

Actually, is there any different? :dunno:

Thanks again. :)
 

varf

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i leave my 300D on parameter #2 (+0 on everything). to be honest, i don't have the patience to post-process every single photo from RAW, so i shoot in large JPEG unless it's very important.

your mileage may vary; i'd suggest trying the different settings and see which one suits your post-processing habits (or intended effects) best.

hope that helps.
 

madmacs

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if shooting jpeg then no harm setting to adobe rgb since it has a larger colorspace than srgb. you can always output to srgb later if necessary.

if disk space is not an issue, i would suggest shooting raw since
1. the 300d captures 12-bit images. if you shoot jpeg (8-bit) i would imagine you are losing a fair bit of image data.
2. the camera will be processing the raw to jpeg for you and the results may not be what you want, and you won't be able to do much about it subsequently since you won't have access to the raw data.
3. you get to play with color temperature, adjust exposure all before importing into photoshop cs.
4. you can't modify the raw file itself thru normal editing. so the raw can serve as your untouched digital negative.
 

oeyvind

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Unless you know what you doing in term of color workflow, save your trouble leave it in sRGB mode.

Web images and most lab defaults to sRGB colorspace.
 

ST_sg

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oeyvind said:
Unless you know what you doing in term of color workflow, save your trouble leave it in sRGB mode.

Web images and most lab defaults to sRGB colorspace.
Hi guys, appreciate all your input.

oeyvvind, oh... because I'd like to find out / learn more about digital photography and digital workflow mah... since I'm not from photography background, that's why have so much stupid questions lor :p

Sometime photoshop book for digital photographer also didn't tell much...

Thanks :)
 

nutek

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oeyvind said:
Unless you know what you doing in term of color workflow, save your trouble leave it in sRGB mode.

Web images and most lab defaults to sRGB colorspace.
Agreed!
Most printers and labs can't print more colors than sRGB, so there are 2 schools of thought with regards to color management:

AdobeRGB supporters:
"If in the future got some powerful new printer that can print more colors than sRGB, then I can print all my adobeRGB JPGs again with all the hidden colors popping out now."

sRGB supporters:
"No printer currently available (this looks set to change, however, with the newest archival pigment-ink inkjets from Epson) can print more than sRGB, so save yourself all the color management woes and stick to sRGB instead."

Moral of the story? Shoot RAW, or always backup your original JPEGs, so that you'll always have a "clean" set of input files to play with next time, when the Super Duper new printers come out.

If you shoot portraits however, it is recommended to use ColormatchRGB. ColormatchRGB packs more info in the flesh-colors (at the expense of other colors). You probably won't see the difference on screen, but if you look at the color histogram when u convert in PS CS, you can see the difference between the different workspaces.
 

freelancer

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nutek said:
Agreed!
Most printers and labs can't print more colors than sRGB
Not true - the Frontier or Noritsu printers color gamut is larger than sRGB.
 

oeyvind

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freelancer said:
Not true - the Frontier or Noritsu printers color gamut is larger than sRGB.
Sure, but by default these printers are set to use sRGB color space and not the printer's native gamut.
 

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