What Lenses to use for ROM and Wedding??


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skyboy

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Hi all,


My friend want me to be his photographer for his ROM. Just want to know which lenses is suitable for this event? and at the same time want to buy new lenses as my old one performance not so good, so what u recommand.

For those experience guy, can give me some tips and what to look for a good picture.

Pls help, I don't want to disappoint my friend.

Rgds
Sky
 

yo brother!
let's hope u won't disappoint ur friend!!

for that, use ISO400 films or slides or digital settings...
get a good flash! can turn the flash head one... omni bounce and bounce card!
lens... i think 28-80 is pretty good enough.
but really depends or ur style and coverage... some ppl will tell u to go wider...
 

Hello,

Usually I carry 3 lens for weddings>24-50mm, 24-85mm, 100mm vario soft lens.why 24mm??some restaraunts is so cramp that you cannot back up any more.settings are 1/30, f 5.6,manual mode on the camera, TTL flash metering for 24-50mm lens and 24-85 lens.

I'm using flash bounce off the roof with a bounce card if it's not so high. I will use 400 ISO film.compensate on body +1/2 stops and flash 1/2 stops.what you can do also is to rate your film at 320 ISO and + 1/2 stops on the flash. I also use a flash bracket if the ballroom is too high to bounce in the vertical cropping.

hope this helps........

OT here, hey sadness, tok we gonna go :cheers: ?? you MIA so long ah......
 

andylee said:
I'm using flash bounce off the roof with a bounce card if it's not so high.


Sorry, can you explain what you mean by "bounce off the roof with a bounce card..."?
 

ST1100 said:
Sorry, can you explain what you mean by "bounce off the roof with a bounce card..."?

It means aim the flash head to hit the ceiling.....
 

andylee said:
OT here, hey sadness, tok we gonna go :cheers: ?? you MIA so long ah......

yeah brother!
me out of action for some time. why no one organise :cheers: huh...
hahahaha
hey man, will keep u in mind when got chance to go boozing!
 

skyboy said:
Hi all,


My friend want me to be his photographer for his ROM. Just want to know which lenses is suitable for this event? and at the same time want to buy new lenses as my old one performance not so good, so what u recommand.

For those experience guy, can give me some tips and what to look for a good picture.

Pls help, I don't want to disappoint my friend.

Rgds
Sky

i think u also need to share wth us wat lenses u've got... equipment...
some restaurants have very high ceilings... thus... might not be able to bounce off the roof.
if u have more wide lenses, then take them along. perhaps one dedicated wide lens and a standard zoom.
 

dun stand too near the subject when bouncing flash,u might get uneven iluminations,if u are not sure,i would advise u to use straight on flash..
 

andylee said:
Hello,

Usually I carry 3 lens for weddings>24-50mm, 24-85mm, 100mm vario soft lens.why 24mm??some restaraunts is so cramp that you cannot back up any more.settings are 1/30, f 5.6,manual mode on the camera, TTL flash metering for 24-50mm lens and 24-85 lens.

I'm using flash bounce off the roof with a bounce card if it's not so high. I will use 400 ISO film.compensate on body +1/2 stops and flash 1/2 stops.what you can do also is to rate your film at 320 ISO and + 1/2 stops on the flash. I also use a flash bracket if the ballroom is too high to bounce in the vertical cropping.

hope this helps........

OT here, hey sadness, tok we gonna go :cheers: ?? you MIA so long ah......

Hi Andy,

Just curious and want to understand more about your settings. You said you +0.5 stops of ambient exposure and +0.5 stops of flash. What's your reason for doing that? And I want to clarify something, does this settings effectively sets your flash exposure to +1 stop? And also, since you are using manual mode, this wouldn't affect the ambient exposure right?

Jerry
 

say you camera is "A" mode, your readings is 1/90 f4, +1/2 stops on the camera compensation will change the reading to 1/60 f4. +1/2 stop on the flash compensation will only make the flash fire at 1/2 stop more. if you are using "M" mode, then nothing will change for the camera compensation.but flash compensation will change if you +1/2 stop.as for "S" mode, it's the vice versa as "A" mode. we usually do that to be on the safe side cause TTL metering will cock-up if there is too much white or black in the composition.
 

andylee said:
say you camera is "A" mode, your readings is 1/90 f4, +1/2 stops on the camera compensation will change the reading to 1/60 f4. +1/2 stop on the flash compensation will only make the flash fire at 1/2 stop more. if you are using "M" mode, then nothing will change for the camera compensation.but flash compensation will change if you +1/2 stop.as for "S" mode, it's the vice versa as "A" mode. we usually do that to be on the safe side cause TTL metering will cock-up if there is too much white or black in the composition.

Ok. Understood and thanks. Agree with you on being on the safe side. But just want to clarify this: if you +0.5 on ambient and +0.5 on flash, the effective compensation on the flash will be +1 right? That is the flash will fire at 1 stop more light. Right?
 

Jerry said:
Ok. Understood and thanks. Agree with you on being on the safe side. But just want to clarify this: if you +0.5 on ambient and +0.5 on flash, the effective compensation on the flash will be +1 right? That is the flash will fire at 1 stop more light. Right?

Wrong, when you +1/2 each,for the cam compensation,you get 1/2 stop more ambience. for the flash, you get 1/2 stop more flash output.
 

You see, when you +1/2 stop to the camera compensation in "A" mode, the shutter speed will already drop. If the flash still fire +1 stop, then it will be total 1.5 stops.of course +1.5 stops is nothing to colour films.but slides will be wash out.
 

andylee said:
You see, when you +1/2 stop to the camera compensation in "A" mode, the shutter speed will already drop. If the flash still fire +1 stop, then it will be total 1.5 stops.of course +1.5 stops is nothing to colour films.but slides will be wash out.

Hi,

Actually, I understand from somewhere that in minolta cameras, the camera ambient exposure compensation and the flash exposure compensation are coupled when you use flash.

It makes sense actually, cos setting the ambient compensation is the same as resetting the iso value. For eg, if you set +1 to exposure compensation, its the same as setting an iso 400 film at iso 200. So lets say you set your exposure compensation to +1. To the camera and the flash, you require +1 stop more light and hence the flash will also fire in such a way as to provide 1 stop more light. And lets say in addition to the exposure compensation, you set flash compensation to another +1, this would mean that in addition to what the camera recognises that the exposure requires an extra stop of light, the flash will also fire off another extra stop of light. Therefore, effectively, your flash will provide exposure for +2 stops of light. Of course in this scenario, lets say your ambient isn't affected by the flash exposure, then the ambient will only register a +1 increase in exposure (like you said the shutter speed will drop in A mode).

In another example, if you actually set exposure compensatin to +1 and for some reason you set flash compensation to -1, then the effective flash output is the same as without compensation. Of course, in this case, the ambient is still +1 since the shutter has drop.

Not sure you get what I mean but have always known (and used) this logic but it seems that many people don't agree/understand. Thats why I wanted to clarify this.

Anyway, hows life? May drop by minolta showroom one day. :)

Jerry
 

Ha Ha,

As long as we get good pics, that's most important. I think every individual got difference ways of thinking....

Jerry, r u using Dynax 9??among my friends, you are the only JERRY using Dynax 9. :D
 

andylee said:
Ha Ha,

As long as we get good pics, that's most important. I think every individual got difference ways of thinking....

Jerry, r u using Dynax 9??among my friends, you are the only JERRY using Dynax 9. :D

Haha,

Yes, its me with the dynax 9.

Anyway, thought of a better way to explain (why didn't I think of this before). The exposure compensation affects the general exposure which include ambient and flash (if you are using flash), while the flash compensation only adjusts the power of flash.

Cheers
Jerry
 

I think of it this way:

Exposure compensation handles the level of ambient lighting that u get in the shot.

Flash compensation handles the subject exposure.

So if u shoot with exposure compensation only, u will get more ambient light into the shot but the subject will remain expose the same as without any exposure compensation.

Now if u add flash compensation to the mix, then u will get more ambient light cos either your shutter speed drops or your aperture opens by the number of stops u set for the exposure compensation part while your subject will be more brightly illuminated now cos your flash duration is now longer.

Meaning to say that as long as u keep the exposure compensation with resonable limits, u'll not overexpose the subject. But if u push up the flash compensation by too much, then your subject will be overexposed (hotspots may form) but the background is going to look okay.......

Correct? :D
 

Guess I kinda really started this discussion about exposure and flash compensation in this thread, so I think I ought to share what I think.

Firstly, I am quite sure that when you set exposure compensation, your subject lighted up by your flash will also be affected. Like I said, exposure compensation affects the general exposure. That is to say if you +1 exposure compensation (without flash compensation), your flash will increase its output/duration to light up the subject 1 stop more. Actually come to think of it, if you are not using slow sync, then the ambient light shouldn't change much since (assuming you using A mode) the shutter speed setting won't change for a particular focal length used (similar logic for S mode?). Perhaps if you are in P mode, the ambient exposure will increase (maybe somebody can clarify this). Of course, in manual mode, you basically control the ambient exposure yourself so compensation or not doesn't matter. Anyway, for your info, I use manual mode most of the times for flash photography and sometimes A mode.

Well, everything you said about flash compensation seems right in my opinion. Basically, increasing or decreasing flash compensation, adjust the flash output/duration. Tricky part is when you use both exposure and flash compensation together, cos the effect is cumulative.

Of course, remember that whatever I am talking here I am talking about the true exposure (i.e. slides) and not whether you can get acceptable prints after compensation from the lab.
 

I cannot agree with the part that setting exposure compensation does not affect shutter speed/aperture size.
Let's use a low light situation where getting ambient lighting is important.

If u had taken the shot without a flash, u still can dial in exposure compensation. In this case, if u set +1EV (i.e. overexpose by 1 stop), then if u are in A mode, since u set the aperture (or DOF), then the shutter speed must drop to allow the compensation. If u are in S mode, then the aperture opens one stop to allow more light in. In both cases, the level of ambient light (i.e. background light) is increased. However, the subject exposure also increases by one stop as u let more light in.

Now if u add the flash into the equation, the flash fires regardless of the aperture setting. The flash duration is dependent solely only on the level of reflection of the subject that the flash meter reads. It is not dependent on the your aperture setting. This is because the change +1EV results in a negligible amount of light increase as compared to the flash, and so the flash output is not affected by the increased ambient lighting.
So the level of ambient lighting as in the earlier "flashless" case, will also increase by one stop by either dropping shutter speed or increasing aperture size depending on the mode u use. Now the flash will fire such that the subject will be lit the same as in the earlier "flashless" case. The reason is that the flash output is controlled by the amount of reflection through the lens. Once the flash meter detects that the subject is lit properly, it cuts the flash burst.

Therefore while it is correct to say that exposure compensation alters the lighting of the total frame, the flsh compensates via TTL/ADI/matrix metering to light up the subjct properly. This means that if u dial in +1 EV, then the flash duration will cut due to the increased amount of light reaching the film plane from the larger aperture or slower shutter speed. Therefore the ambient light increases while the exposure for the subject remains constant. In which case, the increased ambient light is due to the change in either shutter speed or aperture size.

Now if u dial in flash compensation, and if u dial in +1/2 stop, then what will happen is that the subject will be overexposed by 1/2 stop now. Cos u force the flash to fire for a longer duration that what the camera's onboard computer calculated as the suitable timing. But since the aperture size did not change (with the increased flash duration), then the background (which inherently is darker in low light) will still look ok since the aperture set + the exposure compensation was already right for the level of exposure of the background that u wanted.

I hope i am clear........ :D
 

Generally, EV compensation only works on 1 variable. If you are shooting in Aperture priority, EV compensation works by adjusting the shutter speed. If you are shooting in Shutter priority, EV compensation may then work by adjusting the aperture.

In flash photography situations, both shutter speed and aperture will affect the amount of ambient light captured.

However, shutter speed doesn't affect any part of the flash exposure at all.

Aperture affects the rate of fall-off of the flashlight from subject to background along with distance.

However, TTL flash ensures that the flash exposure for the main subject is relatively constant in spite of all the adjustments unless you adjust the flash compensation value.
 

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