what lens to use to shoot aquarium pictures


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HEki

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Jan 15, 2006
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hi,
yesterday i bought pentax k20d and i still have 16-45/4, sigma 105/2.8, sigma 18-200/3,5-6,3 lenses from my istDs ... the best lens so far is sigma 105 macro. Can u guys tell me what lenses u use to shoot aquarium pictures (fish and stuff :))

thx
 

Polarizer far more important than lens.
 

hi,
yesterday i bought pentax k20d and i still have 16-45/4, sigma 105/2.8, sigma 18-200/3,5-6,3 lenses from my istDs ... the best lens so far is sigma 105 macro. Can u guys tell me what lenses u use to shoot aquarium pictures (fish and stuff :))

thx

As waileong stated, a polariser. Reason is that a polariser is used to reduce reflections and enhance colours. Any lens can take aquarium pics, but only on how u want to compose it.
 

i feel a flash is more important. most of the time, there just isnt enough light...
 

i feel a flash is more important. most of the time, there just isnt enough light...

huh? u must be joking... how abt the reflection??:confused:
 

Manual lens may be better than autofocus lens, esp if your lens cannot focus on subjects through glass.
 

huh? u must be joking... how abt the reflection??:confused:

Hacknet is not joking. Flash is essential but we don't mount flash on camera when shooting aquarium. In fact for better effect, like better DOF or sharper image for macro shots of fish, it is neccessary to use several flash guns as slaves on top and at angles pointing to the tank and fire from a flash light transmitter.
 

I think a UV filter will suffice!
 

ive got quite a number of shots with a single flash above the tank with no polarisers on.

like this one..

24406-1196177856-0.jpg
 

ive got quite a number of shots with a single flash above the tank with no polarisers on.

like this one..


orite... got what u mean...:sweatsm:
 

Normally, i set my cam to higher ISO and increase shutter speed when i was at Sentosa Underwater World and of course with EFS 17-85 USM IS. At times, IS do play a very important part for indoor and moving objects.

I also don't use flash and polariser. But with polariser might able to get better pics as it can remove reflection..etc I believe your sigma 16-45/4 will be the best choice.

Hope this would helps. ;)
 

Why would you need a polariser to cut down the amount of light??

I shoot directly perpendicular to the tank glass and use flashes either set above the tank or with multiple flashes to light up the subject(s) and there has never been a reflection issue.

A 60mm on a 1.5x crop cam is pretty much the limit for me or else I'd have to be pretty far away from my tank to shoot.
 

flash is a must after looking one pro do it. on a small tank big enough for just 1 fish, he already using 2 strobes.
 

hm,
i know taking an aquarium pictures is harder than it seems ... and like u guys said there is a big light problem. However, i do feel that using flash for fish is a :nono: why? whenever the flash sets off it may scare the fish! fish cant blink! their eyes are always open!
so what i will do is set up an extra light around the aquarium, turn it on when i start shooting and turn it off when i am finished ...
something like this here:
http://akuatic.net/search/label/Step by step by Takashi Amano

i do agree a macro lens is by far the most usefull lens, but my 105/2.8 is maybe a little to big.
I might consider buying 60/2.8, 50/2.8 or 70/2.8 one so i can be closer to the tank!

thx guys!
 

flash is only a very short burst, if you set up extra lights, bright enough to freeze the movement of fish, won't the fishes are more uncomfortable?

anyway, you don't need PL filter, as long you using black velvet to shade yourself and the camera, you will not have a reflection on the glass.

btw, light is set on top of the fish tank, the water will diffuse the light.
 

Polarisers have a place in some aquatic photography, especially when working in research tanks with a mix of daylight and strobes, and in certain circumstances where coverage of a large tank is concerned, but often, it could be more of polarised light sources rather than simply plonking a polariser filter in front of a lens. By 'large', we're talking about over 15 or 20 feet wide. There again, some pros have shot tanks large enough to contain a small whale without polarisers. It all depends on the shooting conditions.

Two absolutely crucial key factors in any form of controlled aquatic photography are:

1) Light (control, direction, quality and amount) and

2) Shooting from an absolutely darkened/black environment.

Needless to say, water must be as close to perfect as possible because millions of small particles, dirt etc will float around an active tank. These will be picked up when shooting.

If you're getting backlit reflections (from the photographers side, side of tank etc) shooting a home tank set-up, it simply means that some form of light is bouncing around outside the tank and is being captured. I seriously doubt if a polarising filter will help, except to cut down even more precious light.
 

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