What is wrong here


MRSAMO

New Member
Nov 17, 2008
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Australia->Japan
I'm trying out my new prime (85mm) and was wondering what am I doing wrong here:

img0165y.jpg


img01660.jpg



The settings are:

Exposure: 1/1250 secs
ISO: 100
Focal Length: 85mm
Aperture: f1.4
Shooting method: handheld
Lighting: outdoor and excellent

I set my shutter speed to something fast so that it won't pick up camera shake.

I believe my focusing is accurate looking through the viewfinder but in quite a few of my photos they don't look focused either. I've tried using liveview before and the picture came out good so it may not be backfocusing. The 15-85mm lens that I use has no problem though that's using auto-focusing.

Just wondering is it the aperture that's way too low (1.4) in a very bright environment, am I too close, are manual lenses really that sensitive to movement or is there really backfocusing?

The second shot seems to have some CA?

Here's a better attempt though the petals on the main subject still looks too bright:

img0176j0.jpg


I'm still new to shooting manual lenses by hand, any suggestions are welcomed thanks!
 

All the photo are over-expo, one way to solve this issue is to switch to partial/spot metering, go near to the white flower take the meter reading and step back re-shoot using the reading. In your case 1/250 to 1/500 sec should be able to solve the hand shack issue, but for landscape is best to set the f/stop at least f/5.6 to f/9. :)

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All the photo are over-expo, one way to solve this issue is to switch to partial/spot metering, go near to the white flower take the meter reading and step back re-shoot using the reading. In your case 1/250 to 1/500 sec should be able to solve the hand shack issue, but for landscape is best to set the f/stop at least f/5.6 to f/9. :)

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Ok, are you talking about another device to measure the meter reading? I'm shooting completely manual so have no idea about picking light source from one object to control the rest. I'm told to over-expose a little so that I can control the brightness later via post-processing. Seems difficult to capture something white.

Also I shot in 1/1250 secs, isn't that better? I think I will have to bring a tripod next time and try again.

Will try f/5.6 to f/9 setting, I wanted to get a bokeh type shot with these photos, think it can still be done at 5.6 thanks!
 

Ok, are you talking about another device to measure the meter reading? I'm shooting completely manual so have no idea about picking light source from one object to control the rest. I'm told to over-expose a little so that I can control the brightness later via post-processing. Seems difficult to capture something white.

Also I shot in 1/1250 secs, isn't that better? I think I will have to bring a tripod next time and try again.

Will try f/5.6 to f/9 setting, I wanted to get a bokeh type shot with these photos, think it can still be done at 5.6 thanks!



In your camera you can set your metering to spot(if any), partial and evaluate. You can read up your camera manual or do a search on the Internet. For example set your camera selection to P, let the camera control the f/stop and shetter speed, use your camera to take the meter reading and lock it, step back and reshoot the photo. :)

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TS, you are using spot metering but where did you meter? Metering will be tricky if the flower moves in the wind.
 

In your camera you can set your metering to spot(if any), partial and evaluate. You can read up your camera manual or do a search on the Internet. For example set your camera selection to P, let the camera control the f/stop and shetter speed, use your camera to take the meter reading and lock it, step back and reshoot the photo. :)

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Sorry to ask this question before TS. When you step back and reshoot, do you still shoot under P mode or set to M and follow the f and shutter speed from P before?:)
 

......I'm shooting completely manual......

Why don't you let the camera metering system do it's job and use the exposure compensation (EV) to fine tune your pictures.

Unless you're very good at reading the light condition visually, you should use P, A or S mode.
 

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Thanks guys, no I don't use P, A, or S, I just use either A or M :)

Daoyin, I guess I meter manually on the flower by setting my own ISO, shutter speed and aperture manually.

Silverpine, thanks I'll read more on it and try again.
 

I think its getting better:

5233568259_24b695c0fb_b.jpg


5233368959_6701e64e6a_b.jpg


And closeup on the uninvited guest:

5234093306_0caa6d8f25.jpg


Again, handheld, lowered the aperture setting to F5.6 or 7.1 and shoot. F1.4 is impossible without a tripod and the minimal DOF will throw the focus of the rest of the subject off.
 

If you have the aperture wide open, and even if you have done everything right... you still cannot control if a small whiff blowing on the flowers and they move out of the focused area. Hence, it is better to shoot with a smaller aperture.
 

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Thanks for the advice, I think I'm understand more about how to use this 1.4 lens and wide open. Will run a few test to compare with my other lenses under similar applications.

Also, Canon bodies do not give you any readings for manual lenses unlike Nikon bodies which can provide aperture and AF confirmation.
 

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Hi, just want to share my thoughts, i am no pro, and correct me if i am wrong as well..
I tried to shoot wide open before, and while the exposure is correct for the scene, some objects like the flower may be overly exposed.. i can't see the details in the flowers.. I, too, had some problems like this before, using f1.8, and i think it is because the exposure for that particular object is well beyond what i wanted, so there may be some softness resulted from this.. when i stopped down a little, the problem gets better.. i can see that in the latter pictures of yours..

just my thoughts, anyone who thinks that my concept is wrong, by all means, correct me as i am also still learning.. thanks!
 

Also, Canon bodies do not give you any readings for manual lenses unlike Nikon bodies which can provide aperture and AF confirmation.
Get the AF confirmation chips for manual lenses. Otherwise, Zeiss lenses with Canon mount have all the confirmation and data :devil:
 

Now your photo expo improved, happy shooting. :)

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Good to see your understanding has helped with much better results.
 

Thanks guys...am I....pro? lol just kidding.

Will need to practice a bit more, it seems like the 85mm just does not want to come off my camera :)
 

Get the AF confirmation chips for manual lenses. Otherwise, Zeiss lenses with Canon mount have all the confirmation and data :devil:

I think that is only available for nikon mounted manual lenses, not Canon.