I started off with lens reversal and extention tubes in the film ages some 37 years ago. When I moved to dSLR I used diopter converters (close-up filters), macro bellows, extension tubes, lens reversers, macro converters and any combination of those.
I found the quality to be best if macro bellows / extension tubes are used.
Macro converter on a normal lens give amazing results as well, in fact better than bellows if used with a normal lens, but the light loss is considerably more than just using tubes / bellows. The advantage is that the macro converter is corrected for close up and macro, meaning it produces a flattened image needed for edge to edge sharpness. That correction is not done with bellows, since there are no optics involved.
Reversing lens gives also very nice results. Especially, if you don't have a proper macro lens, reversing a 50 mm prime gives about 1:1 magnification. Reversing a lens has the advantages of an icrease in working distance, compared to using extension tubes to get the same magnification.
There is another type of reversed lens technology, which I don't think is very good for dSLR lenses using plastic lens tubes. That is to use a longer tele lens abd reverse a wide angle lens on it. It gives high magnification, but also the weight on an expensive tele lens front element is high, so I would advise against.
Adding dioper converters (macro converters) is OK, but most often not a good solution, unless you have a good lens AND use a high quality diopter converter, like the Canon 250D or 500D. Unfortunately, these are not cheap. Also, it is better to use at least one size larger lens and then use a filter converter to downsize the diopter converter to your lens filter diameter. This to enable use of the best part of the diopter converter, the center part. Diopter converters are almost never good at edges, except if very high quality, but if you just take some occasional close-up shots, that is acceptable.
In all cases, for good macro, light is critical. You may need to consider off camera flash, or ring flash. The higher the magnification the more light is lost. Use the lowest possible ISO to get the most out of the details. Use of manual focus may be necessary, depending on the lens, camera, available light and the magnification. Don't expect the availability of infinity focus. That is lost as soon as you change the caracteristics of the lens in any way. The useful working distance is reduced, just like the focusing distance. DOF becomes literally hair thin, depending on the magnification. Zooms are the worse type of lenses for macro. Try to get a proper macro lens, even an old lens made for film can give very high quality results. Remove any additional filters. Filters, however good they are, may add flare and degrade image quality. That is not noticable in normal shooting but can be seen in high magnification macro.
Lastly, there is a whole macro subforum on CS, visit and participate, ask the experts over there.