Using flash unit in outdoor environment


Status
Not open for further replies.
Jul 25, 2007
244
0
0
sidewaysphotographique.com
#1
hi all,

i would like to find out what kinda setting should i use for my flash unit when it comes to outdoor environment, where there's no ceiling or wall for the flash to bounce.

is it still alright to use a bounce card or omni-bounce?

please advise and thanks in advance.
 

grantyale

Senior Member
Oct 4, 2004
1,798
0
36
Bedok
#2
For fill-flash, you can just shoot with the flash pointing forward. The quality of light doesn't show since it's fill only. Bounce card is still a small area (hard) and you waste most of the output for nothing.

If the flash is the main light source, you may consider using an umbrella for diffusion.
 

zac08

Senior Member
Feb 21, 2005
11,755
0
0
East
#3
Outdoors?

shoot direct. Using any other forms of diffusers or bounce will just waste the power.
 

lennyl

New Member
Mar 27, 2008
1,520
0
0
Northern California
#5
will the flash be too harsh on the subject if ur flash unit is the main source of light?
The answer, together with what setup you should use, depends a lot on the situation. "Outdoors" doesn't quite give enough details. Refer to grantyale's post.
 

h2chng

New Member
May 2, 2006
474
0
0
East
#7
Maybe it will help if you paint us a scenario that you would like to use the flash for. Are you taking it at dusk, night or daytime? What are the type of photo you are trying to achieve?

I guess the clearer you are, the closer you are to realising the picture.

Cheers
 

Jun 23, 2004
130
0
0
Tampines, Singapore
#8
Emmhhh.. how about night potrait?
Flash set to rear curtain sync to capture the background. Aperture set to F8, camera on tripod, shutter 2-5s.
Should SB800 point direct? Or use bounce card to bounce flash? Or point direct with diffuser on?
 

calebk

Senior Member
Jul 25, 2006
10,594
0
0
Clementi
#9
Emmhhh.. how about night potrait?
Flash set to rear curtain sync to capture the background. Aperture set to F8, camera on tripod, shutter 2-5s.
Should SB800 point direct? Or use bounce card to bounce flash? Or point direct with diffuser on?
Rear curtain sync has nothing to do with capturing the background. Rear curtain sync simply means that the flash fires just prior to the shutter closing, as opposed to front curtain sync, where the flash fires just after the shutter first opens for the duration of the exposure.
 

Jun 23, 2004
130
0
0
Tampines, Singapore
#10
Rear curtain sync has nothing to do with capturing the background. Rear curtain sync simply means that the flash fires just prior to the shutter closing, as opposed to front curtain sync, where the flash fires just after the shutter first opens for the duration of the exposure.
Hi Calebk, thanks for sharing. :D
But, what would be your recommended setting for such scenario?
I tried bounce flash with built-in bounce card, the person get overexposed.
I put flash EVC -1/-2, then I get a decent pic.
 

Jul 25, 2007
244
0
0
sidewaysphotographique.com
#11
for example,

i'm intending to shoot some pics with some friends at a lantern festival.
i would like to capture my friends' faces as sharp as possible, as well as the back drop with lanterns. most probably would be shooting ard night time.

guess i would have to shoot it before i realise the problems that i'll be facing.

well, anyway thanks guys.
 

Nov 25, 2005
1,105
0
0
North
#12
Hi Calebk, thanks for sharing. :D
But, what would be your recommended setting for such scenario?
I tried bounce flash with built-in bounce card, the person get overexposed.
I put flash EVC -1/-2, then I get a decent pic.
is it because u meter the darker areas or is the person too close to u? built-in bounce card usually reflect a very small amount of flash forward.....
 

Nov 25, 2005
1,105
0
0
North
#13
for example,

i'm intending to shoot some pics with some friends at a lantern festival.
i would like to capture my friends' faces as sharp as possible, as well as the back drop with lanterns. most probably would be shooting ard night time.

guess i would have to shoot it before i realise the problems that i'll be facing.

well, anyway thanks guys.
wow...that will prb need tripod or high iso (No?)

maybe a LS?
 

lennyl

New Member
Mar 27, 2008
1,520
0
0
Northern California
#14
To capture the background far away, you need to expose for the background *without flash*.

Metering for dark situations (lantern at night, for example) is always tricky. Use spot metering, and take a few test shots. Our eyes are easily fooled (or, to put it another way, our brain does HDR very well). Use rear curtain sync so that your subject knows they can move when the flash fires the second time (depending on camera brand, flash metering mode, etc.) Since background exposure might take a couple of seconds, you'd need a tripod. Your subject should not be moving about too much.

Experiment around and see.
 

Jul 25, 2007
244
0
0
sidewaysphotographique.com
#15
To capture the background far away, you need to expose for the background *without flash*.

Metering for dark situations (lantern at night, for example) is always tricky. Use spot metering, and take a few test shots. Our eyes are easily fooled (or, to put it another way, our brain does HDR very well). Use rear curtain sync so that your subject knows they can move when the flash fires the second time (depending on camera brand, flash metering mode, etc.) Since background exposure might take a couple of seconds, you'd need a tripod. Your subject should not be moving about too much.

Experiment around and see.
i'll take note. thanks!
 

Status
Not open for further replies.
Top Bottom