Upgrading from D7000 to D500


atique

Member
May 15, 2012
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0
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Dear All

Request your suggestions

I have upgraded from D7000 to D500

I have the following lenses

1. 10.5 fisheye
2. 20 mm 1.8
3. 35 mm 1.8
4. 11-16 2.8 Tokina
5. 18-200 vr2
6. 16-80 E 2.8-4 (It came along D500)

I shoot landscape, travel photography, street photography, as a hobby.

I am an airline pilot so go on layovers, I always carry my camera.

I need to shed off some lenses along with D7000 which I plan to sell.

Which ones to keep and which to give away

Request suggestions from the CS members

Thanks and regards


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Dear All

Request your suggestions

I have upgraded from D7000 to D500

I have the following lenses

1. 10.5 fisheye
2. 20 mm 1.8
3. 35 mm 1.8
4. 11-16 2.8 Tokina
5. 18-200 vr2
6. 16-80 E 2.8-4 (It came along D500)

I shoot landscape, travel photography, street photography, as a hobby.

I am an airline pilot so go on layovers, I always carry my camera.

I need to shed off some lenses along with D7000 which I plan to sell.

Which ones to keep and which to give away

Request suggestions from the CS members

Thanks and regards


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

1. 10.5 fisheye
2. 20 mm 1.8
3. 35 mm 1.8
4. 11-16 2.8 Tokina
5. 18-200 vr2
6. 16-80 E 2.8-4 (It came along D500)

10.5 fish eye and tokina 11-16 f2.8 - choose one

Sell away the 18-200

20mm and 35mm which do you use more? I'd keep the 20mm

16-80 is a versatile focal length range that should cover most situations.

But if really want to travel light, tokina 11-16 and 16-80.


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1. 10.5 fisheye
2. 20 mm 1.8
3. 35 mm 1.8
4. 11-16 2.8 Tokina
5. 18-200 vr2
6. 16-80 E 2.8-4 (It came along D500)

10.5 fish eye and tokina 11-16 f2.8 - choose one

Sell away the 18-200

20mm and 35mm which do you use more? I'd keep the 20mm

16-80 is a versatile focal length range that should cover most situations.

But if really want to travel light, tokina 11-16 and 16-80.


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Thanks a lot Ortega


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I'd keep the 20mm

16-80 is a versatile focal length range that should cover most situations.

But if really want to travel light, tokina 11-16 and 16-80.

i second the above suggestion but if there's no need to rid of the 18-200, keep it for times when you know you need something longer.
 

i second the above suggestion but if there's no need to rid of the 18-200, keep it for times when you know you need something longer.

Thanks jfoo


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Thanks jfoo


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as for the 20mm and 35mm, both are great lenses in their own right. don't unload if you don't have to. you are good to go for full frame next time.
 

Not sure if you've seen this site but there seems to be some amazing photo ops from inside the cockpit that we normally never get the privilege to see so maybe you can draw inspiration from here:
https://jpcvanheijst.com/
As for the actual lenses, the advice already given are all sound and I echo their sentiments.
Only thing I'd add is the 16-80 easily outperforms the 18-200 in the common FL range whilst the long end of the 18-200 is not particularly strong.
I know you're trying to downsize but I would consider replacing the 18-200 with a better tele. Maybe 70-300 but I think that lens is rumoured to be replaced soon.
 

Not sure if you've seen this site but there seems to be some amazing photo ops from inside the cockpit that we normally never get the privilege to see so maybe you can draw inspiration from here:
https://jpcvanheijst.com/
As for the actual lenses, the advice already given are all sound and I echo their sentiments.
Only thing I'd add is the 16-80 easily outperforms the 18-200 in the common FL range whilst the long end of the 18-200 is not particularly strong.
I know you're trying to downsize but I would consider replacing the 18-200 with a better tele. Maybe 70-300 but I think that lens is rumoured to be replaced soon.

Swifty

Hi

A very nice site you have sent me la

Amazing

Really impressed. Started thinking that I wasted my 30 years in cockpit.

It's never too late.

I have a 10.5. And will start on it

Thanks for sending me the link.

On the further side of the spectrum I was thinks no of getting a 300 PF. Which I have heard to be nice and light.

What do you say?


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I went eastern Europe last year with a D7200. I agree the Tokina wide zoom plus the Nikon 16-80 will pretty cover almost all your needs. For greater reach, I also brought along the Nikon 70-200 F4. Light weight and great optics.The 3 mentioned lenses will cover 11 to 200 mm superbly.
 

Get the Laowa 12mm and the 300mm f4E.
 

Can't comment directly on the 300mm PF but from everything I've read, it's a gem.
But you're starting to venture into a more specialist lens with the 300 prime rather than a general tele zoom.
The 70-200/f4 VR that wmtan suggested is a good performer and relatively lightweight.
It really depends on what you're after and what you'll be shooting.
Inside the cockpit, I'd imagine a zoom with VR to be more versatile but if you get into wildlife or sports photography, then the 300 PF's definitely gonna be better.
 

Swifty
Hi
I am going to try the 300pf along with 1.4tc for birding.

In side the flight deck the best option is 11-16 or 10.5


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Swifty
Hi
I am going to try the 300pf along with 1.4tc for birding.

In side the flight deck the best option is 11-16 or 10.5

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On the D500, the 10.5mm is very obviously not sharp.

And I will let you in on a secret: the 300mm f4E takes the 1.7x TC very well. This combo on the D500 is my handheld birding setup of choice now.
 

The 300PF should be pretty awesome on the D500 as a lightweight birding rig. As this is not a genre I shoot, I'll leave further advise to others like Uncle Fai who are familiar with the lens and TC combos.

As for the 10.5mm vs 11-16, I think you're in the best position to tell us as we're not familiar with the flight deck.
Experiment a bit since you still have both and keep the more useful lens.
 

Due to limited space and lo lighting conditions inside the flight deck, you need a fast and wide lens. In the beginning I have been using a d800 with 14-24 but it was too bulky.
Then I started to use d7000 with 10.5 and things were good but with a average performance of the d7000 in lo light I shifted to d500. With hdr and multiple exposure I could really get some good shots.
The best shots I got were in a iphone.


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Hmmm.. if your best images so far are from your iPhone it tells us a few things.
Firstly iPhone's focal length is around 30mm (give or take). So either of your wide lens (15.75mm and 16.5-24mm equivalent) will be plenty wide.
Secondly, a D7000 and 10.5mm which has max aperture of f2.8 should easily outperform an iPhone in low light situations and the D500 only improves on this (though not by a huge margin).
So you're not getting the most out of your equipment either through your settings or processing.
Are you a jpeg or raw shooter? Do you post process your photos? You'll find that the files from your DSLR will have a lot more latitude but the SOOC jpegs may not look particularly good compared to iPhone shots.
If you prefer not to process, then you need to fiddle with in-camera Jpeg settings to improve your sooc images. Try playing with the D-lighting setting.
In terms of your settings, are you controlling the settings yourself or using one of the program modes. Also, are you hand holding your shots, selfie style or other?
If you can set the camera down somewhere you could afford to lengthen your shutter speed, stop down your lens a little and reduce your ISO leading to better image quality. I'm sure tripods are out of the question on the flight deck but maybe you can use a small table top one or a gorillapod.

PS. I don't know your photography knowledge level so i'm not sure if what I've written may be confusing. Let me know whether it makes sense to you.
 

Hmmm.. if your best images so far are from your iPhone it tells us a few things.
Firstly iPhone's focal length is around 30mm (give or take). So either of your wide lens (15.75mm and 16.5-24mm equivalent) will be plenty wide.
Secondly, a D7000 and 10.5mm which has max aperture of f2.8 should easily outperform an iPhone in low light situations and the D500 only improves on this (though not by a huge margin).
So you're not getting the most out of your equipment either through your settings or processing.
Are you a jpeg or raw shooter? Do you post process your photos? You'll find that the files from your DSLR will have a lot more latitude but the SOOC jpegs may not look particularly good compared to iPhone shots.
If you prefer not to process, then you need to fiddle with in-camera Jpeg settings to improve your sooc images. Try playing with the D-lighting setting.
In terms of your settings, are you controlling the settings yourself or using one of the program modes. Also, are you hand holding your shots, selfie style or other?
If you can set the camera down somewhere you could afford to lengthen your shutter speed, stop down your lens a little and reduce your ISO leading to better image quality. I'm sure tripods are out of the question on the flight deck but maybe you can use a small table top one or a gorillapod.

PS. I don't know your photography knowledge level so i'm not sure if what I've written may be confusing. Let me know whether it makes sense to you.

Hi Swifty

Very nicely analyzed

My photography level could be "advanced amateur [emoji56]"

You are right that the equipment I have will clearly outperform an iPhone. I think iphone usage for the pics was mostly due to the ready availability at the right moment. With the 10.5 or 16-80, I am mostly well prepared except for times when it's high work load environment.

I would look into the D-lighting. I agree I need to spend more time on this.

I am member of adobe cc and shoot raw only, and do post processing quite a lot.

I have a sirui carbon flat type stand which I sometimes use in the centre pedestal on the flight deck. I have captured a few good time lapse. I will get a gorilla pod to try out.

I have used the GoPro but I don't like it, mostly because of the interface and short battery life.

I came back to the clubsnap forum after a long time, and I have found very good and positive helping response from all of clubsnappers

Thanks a lot everyone


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